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686 Conversion


SIXXgun

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Do we know for sure that the 6 to 7 shot conversion works?I was thinking about putting a 7 shot Ti cylinder in an older,much abused 586 to use as an ICORE limited gun.I know I'd be giving up a round,but I just don't seem to be able to make an N-frame go fast AND accurate at the same time.Also,this gun needs everything anyway,so any extra dough would be just for the cylinder.

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Can a 6 shot 686 be converted to an 8 shot? Specifically the 686 competitor model. The one with the big heavy Duke Nukem' barrel?

As others have posted, a 7 shot yes but not an 8 shot.

I can't remember but I think they made an 8 shot N frame 627 in that barrel config, small numbers (100 units maybe)

so it's price would be a tad high I would think.

For those looking to upgrade a 586 to a 7 shot you might want to do some measuring, Tom at moonclips.com

offers 2 sizes of clips for older 6 shot L frames so it looks like the BC of the cylinders is different.

I tried to measure it once and saw no real difference but when I tried the clips for the newer serial no.

guns in my older 586 they did hang up.

I have 2 6 shot 686's that work with either a 7 shot cylinder or 6 shot so the conversion works on the newer/higher serial

number guns.

Don't see too many $300 7 shots around here in the P.R. of MA <_<

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Can a 6 shot 686 be converted to an 8 shot? Specifically the 686 competitor model. The one with the big heavy Duke Nukem' barrel?

All you have to do is change the cylinder and hand to make a 7 shooter. Maybe adjust the barrel/cylinder gap. The 686 cannot be made into

an 8 shooter.

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Are the 8 shot 686's built on a different frame size than the 6/7 shot pistols?

JM

The 8 shot guns are 627s not 686s. There is no 8 shot 686. A 686 is an L frame, a 627 is an N frame. N frame is the next size bigger than

L frame. The N frame guns are what the 625 .45, 629 .44 and 657 .41 are built on. There is just enough room on a N frame cylinder to

squeeze in 8 rounds of .357 or .38 Super. All the other calibers are 6 shots only

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I believe member High Velocity has enterchangable 6 and 7 shot cylinders in his 686.?.? Mike, I have considered putting the Ti cyl into a carry gun mainly to bring the weight down :ph34r: . Let us know how it turns out.

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Can a 6 shot 686 be converted to an 8 shot? Specifically the 686 competitor model. The one with the big heavy Duke Nukem' barrel?

As others have posted, a 7 shot yes but not an 8 shot.

I can't remember but I think they made an 8 shot N frame 627 in that barrel config, small numbers (100 units maybe)

so it's price would be a tad high I would think.

For those looking to upgrade a 586 to a 7 shot you might want to do some measuring, Tom at moonclips.com

offers 2 sizes of clips for older 6 shot L frames so it looks like the BC of the cylinders is different.

I tried to measure it once and saw no real difference but when I tried the clips for the newer serial no.

guns in my older 586 they did hang up.

I have 2 6 shot 686's that work with either a 7 shot cylinder or 6 shot so the conversion works on the newer/higher serial

number guns.

Don't see too many $300 7 shots around here in the P.R. of MA <_<

Try Pennsylvania then...I bought my 686 plus 7-shot for $305.00 already moon clipped and action job at a local gun shop. My 625 for $350.00. Couldn't find a deal on the 627...had to buy that new.

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I don't believe that a 686 can be made into an eight-shot .38/.357...but a six-shot 686 CAN BE converted to a seven-shot "Plus", if you want to go THAT route...FWIW....mikey357

Exactly. The 686 is the L frame, and when you drill that cylinder to the max you can get 7 charge holes (686 plus). The eight shot 627 guns are built with the larger N frame.

Edited by bountyhunter
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Try Pennsylvania then...I bought my 686 plus 7-shot for $305.00 already moon clipped and action job at a local gun shop. My 625 for $350.00. Couldn't find a deal on the 627...had to buy that new.

Where is that shop.....It would be worth the flights for me to shop there......... :unsure:

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The "Conversion" of a six-shot 686 to a seven-shot 686 "Plus" is a lil' more involved than JUST a cylinder swap...SOMETIMES...

I know that the seven-shot 686 "Plus" cylinders will work within the same "Dash Number" on their capacity-challenged bretheren...in other words, a seven-shot cylinder from a 686 "Plus" dash four will work on a six-shot 686-4...provided you "Fit" it properly, of course...B/C gap, headspace and "Timing"...

