Smokecloud Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I have searched quite a bit and found a couple of short articles but have not found what im after. I ordered my Miculek comp from brownells and it didnt come with any instructions. Which way is up? I see that there is a slight difference in the location of the first baffles, im assuming that the baffle closest to the thread should be up to prevent muzzle rise. When i install my comp in this manner, I still have about 1/16" that i need a washer of some sort to be installed because of a gap between the face of the barrel and the back of the lock nut. Is a "peel washer" the way to go on this? Thanks for any input and sorry if this has been beat to death, but I have spent over an hour researching it and cant come up with any photos or clear instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 You are right! the rear baffle that is cut the most goes on top, that is the down thrust. I use peel washers for all comp instalation If I don't mill them to index to the barrel. Since your barrel is already bottoming out on the comp, use a peel washer. Your guess was the right one! KurtM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THM7 Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Is there any reason not to use a crush washer on a comp intall?....I hate peel washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerbender Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 If you are using the "lock nut" install the comp where you want it, hold it in place and turn the lock nut back into the comp to hold (lock) it in place. Unless you got real lucky or machine the bbl or comp to clock properly you will always have a gap between the bbl. shoulder and lock nut with this system. A peel washer would serve no purpose other than cosmetic to cover threads or fill gap. I have never tried to put A Miculek on without the lock nut. There would be one big stack of peel washers to fill in the space. IMHO Miculek should thread their comps a little deeper so they did not bottom out so early and or redesign to eliminate the lock nut and install with a crush washer or peel washer like everyone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerbender Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Is there any reason not to use a crush washer on a comp intall?....I hate peel washers. None at all unless it does not fit the contour of you bbl. or comp set up. Some like a more seamless look with peel washer and you also have more fore/aft wiggle room with the comp with a peel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokecloud Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Thanks for the replies. Yes, im using the supplied lock nut, but still had the indexing problem. yes, im trying to make it look cosmetically appealing. I think that its close enough, that I may be able to sand down a little on one side of the lock nut and make it index correctly. the brake with the lock nut will screw completely on, its just cockeyed, so to make it index correctly, i have to unscrew it 9/10 of a turn, leaving the big gap. If I sand down the lock nut, I believe I can make it index correctly with just a little elbow grease. Now, should I put any blue locktight on the threads or leave it alone? Im also installing a YHM free float 4 rail handguard, YHM flip up front sight and Eotech 552 with flip up covers. I have not decided on my rear BUIS yet, there is not a lot of options for same plane apertures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonT Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 (edited) When I installed mine, I had never done it before. I tried to use the lock nut but it left a gap between the comp and the barrel. Not sure if that was a problem but my thought was I didn't want a bunch of crap collecting in that gap that I couldn't clean. One crush washer didn't work either because the comp would bottom out on the barrel before touching the washer. So I used two and it was just right. Not sure if this is right or wrong but seems to work just fine. edited to add, I used red loctite. Sounds like your setup is about the same as mine. Don't forget the JP trigger Edited January 3, 2009 by DonT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 , so to make it index correctly, i have to unscrew it 9/10 of a turn, leaving the big gap. If I'm reading that right, it's clocked a bit clockwise (to the right) looking from the rear toward the muzzle? If so you might want to shoot it before you do anything else. Mine usually end up clocked that direction just a bit when I get them set so they track straight up and down. Probably not a 10th turn (36 degrees), but not straight up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastshooter03 Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Another common install with the miculek is to take the threads to the first port to shorten the OAL and use a peel washer. You need a decent setup and a tap to do it right though. You can drill a couple extra top holes too. Reasons for not using a crush washer would be: torque????? I've seen really heavy and really light crush washers. You're not supposed to use them more than once????? Not very flat sometimes. It may put more pressure on one side of the back of the comp. I only tell people to use crush washers with flash hiders with big thru holes. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokecloud Posted January 4, 2009 Author Share Posted January 4, 2009 DonT, What BUIS do you have on yours? Another concern is that my buis will lay down flat. A friend of mine has a YHM rear and when its folded, its still about 1/4" from laying down. This is because its for the flat top that sits a little lower than the piece right above the charging handle. Mine is flat all the way across, so I need to chose one that looks nice. Same plane aperture would be nice, but looking around, those seem to be scarce and rather expensive for what you get. I mostly want a peep that I can sight at 50 yds, and shoot out to several hundred, but I want a larger peep for low light conditions with the same POI. Our guns look pretty close. mine has the 16" heavy bbl, but no M4 cuts. My front sight just came in last night, it is the gas block replacment with rail bottom, all one piece, well the clamp on one from YHM. I have had this upper for several years, I had purchased it to shoot on my olympic arms because i was not happy with the way my shorty shot, this upper originally had a one piece free float DPMS handguard on it and I ran a variable power scope on the flat top. I had cut the front sight off myself and smoothed it up about 5 years ago when things werent as easy to find. I finally decided to put a 2nd gun together and scored a DPMS lower and 6 position collapsible stock. Im building it to shoot some 3 gun, but I may also use it at work. I have picked up a single point sling, but still need the attachment piece. A nice trigger is on my list, but not right now. I have to see how my Deparment handles us changing to AR's. They may not allow a JP if its adjustable. I have considered the non-adjustable JARD trigger, but am running out of money and may have to wait. I still need a light of some sort and the mount in my patrol vehicle may be the limiting factor there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonT Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 The front and rear sight are Troy Industries. This is an M&P15T so it came already setup, I just added the Eotech. Rear has a large and small peep. Yeah, you definately wouldn't want the trigger for work but JP also has a tactical trigger that might work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 When I had my 20" cut back to 18", my smith offered to index my Miculek brake. this eliminated the need for the lock nut or washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonT Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Much nicer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now