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Do It Yourself Glock Trigger Jobs


Deaf Smith

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Do any of you know how, or know a web page that shows how, to polish the glock trigger internals for a better pull? I'm trying to make a better pull than the stock trigger without going to a 3 1/2 lb connector (might to that to!)

Thanks in advance!

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Do a search here and on Glocktalk.com and you will find lots of info - much of it is wrong. As one example, several sites suggest using a dremel tool to polish the sides of the trigger bar where it contacts the connector. Right idea, wrong tool. To ensure a flat smooth surface, use a fine stone as can be found in Brownells, not a dremel which will leave an uneven surface. There are many examples of sketchy info online - and a few good sources too.

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'Dremelling the Glock' has a lot of ideas that are do-able but not really helpful. In addition to being very risky. Here's 2 helpful sites:

http://limitedgun1.bei.t-online.de/

and

http://www.alpharubicon.com/mrpoyz/glock/

2nd one uses Flitz and Q-tips but the dremel felt wheel is better. Use the Flitz WET, don't let it dry. It's harder than it looks to COMPLETELY polish the working surface of the disconnector. Leave the take-down latch alone.

What helped me get under 3lb and smooth:

-- the above sites. polish the safety plunger & the trigger bar that hits it

-- 4lb wolff striker spring

-- extra pwr trigger bar spring

-- one coil off the safety plunger spring (I won't try more)

-- thin coat of lube on moving parts, including trigger pin (the grooved one)

-- best results with Slide Glide and Chip McCormick lube

No ignition problems if you occasionally take out the striker assy & clean the tunnel. I also size the cases, turn them over in a try, & spray the primer pockets with Hornady 1-Shot Case Lube. NEVER had a misfire that way.

dvc - eric - a28026

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Guys, I will do the deed this weekend or so. I have a friend and he shoots a Glock 34 while I shoot a 17 (actually a PAIR of 17!)

This is exactly what I want. If it works well, then without touching a spring or changing the connector bar, I will do the same thing to my carry Glocks!

Thanks.

Deaf

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To all ,

Contimplating polishing Be verry carful not to round off the engagement surfaces on the triger bar or the stricker. doing so will make a full auto unit. I have changed out two strikers this week that showed only minor rounding but would fire on reset or would not even pick up the striker at all. Hint always polish into the edges buffing upto but not going past the engagment surface. Keep them sharp. I learnd this lesson the hard way . Also heavier triger take up springs will lighten the pull but be careful as they can also defeat the triger saftey. cuting the plunger spring will lighten the pull but will also soften the reset.

MY2cents

Johnie

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You can also shorten the travel of the trigger by slightly bending the trigger bar forward where the trigger spring connects. If you go to far forward the trigger safety will not engage. So do a little at a time. And when you think you have it right, round off the bottom of the trigger safety. This will smooth it out and not make it so "catchy" and still be safe.

JLJ

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alchemy sells extra power springs with there conector.

You can also move the hole up on the triger bar to achieve similar results.

as far as bending the tab forward this will indeed give shorter take up but a better solution is to install a set screw to the side of the bar to stop foward movement. but be carful as you will in effect defeet the plunger safty.

Johnnie

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