IIRC, the -5 and -6 cylinders are pretty much the same, but won't work on the earlier -4 guns...don't know about the -3 and earlier guns...but HERE is something INTERESTING...I have an EARLY 686-4--a SQUARE-BUTT gun, with the "Old Style" cylinder, with the extractor locating pins...I also have a 686-4 SEVEN-shooter...and the cylinders will INTERCHANGE...with NO "Fitting" necessary...kinda' SERENDIPITOUS, but true...headspace, B/C gap and timing are all "Okay" with either cylinder in either gun...I wouldn't COUNT ON that happening, but it DOES occur...SOMETIMES...FWIW....mikey357

Edited by mikey357
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...well, if you throw enough $$$ at a problem, MOST of the time you can get it resolved to your "Satisfaction"...having said that, I think that there would be some fairly extensive machine work required to get the seven-shot "Ti" cylinder to fit/work in a 686-3 or earlier.

IF I wanted to do something like that, I'd check with Mark Hartshorne at Pinnacle High Performance in PA or Randy Lee at Apex Tactical in Kommiefornia...they seem to have about as much experience with the "Ti" cylinders as anyone I know of, and both have EXCELLENT reputations...let us know what you decide to do!....mikey357

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I've got a (stainless?) 7 shot cylinder coming from a fellow forum member(thanks again Bubber!).I should be able to at least mock it up in this 586-1 to see whats what.Expect a full report (and maybe some pics).This forum could use a project gun thread anyway,right?

Edited by kframe_mike
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Well,the cylinder arrived yesterday and it looks like it will work,as best as I can tell.The only way I have to check bore to cylinder alignment is with a white strip of paper,flashlight,and calibrated eyeball,but it looks good.I had to thin the hand some to get it to time up.Its not perfect yet,but would go bang as is.Actually I think I'm going to get another hand for it as the one thats in there looks like it has the nose damaged .Someone Bogarted it with the action cocked me thinks(ouch!).Also,maybe the 7 shot hand is different?I'll also have to get a .004 shim to clean up a little endshake.When I do that though,I 'll be looking at close to .010 B/C gap,and I think thats pushing it(?).I guess I'll cross that bridge when i get there.-Mike

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Well,the cylinder arrived yesterday and it looks like it will work,as best as I can tell.The only way I have to check bore to cylinder alignment is with a white strip of paper,flashlight,and calibrated eyeball,but it looks good.I had to thin the hand some to get it to time up.Its not perfect yet,but would go bang as is.Actually I think I'm going to get another hand for it as the one thats in there looks like it has the nose damaged .Someone Bogarted it with the action cocked me thinks(ouch!).Also,maybe the 7 shot hand is different?I'll also have to get a .004 shim to clean up a little endshake.When I do that though,I 'll be looking at close to .010 B/C gap,and I think thats pushing it(?).I guess I'll cross that bridge when i get there.-Mike

Hi Mike-

The 7 shot hand is thinner on the nose part where it pushes on the ratchets. You can file down a regular hand with a diamond file

using the file and try method. Go a little at a time because the difference between too much and not enough is 1 to 2 thousandths.

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Thanks for the info Toolguy.You're not kidding about the diamond file either.Thats how the new one is going in,I guarantee.I stoned on the original one for a couple of hours before it would fit.Damn those hands are hard.-mike

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Thanks for the info Toolguy.You're not kidding about the diamond file either.Thats how the new one is going in,I guarantee.I stoned on the original one for a couple of hours before it would fit.Damn those hands are hard.-mike

For the Barrel/Cylinder gap I like .003 to .004 for jacketed bullets only or .005 to .006 for lead or jacketed. Lead bullets need a wider gap.

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Thanks for the info Toolguy.You're not kidding about the diamond file either.Thats how the new one is going in,I guarantee.I stoned on the original one for a couple of hours before it would fit.Damn those hands are hard.-mike

For the Barrel/Cylinder gap I like .003 to .004 for jacketed bullets only or .005 to .006 for lead or jacketed. Lead bullets need a wider gap.

I'm shooting a 686 using Speer moly-coated lead, and the B/C gap is in the .003 to .004 range, without any major problems that I know of. Why to you say a .005 to .006 gap is needed?

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