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Altering Ejectors


Heavy Barrel

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Owning a pair of Beretta O/U's for the past few years one thing that I have always been curious about and that is Ejector alterations.

So I checked with the "only" three gunsmith's here locally. The response I got from them were that since the O/U's bared the name Beretta they won't alter the ejectors. Since in their words "It would void the warranty".

So I asked all three if they had any references to offer. In which the only references they offered was the call Beretta.

After sending a inquire to Beretta's Customer service. Asking if they could alter the ejectors. The response I got was "Beretta does not alter over/under shotgun ejectors from their factory configuration (for liability reasons)."

Would any of you gentlemen have any recommendations/suggestions?

I have looked into a few gunsmiths that are a longways from home, though by the information that they provided none of them clearly advertised that they can alter the ejectors.

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What do you want to alter on your ejectors? Do you want the ejectors to not "eject" the empty hulls but only lift the empty hulls out of the chambers?

Exactly, I don't want the ejectors to eject, only extract. Your one step ahead of me...

Years ago, some where I read that all they do is grind off the hooks that are on the ejectors. Though I can't find that information any more.

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Try: http://www.bobscustomgunshop.com

http://www.colegun.com/

or

http://www.joeletchenguns.com/

Cole's is pretty much the U.S. authority on Beretta O/U work, so if it's practical, they will tell you one way or another with no BS. If you really need selective ejectors, you may need to get a Perazzi or Krieghoff or drop down to a lower-tech shotgun like a SxS.

There may be a problem with grinding off the ejectors, such as whatever hits them beating itself to pieces over time.

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Hard to emphasize in "writing", but doooon't touch the ejectors by grinding or altering them in any form or fashion.

How'd I do ;)

They are the most expensive and important part in the "system" and must be "fitted".

I'd call Cole and ask them.

Also, go to www.shotgunworld.com and search. You'll read some "stuff" on that.

The Beretta system is similar to many O/U's, basically. The sear or lever in the forend is the part to "modify" if needed...but I'd ask Cole on how effective it really is. They do have to extract enough so you can pick them out.

Cutting the ejector "springs" is probably the easiest way of reducing the "ejection" force, but it's not exactly like "extraction"...you might be disappointed.

I do wish, like you, there were more "options" on ejection or extraction like Browning now has on one of their models.

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Try: http://www.bobscustomgunshop.com

http://www.colegun.com/

or

http://www.joeletchenguns.com/

Cole's is pretty much the U.S. authority on Beretta O/U work, so if it's practical, they will tell you one way or another with no BS. If you really need selective ejectors, you may need to get a Perazzi or Krieghoff or drop down to a lower-tech shotgun like a SxS.

There may be a problem with grinding off the ejectors, such as whatever hits them beating itself to pieces over time.

I will contact both Bobs Custom Gunshop and Cole Gun to get their input.

I asked Etchen back in the last week if December if they could alter the ejectors. And they were another one that stated that they couldn't do it, Them doing it would likely void my warranty, if any one it would be Beretta.

I am not too interested in having "selective ejectors" If I was I would look into either a Perazzi or Krieghoff. Or settle for a Beretta 471 Silver Hawk.

Hard to emphasize in "writing", but doooon't touch the ejectors by grinding or altering them in any form or fashion.

How'd I do ;)

They are the most expensive and important part in the "system" and must be "fitted".

I'd call Cole and ask them.

Also, go to www.shotgunworld.com and search. You'll read some "stuff" on that.

The Beretta system is similar to many O/U's, basically. The sear or lever in the forend is the part to "modify" if needed...but I'd ask Cole on how effective it really is. They do have to extract enough so you can pick them out.

Cutting the ejector "springs" is probably the easiest way of reducing the "ejection" force, but it's not exactly like "extraction"...you might be disappointed.

I do wish, like you, there were more "options" on ejection or extraction like Browning now has on one of their models.

When I initially contacted Beretta I also asked them if for any reason. I were to request that the extractors be changed back to their normal condition. What would that cost me?

Beretta does, however, convert extractors to ejectors by installing new ejector plungers (@$2.00 ea.), springs (@$2.00 ea.) and ejectors (@$49.00 ea.). Labor is based on $60.00 per hour.

And the quote that they threw at me really didn't seem any worse than what Smith & Wesson charges. Just that Beretta is ways ahead of Smith & Wesson for turn around time.

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But I am about to bust for asking...WHY do you want an extractor gun instead of ejectors?

Your not alone.....

Everyone of the three local smiths I inquired asked me the same question.

Simple answer.

I like reloading, but I hate picking up hulls.

And when using public ranges, it can be a little crowded. Just before hunting seasons.

Which there has been past times I have hit people standing behind me with ejected hulls.

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Which there has been past times I have hit people standing behind me with ejected hulls

You could develop the technique of releasing the top lever and placing the same hand over the opening breech to catch/stop the ejected shells...if that's the only reason you want extractors. Something to consider anyway.

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Which there has been past times I have hit people standing behind me with ejected hulls

You could develop the technique of releasing the top lever and placing the same hand over the opening breech to catch/stop the ejected shells...if that's the only reason you want extractors. Something to consider anyway.

That is what I do with my Browning 325 - catch the hulls. It is considered rude to eject your hulls into the group at the sporting clays stand - or worse, bounce hulls off their Kreighoffs in the rack :blink: .

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Try: http://www.bobscustomgunshop.com

http://www.colegun.com/

or

http://www.joeletchenguns.com/

Cole's is pretty much the U.S. authority on Beretta O/U work, so if it's practical, they will tell you one way or another with no BS. If you really need selective ejectors, you may need to get a Perazzi or Krieghoff or drop down to a lower-tech shotgun like a SxS.

There may be a problem with grinding off the ejectors, such as whatever hits them beating itself to pieces over time.

I haven't got a response back from Bob's yet though I got one from Cole's today. By the way Rich Cole briefly explained the procedure it sounds as if anyone could do it......Though I don't have the nerve quite yet.

He stated this is a very simple alteration to the forend iron levers. One simply grinds a radius on the top of the levers so that they do not retain the ejector timing hooks, therefore the ejectors lift the cartridges under spring tenison, and cam closed on the dolls head cams as usual. If the shooter chooses to have ejector function again, all that is required is the replacement of these parts, a parts cost of somewhere about $25-30.

Edited by Heavy Barrel
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After lying in bed past few nights drawing this out on the ceiling.

What I think would be a nice option IMO is that when opening the action.

If a round has been discharged in either of the two chambers, it extracts the hull.

But if there is a that round hasn't been discharged when the action is opened the extractors don't extract the live round.

Still work on the concept of extraction/ejection only don't eject the discharged rounds, and don't extract the live rounds.

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I didn't see where you stated your model #. If it has the same ejector setup as the 686, 687, or 682, you have an easy out.

With both hammers down, pull the forend without breaking the action. Remove the forend iron, and if the ejectors are coil spring driven, simply replace the coil springs with a set of lighter springs. Save the factory ejector springs in case you want to some day change back.

I have done this with my Beretta 686 Silver Pigeon, my Browning 525 and Sporting Clays SE. Works like a charm once you get the springs tuned, and as a side benefit, the gun will close easier.

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