sinnsyk Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 For those of you with DA pistols who have installed my X-Long Firing Pin (large frame) and the Wolff 13lb hammer spring... Looking more closely at the Stock DA tonite I realized it may be real easy not to pull the trigger all the way back in the heat of the fire... which could cause occasional light strikes. I know how much the light strikes have been an issue with SA guns. In all the instances I've talked to people about it, it has been due to adjusting the over-travel screw too tight. The sear HAS to clear the hammer's half-cock. With a margin. I know how tempting it is to have 0 movement in the trigger, but to be reliable you have to give the trigger some movement after the hammer has released. The same goes for DA and because of the long trigger movement in DA guns it can be easy not have different trigger movements from shot to shot. On the trigger i worked on tonite, I reudced the half-cock to almost nothing with a stone. I left a small hook for safety reasons, but it drastically reduced the chances for a slight catch of the half-cock which of course... will slow the hammer down and cause light strikes. Not to say 100% this is always the reason, but if you have experienced this, look into this and if you wish, gimme me a call or post. I'm interested in getting to the bottom of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snaps Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Ive noticed this on my hc custom when i was fiddling with my trigger and adjusted the overtravel screw too far out. Light strikes were more evident on small rifle primers. The combo of using a heavier hammer spring and keeping just a little over travel on the trigger sorted out the problem for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I have had only a couple light strikes with my Stock II. I think they were all while in SA mode as well. but can't be 100% sure on that. The only problem I have every now and then is a failure to eject. it'll clear almost all the way, not even a stovepipe really, and it'll have fed the next round almost all the way in, but that extracted case will just be hanging up. I've had it happen while chronographing and the FTE round chrono'd the same or near the same as previous and consequent rounds. solve that one for me and I'll be truly happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snaps Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I have had only a couple light strikes with my Stock II. I think they were all while in SA mode as well. but can't be 100% sure on that. The only problem I have every now and then is a failure to eject. it'll clear almost all the way, not even a stovepipe really, and it'll have fed the next round almost all the way in, but that extracted case will just be hanging up. I've had it happen while chronographing and the FTE round chrono'd the same or near the same as previous and consequent rounds. solve that one for me and I'll be truly happy. the first thing id be looking at is your extractor and making sure its nice and clean and the main spring might be taking a battering if you are using something too light, but if you have already done that id check if the gun isnt firing out of battery it might be a worn out sear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 pretty new gun. springs are all good, brand new extractor in there now too. still pops up on occasion. doubt it's the sear and an out of battery situation when I was doing slow deliberate fire over the chrono. thanks for the ideas though, things to keep an eye on for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hal1955 Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I have had only a couple light strikes with my Stock II. I think they were all while in SA mode as well. but can't be 100% sure on that. The only problem I have every now and then is a failure to eject. it'll clear almost all the way, not even a stovepipe really, and it'll have fed the next round almost all the way in, but that extracted case will just be hanging up. I've had it happen while chronographing and the FTE round chrono'd the same or near the same as previous and consequent rounds. solve that one for me and I'll be truly happy. I've had the same fte problems with my Stock II at 130 pf. The chamber in my gun was a little rough. When I tried to insert spent cases into the chamber some of them would hang up. So I cleaned the chamber up a bit and fired about 400 rounds and still had a few fte's, but not as many. The spent cases went into the chamber with no hangups so I bumped up the load to 135 pf and it runs well now, about 2000 rounds with no fte's. Re: light strikes. I kept having light strikes till I removed the over travel screw. Both sets of hammer hooks would rub against the bottom of the sear from time to time, slowing the hammer down I think. I haven't had a light strike since I removed the screw. I want to shoot the gun in Production and I'm not sure if lowering the hooks would be production friendly so I just removed the over travel screw for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 hah, removing the screw probably isn't PD legal either! it fell out I'm at around 7000 rounds through this gun right now, so if it's a power factor thing I guess I could bump it up a bit to make sure I get good extraction/ejection. But I am already sitting slightly above recommended max for Tightgroup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I agree with Henning on this one. Of every gun I've looked at so far with this problem, one was crappy loads with high primers and all the rest were over travel screw related. Most people tend to set these too close no matter what brand of gun (STand SV guns included) they are shooting, and it just leads to problems. A little more play won't affect your triggering in a negative way, but will enhance reliabilty. When you hold the hammer back with your thumb and relase the sear gently as you ease the hammer forward, you should not feel or see the hammer hooks forcing their way past the sear. It should release cleanly, and if it does this it will clear the half cock notch no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 fired 70rds at a Bullseye practice night (20yrds, accuracy practice for me)....no problems....using all OEM parts. I will not clean it, and shoot another 160rds this tuesday. I have let out my OT screw to the point it is almost out on the trigger face. My sear edge looks a little rounded. I polished it a bit, and may have removed a little off the edge accidentally, but I think FPB being some damn cheap can have negative effects on the firing pin travel...it appears to be stamped part, and needed some TLC as it had almost sharp edge right up it. Funny thing, I shot 30rds Montana gold and 40rds Speer plated at 147gr with similiar loads....the SPeer plated was actually grouping better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 hey convienently enough I am now setup to work on Tanfoglio parts................ sears and hammers etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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