Muzzle Brake

[Alfie]

JP muzzle brake on a previously threaded barrel. Do I lok-tite it? Do I torque it? Or do I just turn it one half turn past finger tight?

It's the black break so it should come with the crush washer not the peel washer. I haven't opened the package yet so I don't actually know yet.

[bigbrowndog]

loktite it, when it clocks correctly. I do it all the time, just don't use the green stuff, red is OK, but it will take heat to get it back off, blue might hold it just fine provided it doesn't get too hot.

trapr

[UW Mitch]

Not sure about the JP brake specifically, but one that I have (Miculek style) came with a split washer and a jam nut. You put the nut then the washer on, then spin the brake on until it's all the way down, then back it off until it's timed correctly (i.e. ports facing the way you want) then tighten the jam nut up to it. No loctite on mine - with the heat the barrel gets to anyway, I think it'd melt standard red loctite.

~Mitch

[StealthyBlagga]

I used red loctite plus a spring washer (the type used on the M16A1) to hold my stainless Cooley brake on my stainless barrel. It has held on just fine for the last 5 years. On another rifle I used blue loctite with the same type of spring washer, and iut also held OK for 2 years. I believe either will be OK... the key is probably the spring washer.

[gotm4]

I've indexed mine (no washer) and use torque and a small drop of Rocksett.

[redwoods]

I use no washer, the smith made it to index just right. He used red loc-tite. I had to heat it up with a torch to get it off. I just took it off and then put it back on, this time I used blue. I hope it holds.

Randy

[warpspeed]

I've used red in the past on a JP BC comp but my current one, a Surefire, is just torqued on, no glue or crush washer and seems to be OK this far.