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Cylinder Chamfering


Matt Griffin

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Bear with me, but searching for "cylinder chamfering" or "chamfering tool" brings up every thread about reloading.

Question: What tool do I need to do a decent chamfering?

I'm embarrassed that I shot a nationals without knowing the difference, but I swear the gun I used isn't chamfered, comparing it to Carmoney's job. Heck, how do I even tell? I'm going by the subjective appearance of the chamber mouths above the star, Mike's seem longer, thus more slopey-ish.

Also, should you not chamfer the part of the cylinder that sits under the star? If not, why?

H.

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Hi.

Take a look in this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=cylinder

As far as the question of chamfering under the star, I have only "broken the edge" of the chamber under the star, no chamfering should be necessary.

Hey Mods, isn't time to make a sticky thread of all cylinder chamfering threads?

And a search tip, it is possible to search this forum only, not all forums on BE.... :cheers:

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I have a chamfering kit, but I always wind up using the dremel tool with a conical stone instead. I leave the extractor assembly in place, but I tilt the tool to the outside in order to avoid taking much material off the extractor. With a gentle swinging motion of the dremel stone, followed up by a cratex polishing tip, it's pretty quick and easy to get a nice chamfer. It does take a fairly steady hand, though......

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I have a chamfering kit, but I always wind up using the dremel tool with a conical stone instead. I leave the extractor assembly in place, but I tilt the tool to the outside in order to avoid taking much material off the extractor. With a gentle swinging motion of the dremel stone, followed up by a cratex polishing tip, it's pretty quick and easy to get a nice chamfer. It does take a fairly steady hand, though......

That's the way I've always done it and I have the chamfering kit too.

I was very nervous at first when I did my 686.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use the tool from Brownells. I remove the ejector (star) with an keyless chuck (removed from an old drill) and run the chamfering tool all the way in till it meets the portion of chamber mouth that was under the star. I break the edge on that section with the dremel. I also use the dremel to chamfer the star.

All the 625's Ive had a part was left hand thread on the ejector rod.

41mag

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Bear with me, but searching for "cylinder chamfering" or "chamfering tool" brings up every thread about reloading.

Question: What tool do I need to do a decent chamfering?

I'm embarrassed that I shot a nationals without knowing the difference, but I swear the gun I used isn't chamfered, comparing it to Carmoney's job. Heck, how do I even tell? I'm going by the subjective appearance of the chamber mouths above the star, Mike's seem longer, thus more slopey-ish.

Also, should you not chamfer the part of the cylinder that sits under the star? If not, why?

H.

I don't see the need for much more then breaking the edge here so that it blends just a tad better with the chamfer on the star.

I also see this as the factory accepted limit for non support to the cartridge case. Removing more material there is reducing case support to the cartridge.

41mag

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I have a a couple of 625-8 that will not accept my Brownells chamfering tool. I ordered a finish reamer and reamed the cylinders until the reamer bottomed out in the cylinder. The chamfering tool still won't drop far enough into the cylinder to cut the chamfer.

What would be the next step to get the cylinders large enough for the chamfering tool to work?

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I had issues getting the Brownells pilot in my 625-3 and a friends 625-8. I had to turn it down for both if them. That's the only thing that's kept me from offering it as a service, if I have to keep customizing pilots for every dang cylinder I do, it won't ever be worth the hassle.

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