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Chamfering a recessed cylinder


Brewski

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Howdy, I’m playing around with a 66-1 (not pinned, but recessed) to use as an IDPA gun. I’m currently using a GP-100, with a chamfered cylinder – looks like the guy who did it used a hand file and then smoothed it up with maybe a dremel? In any event, it works fine. Well now…the 66-1 is hell to use with a speed loader, so I figure why not try my hand at chamfering? However, with a recessed cylinder, to achieve the proper angle with a file or dremel grinding stone will cause me to run into the top of the cylinder recess. How does someone chamfer a recessed cylinder?

Edited by Brewski
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This might sound kind of dumb,but make sure your speedloaders aren't interfering with your grips,especially with a k-frame.I didn't believe it either until someone showed me!The recesses in my 19 seem to actually help out a little as is.-Mike

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I’m currently using a GP-100, with a chamfered cylinder – looks like the guy who did it used a hand file and then smoothed it up with maybe a dremel?

I hope you're not implying that a Dremel chamfer job equals a botch job. Because that would not be true. A skillful rotary practitioner can do an excellent--and quite attractive--job of chamfering the charge holes with a Dremel, as long as the correct bits are selected and used in proper order.

(I'll grant you there is no place for hand files when it comes to chamfering a cylinder.....)

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I’m currently using a GP-100, with a chamfered cylinder – looks like the guy who did it used a hand file and then smoothed it up with maybe a dremel?

I hope you're not implying that a Dremel chamfer job equals a botch job. Because that would not be true. A skillful rotary practitioner can do an excellent--and quite attractive--job of chamfering the charge holes with a Dremel, as long as the correct bits are selected and used in proper order.

(I'll grant you there is no place for hand files when it comes to chamfering a cylinder.....)

No disrespect stated or implied – the Dremel is my friend As I said, the chamfer job on the GP-100 works just fine. I am just puzzled how one would chamfer a recessed cylinder without a jig and some purpose made grinders/ cutters.

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I am just puzzled how one would chamfer a recessed cylinder without a jig and some purpose made grinders/ cutters.

You just need a cutter with the proper OD. You could reduce the OD by spinning the cutter in a drill motor and running it against a grinding wheel. The surface you're removing metal from isn't critical.

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I use a 4" 66-1 for IDPA and a 2.5" for carry. These were both duty guns and have seen a lot of use over the years. Some of the mods I have made are:

1. Before the thumb piece was redesigned, mine were cut to clear speed loaders now I use the SDM.

2. Night Sights for both Meprolights work great.

3. Slight chamfer on cylinders. All I did was clean off the sharp edges. These guns were made in the late 60's early 70's and the machining was good but not great. Lots of sharp edges. To chamfer I use a case mouth reamer for 38spl. It is the right size, does what you need, and is easy to control.

4. Bobbed hammer on the 2.5" and duty action on both so they are smooth and reliable for any ammunition or situation.

5. Grips that clear speed loaders. I have found with recessed cylinders that Comp I or Comp II loaders work best for me.

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Foredom, boys, Foredom. Makes a Dremel look like a toy. :rolleyes:

Well the dremel and air motors are for dressing up the work after you finish on your mill and lathe. :lol:

I know you al have a mill and lathe at home. :ph34r:

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I use a 4" 66-1 for IDPA and a 2.5" for carry. These were both duty guns and have seen a lot of use over the years. Some of the mods I have made are:

1. Before the thumb piece was redesigned, mine were cut to clear speed loaders now I use the SDM.

2. Night Sights for both Meprolights work great.

3. Slight chamfer on cylinders. All I did was clean off the sharp edges. These guns were made in the late 60's early 70's and the machining was good but not great. Lots of sharp edges. To chamfer I use a case mouth reamer for 38spl. It is the right size, does what you need, and is easy to control.

4. Bobbed hammer on the 2.5" and duty action on both so they are smooth and reliable for any ammunition or situation.

5. Grips that clear speed loaders. I have found with recessed cylinders that Comp I or Comp II loaders work best for me.

Thanks Round Gun Shooter! That is exactly the info I was looking for.

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  • 3 years later...

Now that is funny - this thread is a blast from the past. To answer my own question, I simply ordered a chamfer cutter from Brownells and had at it. The interesting thing is that you cut a chamfer into the recess as you cut into the actual charge hole - in effect you cut a big-ass funnel for the rounds to go into on their way to the charge holes. Very fast reloads. The drawback, as Bubber has pointed out is that the recess traps crap that would normally fall away from an unrecessed cylinder - leaving you with a high round and a cylinder that won't close. Ah well - live, shoot and learn :blush: .

Edited by Brewski
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