Aluminum oxide + fiber glass resin =

[CDRODA396]

the fiber glass resin should be thin enough where you can apply it with a paint brush. Don't apply it too thick or you run the risk of the epoxy running. As for applying the abrasive media, sprinkle it on till you get good coverage. Do it all in one go. You should have enough time before the epoxy dries up. I had to do my grip repair in multiple stages since i'm trying to build the size of the grip back up (i went a bit crazy with the file ).

My next experiment is to mix up some epoxy with the abrasive media, brush it on and apply more media. My reasoning behind that is if the outer layer of media flakes or comes off from excess use, the media that is suspended in the epoxy should still be rough enough.

yoshidaex, thanks for the response. And since you're answering questions, where did you get the media, and did you find it in black. One of the threads talked about aluminum oxide and it being brown. I found some silcon carbide ( http://therockshed.com/grit.html ) that I can actually buy in quantities less than 50 lbs that looks like it will work? Its the 60-90 grit about halfway down the page, what do you (or anyone) think?

Thanks again for all the assistance.

Edited December 26, 2007 by CDRODA396

[dirtypool40]

if the outer layer of media flakes or comes off from excess use, the media that is suspended in the epoxy should still be rough enough.

Good point. I love the feel of a "SCott" grip but I wear them smooth too soon. It's why I switched to regular textured grip.

[el pres]

the fiber glass resin should be thin enough where you can apply it with a paint brush. Don't apply it too thick or you run the risk of the epoxy running. As for applying the abrasive media, sprinkle it on till you get good coverage. Do it all in one go. You should have enough time before the epoxy dries up. I had to do my grip repair in multiple stages since i'm trying to build the size of the grip back up (i went a bit crazy with the file ).

My next experiment is to mix up some epoxy with the abrasive media, brush it on and apply more media. My reasoning behind that is if the outer layer of media flakes or comes off from excess use, the media that is suspended in the epoxy should still be rough enough.

All at once?? So you stand the grip in the upright position and

do all 4 sides at once or do you mean epoxy and grit at once??

Seems like the epoxy will run down that way??

Also, looks like the grip in the picture was masked off, painter's

tape?? I have a some r/c modeling expirience and am going to

give this a try!!

[yoshidaex]

epoxy the entire grip first. don't go globbing it all over the grip . Just a thin layer is good enough. Then you apply the grit. The thicker you apply the epoxy the more the epoxy will run. Also the more you apply, the thicker the grip is gonna get. If you want to go for a thicker grip, apply the grip to an unsanded grip but do it with multiple thin coats.

Theres one problem with taping off areas where you don't want the epoxy to get to. When all is said and done and some epoxy did get on to the area you taped off, when you go to pull the tape off, theres a good chance you could lift off the epoxy from the area you want. You can use a razor blade to prevent the lift off from the desired area but now you're stuck with a slightly sharp edge.

[el pres]

Ok, so now the epoxy. Is it a two part mix epoxy (5min,

45min) or an epoxy catalyst activated resin like for

fiberglassing??

[yoshidaex]

i used fiberglass epoxy on the last 2 grip rebuilds. acraglass works good too.

[JimmyZip]

I worked with different types of epoxy when I used to make custom furniture and cabinets in the late 90's. Epoxy consistency depends on tempurature. If you are in a cold room and your epoxy is cold, it will set slower than the time it says for whatever type you are using.

If you are in a hot environment and your epoxy is also hot, it will set faster than what it is quoted at.

One part is usually more viscous or less runny than the other, so be careful when mixing as it could spell the difference between a hard substance at the end or a mess of incompletely set junk. A and B ratios should be as close to 50/50 as possible to get the best strength.

Also, smaller batches set slower as they build heat slower. The chemical action that hardens the epoxy is exothermic and spreading out your epoxy after it is mixed will allow a longer work time.

I've got a million epoxy stories/tips so I will stop boring you.

JimmyZip

Oh, P.S. Laquer thinner is a good solvent to clean that stuff up with.

[JimmyZip]

Another thing, place your grips on wax paper, epoxy doesn't adhere to it well.

Blue masking tape can be used as a dam if you are using a thinner resin. I've done Dakota Jackson knock-offs and that's like a surfboard for a table top. I used the tape as a dam and was able to get quite a build-up. I hope that helps. JimmyZip

[el pres]

From what I'm understanding you should be useing the

catalyst activated epoxy resin not the two part stuff right?

I use to rebuild surfboard damaged tips by makeing a pocket

of masking tape and pouring it in. Then remove the tape and

grinding to shape (fiberglass resin).