mscott Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 It seems as simple as drilling and tapping an existing picatinny type gas block for a set screw. Is there anything I'm missing or not thinking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken hebert Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 No... But I can see where you are coming from and applaud your line of thinking. If you already owned one, then maybe, but the cost of my time versus buying one already made doesn't really work out. Take for instance two well known manufacturers products: The JP adjustable block is $69 at Brownells and the Midwes Industries non-adjustable is also $69. I'm sure a person might shop around and find components to end up with a cumulative total of less than the JP unit, but for me, and YMMV, the simplicity of ordering the right product and not having to tinker with it and possible destroying one wins out. That, and JP supports the sport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 I've done it and you're correct, it's pretty simple if you have the tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gundry Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Are you thinking of drilling it through the top? You'd have to drill through the gas tube also... If you could do it from the side (assuming there's enough room between the barrel and gas tube), you wouldn't have to mess with the tube at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 If you drill through the top, realise that at sometime the weakened gas tube will break and become jamed into the carrier key making any AR a single shot. I have seen several of the top drilled ones do this over the last few years. Drill it into the side and DON'T touch the gas tube! KurtM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 I plan to drill through the side like on the JP. I never really thought of drilling the top. I'm figuring an 8-32 or 10-32 set screw should work out fine. The plan was to buy a JP, but then figured why not try it myself. I'd rather spend $70 on ammo, but if it doesn't work out it's no big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SingleStacker45 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 (edited) I had a friend who is a machinist drill and tap my MI block ala JP's desaign and it worked beautifully. I did not want to attempt it due to having to drill through the angled surface on the side. Also, I did buy one of JP's low profile blocks for my other rifle and it is well worth the money but his railed model would not work for my sights. Mule Edited February 22, 2009 by SingleStacker45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 I had a friend who is a machinist drill and tap my MI block ala JP's desaign and it worked beautifully. I did not want to attempt it due to having to drill through the angled surface on the side.Mule Yeah, I had to go in with an endmill to spotface a flat surface to start the drill on the block I did, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 (edited) Made this happen on a buddies DPMS LR308 tonight and it turns out to be a piece of cake. Had to "mill" a flat spot with the dremel and needed a bottom tap (had to improvise and take a little off of my existing tap). I drilled just a little below center of the gas tube and tapped it to use an 8-32 stainless set screw. I'll need to buy a new tap, but now I can have an adjustable gas block for .35 cents each. Edited March 1, 2009 by mscott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripod Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 So how do these work. Do you drill different size holes in various set screws and trial and error which size orifice to use for bleeding off some of the gas up through the set screw. Or is the set screw left intact and just turned down into the gas channel to restrict the flow of gas through the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspian guy Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 So how do these work. Do you drill different size holes in various set screws and trial and error which size orifice to use for bleeding off some of the gas up through the set screw. Or is the set screw left intact and just turned down into the gas channel to restrict the flow of gas through the tube. The screw restricts the gas flow. Peter Adams FY-39604 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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