Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

So I got really bored at work today....


kframe_mike

Recommended Posts

Boredom + tools = another bobbed Smith hammer!It certainly isn't as pretty as one of Mike's,and I could probably shave a bit more weight off of it though.I think it turned out pretty good for my first one.-Mike

post-13823-1204927827.jpg

post-13823-1204927856.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work. I had a few minutes the other day so I chamfered my 2.5"K's cylinder. Used a pointed stone in the Foredom and finished it off with a Kratex bob. It makes a noticeable difference on loading speed with the comp3's.

Cool what you can do with the right tools.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Counterfeit Carmonized hammers are popping up everywhere these days!!!! ;)

(Just kidding--as Randy Lee once said about my efforts:"Nice whittling!)

You're a trend setter Mike!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Counterfeit Carmonized hammers are popping up everywhere these days!!!! ;)

(Just kidding--as Randy Lee once said about my efforts:"Nice whittling!)

You're a trend setter Mike!

OK, full disclosure: "Carmonizing" a revolver hammer is not exactly a new concept. Check out the photo below from the 3rd Edition Law Enforcement Handgun Digest. This picture was taken about 30 years ago!

(The work shown was done by retired USAF gunsmith Bob Day, who operated his shop in San Antonio back in the day.)

post-4033-1205067071.jpg

Edited by Carmoney
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Counterfeit Carmonized hammers are popping up everywhere these days!!!! ;)

(Just kidding--as Randy Lee once said about my efforts:"Nice whittling!)

You're a trend setter Mike!

OK, full disclosure: "Carmonizing" a revolver hammer is not exactly a new concept. Check out the photo below from the 3rd Edition Law Enforcement Handgun Digest. This picture was taken about 30 years ago!

(The work shown was done by retired USAF gunsmith Bob Day, who operated his shop in San Antonio back in the day.)

Wow that is interesting. I knew it had been around for a while but I didn't know it had been that long.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could somebody please tell me what is to be gained by grinding away that much of the hammer? Is this all in the interest of obtaining the very lightest trigger pull possible? I just saw and dry fired a 625 that had been Carmonized and I readily admit it was the lightest trigger pull I'd ever experienced with nothing else even close. But at the expense of a large gaping cavern going into the action? I just acquired two unfired 625-4s and already cut the spur off one which will be used for full time concealed carry, but I remove the spur only. The spur on the other will eventually go also. I have decided that I am going to keep the springs full strength (largely due to the unavailability of Federal primers) and I was surprised that I actually like the gun with the heavy stock springs. I have 100% reliability with Winchester and CCI primers and there is no need to re-seat them after they exit the 650. So it looks like I am finally coming full circle. As long as the action is smooth, I can tolerate the stiff springs quite well. And as I'm on a roll, I am also reconsidering my hatred of rubber grips and smooth triggers. That combination has suddenly started working for me and I think the heavy springs might have something to do with it.

Dave Sinko

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, Dave........I guess I would suggest that you experiment with a revolver with a really good, light action and see if it makes a positive difference in your shooting. I know this--a really nice, light action sure creates a hell of an improvement for most people. From what I have seen after doing a whole bunch of 625s this way for a lot of different people, as long as the action is smooth and the trigger rebound stays nice and lively, a lighter DA pull is always better. You gotta try it.

The skeletonized hammer contributes to the lightening effort, but it's an incremental thing. The real key is finding and locking in the gun's threshold for 100% reliability with well-seated Federal primers. Federal primers are the only kind I buy, and I have had no problem locating them in my area, even through the recent shortage. I also don't hesitate to buy full sleeves of primers when I need them, and I keep myself well-stocked at all times.

The "large gaping cavern" created by the cut-down hammer is a matter of aesthetics. I'm sure some of the collector purists would take one look and pronounce it butchery. But people tell me all the time the Carmonized hammers look really cool--so I guess it's a matter of personal taste. Plus, as the old expression goes--"Beauty is as beauty does." There certainly is no functional problem with the "gaping cavern"--some have worried about stuff getting inside the action and causing a problem--but to my knowledge, nobody has ever had that actually happen. In any event the opening makes it easy to douche out the action with brake cleaner or Dunk-It every now and again, which is not a bad thing. I try to minimize disassembling my revolvers--once I have everything tuned and adjusted, I don't really like to take off the side plate unless there is a problem that needs fixing (which is a pretty rare event). Anyway, I don't see any real downside or expense to the skeletonized hammer, and I know there is an upside in terms of performance.

Now just to be clear, Dave--all of this pertains to competition guns only. I'm not advocating radically lightened actions on carry/defensive guns. I also use revolvers in a defensive capacity (although not N-frames in my case), and my defense guns are de-spurred and DA-only, but otherwise essentially stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well,I got to shoot it a little this weekend,and I'm really digging the fast lock time!It seems to have shrunk my DA groups a bit.Also,I'm thinking at its current spring weight,it'd set off any primer known to man.I'm at a crossroad now though.Do I play with the strain screw and take a little pull weight off?Or do I leave it as is and enjoy the screaming-fast lock time and ability to use any primer?Decisions decisions,its all fun though.-Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you decide to lighten up the DA pull, my recommendation is to adjust your mainspring tension in such a way that leaves your strain screw fully tightened. You can do this by re-arching the spring, or shortening the strain screw, or a combination of both. Just don't leave the strain screw loosened--even with loctite, this is asking for trouble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, now that you mention it the lock time of that Carmonized hammer/action job made the gun feel altogether different. I thought it kind of felt like a Para LDA. Now that I finally have three 625s I will have to decide if I want my match gun to feel significantly different than the others. I just don't know yet. Something to think about.

Dave Sinko

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, now that you mention it the lock time of that Carmonized hammer/action job made the gun feel altogether different. I thought it kind of felt like a Para LDA.

Hmmm....interesting comparison. I own one Para LDA, and it has a pretty nice DA pull, although I find it stacks up somewhat when you're getting toward the end of the DA trigger pull, almost like a Python action. In my view, a good revolver action should feel pretty much even throughout the trigger curve, and maybe even become a little lighter toward the end of the DA pull after the cylinder stop engages the notch. This contributes to a great surprise let-off in DA mode, which I think is a great advantage to shooting a revolver. However, I have experienced a custom LDA trigger pull (done by NE gunsmith and BE forum regular Jim Anglin) that was pretty frickin' awesome, and I think the LDA platform is an interesting concept.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

What's the appropriate tool for the first cut ?

I want a "straight" job

I found today this hammer for 30 Euro and I'm ready to Carmonized it my-self

But I hope don't make some mistakes..it' s the first time

I find that a cut off wheel is the easiest way to start. A reinforced but thin wheel works well and lasts.

EZ406.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...