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Reloading 12 ga. Shotgun for 3Gun


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I have found that the most reliable in everything I ever tried it in was Winchester cases, primers, wads and Powder. Heaps of data everywhere. The only thing I generally don't worry too much about is the shot. As long as it is good, round and fairl hard use whatever you can get at a good price.

I have also substituted Winchester Powder with other brands and had very few problems as long as you follow the appropriate load manual.

I currently load 1oz #4 shot at 1400fps in 2 3/4" cases, I use a Benelli M1 S90 Practical or a Camo 28" M1, depending on allowable mag capacity.

Have fun.  

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A/A hulls, best there is and a good supply.  What kind of loader are you using, MEC, PW, Dillon all make good ones.  If you are shooting steel, bigger shot is best #4 or so, 2 3/4 loads, 1 1/4 oz, Green Dot  powder give lots of data, since the targets are not moving (flying) I would opt for a slightly heavier load, 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 oz over the 1 oz and run the load at 1150 or 1200fps, 1400 brings nothing to the table except more and sharper recoil.  Use magnum shot, it is harder and more uniform.  If this doesn't get you going, let us know and we will give you more

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Thanks fellas.   I reload everything else, and used to reload shotgun for doves, quail, etc., but just gettin started for the 3 Gun loading.  Should've watched Bennie, Todd, Kelly and others on what they were shootin.  Here's one for ya-if the majority of the targets are stationary clays, do ya opt for larger(5,6) or smaller shot(8,9).  Ranges being between 10 and 25 yds.  I was thinkin smaller(alot more BB's) would be the way to go.  Need input-

JL

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without getting into a discussion of the aerodynamics of the shape of pellets, you need to shoot mod choke and nothing smaller than 7 1/5 ever, and if the steel is at 25 or farther, go to 4's or 2's.  Past 30 yds need to shoot #4 buck to insure the payload has the kinetic energy to take over the steel.  If you are shooting a full sized popper at 33 yds and you hold on the head and are off by 4" either side, it doesn't matter what you shoot, it is not going down.  Got to be sure of hitting the big part.

A big part of success depends on what your club will let you shoot, some will not ok the use of slugs, or pellet size bigger than #4 buck.  hope this helps

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Just re read your post... if clay targets are stationary at 25 yds, shoot 7.5's with Lt. Mod or Mod.  Remember it takes minimum of 3 hits while the clay is in the air to break or fracture it so it will break.  When it is stationary, you have neither rotational force nor forward momentum to help you break the clay, so you need more hits, my recommendation is tighter choke and nothing smaller than 7.5's.

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FWIW - The new Remington green STS hulls (the smooth, shiny ones) reload interchangably with Win AA hulls.  I literally didn't have to adjust a single thing on my MEC.  I used AA wads and all.  

The word on the street is that the STS hull will last substantially longer than AA hulls.  A guy showed me one that he claimed had 10 loadings on it.  It looked like it was maybe, only on it's second or third trip.  So far, all of mine have worked perfectly.  I haven't seen any tendency to blow out the corners of the crimp like the AA's typically do.  A nice feature.

Just in case you can't find those treasured AA hulls someday...

E

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my 2cents,

I reload pistol ammo because it is way cheaper and you can tune the load for accuracy and feel.

I do not see the same savings  or benefit in shotgun shells. If you shot 500 rds a week on the trap range, maybe.  But  1 box once a month at a 3 gun match?

Tell me  if I'm wrong..........please.

(becasue I'd love to buy more stuff!!!!)

(Edited by warpspeed at 9:31 pm on Sep. 25, 2002)

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You have to add in practice ammo!  Okay even then it is pretty tough to justify.  I suppose you could look at it from the "custom" load angle.  Getting exactly the load you want has some benefits.  My 1100 seems to do just fine with the Wal-Mart specials so I see your point.

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Good discussion! Agree that green Rem STS hulls are the way to go! Last forever. W/ my new Super X2, looked for the cleanest powder to keep the gas system reliable - even the "new" red dot was really dirty (graphite I suspect). Anyway, my beloved Hodg. straight Clays was too fast for my X2, but the INTERMEDIATE clays (International, I think but check and DOUBLE CHECK) was just the right powder: relaible, clean, and soft under 1 and 1/8 oz loads as per http://www.Hodgdon.com

NOTE: there are 3 or 4 loads for my combination of: 2 and 3/4 in STS hulls, WAA12 wads, 1 and 1/8 Oz of shot, CCI primer and (I think) International Clays powder - the different loads produce different velocities. My X2 would jam with the lightest load listed by Hodgdon so I moved to the intermediate velocity load and have done well so far. I did not like the way the CCI primers seated (they stuck out a tad which is potentially dangerous) and will only use those in practice.

Now , how about a reloading alternative to those expensive slugs??

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Reloading for 12 ga is a questionable venture at best these days.  I already have the gear and the components, so I still do it.  Where reloading really pays dividends is in 20 ga and the sub-gauges, where prices of $6-8 a box are still common.  

FWIW, I reload 1 1/8 oz AA/STS for just shy of $3 a box.  New, I pay about $5/box.  Barely worth the effort.  Not worth any effort at all, when I can buy equivalent quality Fiocchi or PMC shells at the range for all of $3.50 a box.  Once my components are gone, I'm going to negotiate a 10 case price with the range owner and forget it.  I've thought about resetting my press to run duck and goose loads, but the manufacturers have priced non-toxic shot such that it's not worth the effort there either.

The only good reason to reload for 12 ga anymore is b/c you need a load you can't get at a decent price commercially: i.e. slugs, ultra-light loads, ??...

E

(Edited by EricW at 8:03 am on Sep. 30, 2002)

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