dwr461 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have a new 610-3 from S&W waiting for me. I'm going to replace the rear sight with a Weigand competition sight. They say that it is the same height as the factory. I want to put a fiber optic front sight in the weapon. What is the factory height of the sight? I'm also going to have the cylinder chamfered, a longer firing pin, and new springs done through out. Anything I'm missing? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have a new 610-3 from S&W waiting for me. I'm going to replace the rear sight with a Weigand competition sight. They say that it is the same height as the factory. I want to put a fiber optic front sight in the weapon. What is the factory height of the sight?I'm also going to have the cylinder chamfered, a longer firing pin, and new springs done through out. Anything I'm missing? Dave SDM 250 works fine for front sight, Longer firing pin will get you a lot of discussion here , any idea what springs you want to use? Chamfer-check, what about smoothing the action with a little stone work? I would also bob the hammer and check end shake and smooth rotation of the cylinder. As for the Weigand sight, I like Jack a lot and his products, but the rear sight was the answer to a question no one ever asked. Take a look at the LPA sight instead or if you can find a Millet many here like them for reasons unknown to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwr461 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 I'm going to have Lloyd Landry do all the work here. I assume he'll also stone out what needs smoothed. As far as springs I was going to order the Bang Inc springs the Miculek uses. SDM 250 will work in this firearm? This one has a spring and plunger and allows you to change the front sight very quickly and easily. I assume you'd want to bob the hammer to reduce the mass of it. Which would do what exactly? I thought that the longer firing pin will increase reliability with the lower weight springs. Have I been misinformed? Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I thought that the longer firing pin will increase reliability with the lower weight springs. Have I been misinformed? Yes, you have been misinformed. As long as the firing pin protrusion is within reasonable spec, the actual length of the pin is not going to make a difference in ignition reliability. The shape of the tip, the weight of the pin, the amount of firing pin spring tension bearing rearward upon it, and the surface smoothness of the pin--those are the actual factors that matter. I recently re-tested a current production C&S extended firing pin to see if it added any sort of benefit in terms of ignition reliability. I adjusted the mainspring tension way down to the point I was just starting to get very occasional misfires with my match ammo. Then, leaving all other things exactly equal, I replaced the factory pin (the "good" mid-production Ti .495" round-tip version) with the C&S pin, and there was absolutely no difference in reliability. The gun still misfired occasionally. No benefit. Think about this: If you take a nail that is 3/4" long and another nail that is 1" long, and you drive them partially into a board by hitting each of them on the nailhead with a single hammer blow of exactly identical energy, would you expect the longer nail to go deeper into the wood? Of course not. Case closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revchuck Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I'm going to have Lloyd Landry do all the work here. Son, you're taking your life in your hands! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray_N_Prey Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Well i just received a big O' box of revolvers back from Carmoney, listen to this guy - he knows his $%#@!!!!!! i'm trying to find a good front sight also, good luck on this one, wayyyyyy tooo many choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 You've been "Carmonized" And mikey's a physics major too Good luck with your new shooter dwr461, have done to it what you want and shoot the crap out of it. Some things work for some people and never for others. I needed the longer C&S firing pin to get reliable ignition shooting 40 S&W brass out of my 610, only change I did and now it works all the time. Could I have done something different ?? probably, but that 3 minute fix was good enough for me Remember....free advice off the internet is worth every penny you paid for it Seeya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Dave, do I need to make another trip back east to quiet you up again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwr461 Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Ok so I guess the longer firing pin is still the subject of much debate. I see both sides to the story. How about the springs which brand should I use? Why would I want to have the hammer bobbed? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Check with whoever's doing the work, many of us prefer to simply modify the factory springs as opposed to installing aftermarket springs. (No sense spending the money on a spring kit if that's the case here.) Bobbing the hammer is a popular option on competition (and defensive) guns, although even more benefit is generated by taking more weight off the hammer than a simple bob job can accomplish--there's a ton of discussion on here that relates to this topic. I'd recommend doing a search, or even just looking back through a couple months' worth of discussion topics here on the Revo forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Dave, do I need to make another trip back east to quiet you up again? Your welcome to mikey, I've got a bit more experiance since my 1st major match If the money holds out I'll be attending Area 7 (NY), maybe even Area 8 (PA) I did get a slot to the Nats and plan to go (again, if the $$ hold out) See you on range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Check with whoever's doing the work, many of us prefer to simply modify the factory springs as opposed to installing aftermarket springs. (No sense spending the money on a spring kit if that's the case here.) Bobbing the hammer is a popular option on competition (and defensive) guns, although even more benefit is generated by taking more weight off the hammer than a simple bob job can accomplish--there's a ton of discussion on here that relates to this topic. I'd recommend doing a search, or even just looking back through a couple months' worth of discussion topics here on the Revo forum. And because "hammer spurs are for Midnight Cowboys". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 For springs, I prefer to pick my own from Wolff rather than pre packaged kits. I have my own problems with my hands so custom is necessary. I prefer a ribbed spring over the factory and I bend it from there. As for bobbed hammers, i have one similar to how Mike does them which is how I learned when doing PPC guns in the early 80s. I really like the Randy hammer. I am kind of sorry I sold the spare I had. Probably won't order another due to the price but I will use the profile for the outside. I have had a bobbed hammer on my carry gun for a long time and still prefer not having a hammer spur. Also, I like the extended pins and have not had a problem with any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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