Hammer Question

[Tom E]

Has anyone thought of "Carmonizing" a hammer, but leaving the spur on? A regular claw hammer has all the weight at the end of

the lever, but is light weight from the fulcrum point almost to the top. It might be interesting to try that on a 617. Might work,

might not.

This gets into a polar moment of inertia thing. Weight farther from the pivot has exponentially more effect. The easiest to get a lighter pull with reliable ignition is my 617-1 which has the "old style" (heavier) forged hammer and the "old style" firing pin. It's near original, just has the spur trimmed slightly but it is still considerably heavier than an MIM hammer.

[4mike]

........ How is yours working? ......

higher reliability, lower hammer crash

(2,1lb hammer spring, 4,8lb total DA pull)

[AzShooter]

Interesting. That's the same thing I have heard from other folks, including Randy. There must be something different about the way rimfire ammo ignites, huh?

I had a Randy hammer in my 617 and never could get all my .22s to fire consistently. I tried every brand I could get my hands on.

Last week I put the original hammer back in. Now I can shoot it all day without a FTF.

[Carmoney]

Yeah, I spent most of this past weekend dinking around on 617s, and I could never figure out a way to get the trigger pull all that much lighter. I tried the Carmonized hammer to no avail. Then I tried jmax's technique of beveling the firing pin, and in my gun it made no perceptible difference. I've pretty much decided that with a 617, about all you can do is clean up the action, reduce the spring tensions a little, and call it good. You can improve quite a bit over the stock action, but a rimfire revolver is never going to feel like a top-notch competition action job on a centerfire wheel.

[Tom E]

Yeah, I spent most of this past weekend dinking around on 617s, and I could never figure out a way to get the trigger pull all that much lighter. I tried the Carmonized hammer to no avail. Then I tried jmax's technique of beveling the firing pin, and in my gun it made no perceptible difference. I've pretty much decided that with a 617, about all you can do is clean up the action, reduce the spring tensions a little, and call it good. You can improve quite a bit over the stock action, but a rimfire revolver is never going to feel like a top-notch competition action job on a centerfire wheel.

I tried the "chisel tip" firng pin mod also and couldn't find any difference. Same for a "pointier", more conical tip. No difference. 7 1/2 lb pull with a Wolff 11 lb rebound spring was/is the best I could do. My 625 is set just under 6 lbs so there isn't a big difference going from one to the other.

[LPatterson]

I went the easy way and put in the Bang Inc main spring that I was going to put in my 625 but sent the 625 to Mike instead.

[adweisbe]

Here is a twist for you. Ruger DA revolver hammers. Full or reduced? Does the transfer bar mechanism benefit from a hammer with more mass?

[Tom E]

Here is a twist for you. Ruger DA revolver hammers. Full or reduced? Does the transfer bar mechanism benefit from a hammer with more mass?

They benefit from being cut down also. BUT, before you cut on one check and see if you can buy one (hammer) from Ruger. You will probably find you can't buy a hammer from them and if you screw up or don't like the results you'll have to send the gun to them and they will replace EVERY modified/altered part and return your gun totally original. Makes you think twice about shooting (DA) Rugers. Quite a few important parts they won't sell you.