IDPA guy

[loop]

I wanted to shoot one more IDPA match with my .45 before I ordered parts. I did and ordered from Henning late Tuesday night. Parts arrived Friday. Thanks for great service.

Got the aluminum base pads for the mags and was surprised to find I actually have a screwdriver that fit that little tiny Allen bolt.

But, ended up with a couple more questions. The extra long firing pin and reduced power spring - what effect does removing the firing pin safety plunger and spring have in terms of safety? Is there something I should watch out for? I've never done that before on purpose. It is IDPA and it is supposed to be what you'd carry on the street.

Should I lube the firing pin and spring? They're already in the gun with a light coat of Tetra grease, but was the grease a good idea? Do I need to clean the firing pin channel when I field strip the gun? Does removal of the safety plunger require more frequent cleaning along its channel?

The 12-pound reduced-power recoil spring was labeled as increased power for a 9mm longslide. Did I order the right thing? (Again, already in the gun.)

I'm getting an SD of 13 for a 788 for a 230-grain, LRN bullet over 4.0 grains of Bullseye. Is that appropriate for that spring?

I hope to test fire Saturday to check new parts. Trigger seems a little smoother. Slide racks more smoothly, but not noticeably easier.

I'd like to put a fiber optic sight on the front, but my low-end gun has the integral front sight. Local smith is unsure a dovetail can be cut into Wonderfinish. Will standard carbide bits cut dovetail into slide? Or, am I kind of kidding myself? Should I just go ahead and save long-run money and look to upgrade?

I really like this gun. I've shot the same Kimber and Sig in IDPA for years, but this pistol just outperforms them both by a mile. I picked this up at a gun show because it was cheap ($300) and am still stunned by its performance and capability.

Last match finished fourth. My fault not the gun's. I screwed up a tactical reload so badly it was ridiculous and then found out it didn't even have to be tactical....

Then got an FTDR for not paying attention to the briefing and going to the wrong station. Then blew a shot because I thought the hammer should have dropped in DA, so I let off and hadn't fired a shot (feeling really dumb). Even so, was right on the tail of the top three with a big gap behind us.

I really appreciate the feedback I've gotten here. Thanks very much to all.

[BritinUSA]

I can't speak to all your questions but one; There is no need to lube the firing pin and spring. In fact it can cause mis-fires if that lube makes it's way to the front of the firing pin it could cause a failure to ignite the primer. The firing pin channel should be clean and dry. Removing the safety block will not require extra cleaning.

[Mo Hepworth]

I would like to add, that the best thing to do if you intend on running the OEM firing pin, is to smooth and polish it up. The FPB may need some TLC, as I found it ruff....

OR, run a Henning firing pin.

[ChuckS]

Loop,

Welcome to the forum! If you are going to be using that gun for IDPA better rethink removing any safety device:

From Appendix 1

1. Non-IDPA-Legal Modifications for ALL Divisions

The following modifications are NOT ALLOWED IN ANY

DIVISION unless otherwise specifically mentioned.

E. Disconnection or disabling of any safety device on any gun.

Later,

Chuck

[Neomet]

+1 on what Brit said. Lube in the firing pin channel causes stiction which causes FTFs which causes proliferative use of language which would make a Bangkok hooker blush.

Don't ask how I know.

[loop]

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

I've enjoyed reading the forum despite rarely posting.

I installed Henning's extra long firing pin and put a little grease on the point where the reduced-power spring contacts the pin because it felt really rough when it was dry. It's easy enough to remove it and clean it so I'll do that ASAP. I just hate it when metal-on-metal feels rough.

That brings up another question though. The firing pin I took out was very greasy feeling. I doubt it was all from powder residue. Does the factory use some kind of lube, perhaps graphite or some other dry lube, on the firing pin?

It hadn't occurred to me that IDPA rules would be an issue with the firing pin. But, it is easy enough to change. I also have a compact-poly .45 that I can put the pin in if it isn't legal for competition.

The compact has been another pleasant surprise. I have three different accuracy loads for .45 that I've tailored to suit my guns. The compact will shoot two-inch, 20-yard groups with two of the three loads. The third load looks like it came out of a shotgun, but none of my other .45s will shoot two of the loads accurately. The compact has taken over as my carry gun because it is so accurate, reliable and lightweight.

I installed the parts I got from Henning and shot the gun yesterday. Those were the firing pin and spring, a reduced-power recoil spring and aluminum base plates for the mags. The gun has functioned 100 percent since I got it, but it felt better with those minor changes. Shot a hair under a 2-inch group at 20 yards. Will practice a little and shoot another match before I make additional modifications.

Funny thing is both Tanfoglios shoot 2-inches or under at 20 yards, but the full-size steel model is dead on with a target sight picture and the compact is dead center with a combat sight picture. Both really like a 230-grain LRN over 4.0 grains of Bullseye.

[sinnsyk]

firing pin hole, spring and pin should be dry. I clean out the slide with brake cleaner spray (use glasses!). Can use q-tips to swab out leftover residue. No lube, EVER ;-)

A gunsmith can recut your slide for a front or side dovetail cut. Use a carbide endmill cutter first and then run the dovetail cutter. Canyon creek custom can do this for you if you cant find anyone local.

I'm doing an aftermarket 0.090" with a dot soon.

[loop]

I must have instinctively left the firing pin and spring dry because I took them out today to wipe off any lube and they were dry as a bone.

Thanks for the really fast service on my parts, Henning. Very pleased with all of them. Shot it Saturday with all the parts installed and performance was excellent. Really like the feel of the aluminum mag base plates.

Local smith says that if carbide will cut the slide he can do it. I'll wait for you to come out with your front sight. Meanwhile I'll make do with my single drop of highway reflective striping paint for a front sight. Actually a pretty nice, bright yellow front sight that gathers light quite well for paint.

Thanks to all for the help.

One more question.

The slide stop/release on my poly .45 doesn't do anything either manually or with the mag follower. The stop is about an 1/8 of an inch short of contacting the follower. But, even when I try to engage the stop to the slide by hand it won't hold. I took the slide stop out of my steel frame and tried it in the poly and it is exactly the same. The one from the poly works perfectly in the steel frame.

The trouble seems to be in the width of the poly frame. Even though the stop clicks into place correctly the stop doesn't seem to line up with the frame. Then there is the gap to the follower to consider. I thought of welding an extension to the stop to contact the follower, but that doesn't cure the stop block from aligning with the notch in the slide.

Any thoughts or suggestions?