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timing problems


mattbeck

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Hey guys,

It finally happened. While shooting the TN sectional this weekend with Hopalong, my revolver quit working. The first four stages I shot I thought I was short stroking the trigger, but Sam finally figured out that I had a chamber that was skipping. He was kind enough to loan me an old worn out 25 that I muddled through the rest of the match with, so it wasn't all bad. When we inspected the 625 that evening, we found that one notch has a bad worn shoulder on it. This kind of sucks, seeing as I've only got around 6000 rounds through this gun, and I've already had to have the barrel replaced due to an oversize bore. What I'm wondering now is whether this cylinder can be repaired, or do I need to start looking into a new stainless cylinder, or better yet is it possible to find a Ti cylinder? I know I read on another thread that the Ti cylinders are available, but on the S&W website, it says this is a factory installed part only. Has anyone out here been able to buy a Ti Cyl, and if so, is this my best option?

Any info and response would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, by the way, I did manage to beat Hop on two stages with his own gun. :cheers:

Edited by mattbeck
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Matt, most of the time this problem can be fixed by replacing the cylinder stop with a new MIM stop and new spring--the new MIM stops generally do not require fitting--and lightly dressing off the little lip that has probably developed at the bottom edge of the lead-in ramp on the chamber that's skipping, causing the cylinder stop to ramp right over the notch. Might as well do all six while you're at it.

If the problem becomes chronic, as it has for a few folks, you may need to look into a replacement cylinder. If it gets that far, I suppose you might as well order up a Ti.

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NOT the lead in side of the notch.

It is not peened off, it is just completely rounded and gone. I have never seen one like it or even remotely similar.

it appears to me that the hardening they do around the notches was either too hard and making it brittle or too soft and just leaving.

Oh, and another person wanting my 25-2 ! (Sorry Matt, but If/when I quit it goes back to Chad) ;)

Hop

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Yikes.

Well, let's hope the new materials and/or heat-treating process we have been hearing about lately will solve this sort of problem. The more cylinders that get sent back to Smith with sternly-worded (yet polite) letters demanding the problem be resolved, the more likely it is that the factory will respond.

(I still have a feeling that certain gun-handling habits play a role in some of these cases--not necessarily in Matt's case, but in general--some people have a way of slamming a cylinder open and shut that really makes me wince--I won't name names but this includes a couple of very accomplished shooters in Revo division.)

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So, now I get to decide whether to send it back to smith for a new cyl.(hopefully covered under warranty) then have it rechamfered and hope it has 6 round

holes of the proper depth and diameter unlike my 625 JM, all the while hoping I get more than 6000 rounds through it before it's worn out, or spend ~$150.00 on a new Ti cyl, which should out last my stop, but will still have to be chamfered to get ready for competition. Dang!!! Decisions, Decisions, Decisions.

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Hi all.

Sounds to me like this is a "send back to factory"-case if ever, if the whole stop notch was gone! That must qualify as a material/process fault if anything...

On the other hand, instead of going the Ti-route when eventually replacing cylinders, has anyone tried to fit a 25-2 cylinder in a 625 or is that a big no-go?

Edited by RogerT
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NOT the lead in side of the notch.

It is not peened off, it is just completely rounded and gone. I have never seen one like it or even remotely similar.

it appears to me that the hardening they do around the notches was either too hard and making it brittle or too soft and just leaving.

Hop

Hmmm........That sure sounds familiar!!!

IF..and I mean "IF" you have the problem described above, buy a Ty cyl and dont look back.

Thought I'd never cave-in to the Ty era, but after dealing with the re-occuring skipping of an SS cyl and the frustration that followed. Well lets say, i'm a believer.

Until S&W can fix their cyl problems, Ty is the way to go........

BTW, my first 625 never skip'd at all....And it had 80,000+ rnds through it AND about a half millon dry fire cycles.....Talk about "use"....There it is........

A broken hammer stud laid it to rest...

DanBagger

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Well guys, after calling Smith and not being able to talk to a live person and with my concerns about the quality of materials coming out now, I decided to break town and order a Ti cyl. I ordered it from the link provided and should recieve it in a couple of days. Now Hopalong will get to work on yet another of my revos. Thanks for the info guys.

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A gunsmith/FFL can order a TI cylinder. While light they run hot! Run three or four fast reloads through it and it will be hot to handle.

If you keep that gun in the up-right position with your sights on a target and your finger on the trigger..........You wont have time to feel the HEAT..... ;):D:D:D

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FWIW....I have a new never fit blued old steel 25-2 cylinder assy. (whole cylinder with ejector rod, no yoke) if someone needs it........I ended up fitting a 625 cylinder to my 25-2 as I was worried about not using lead in the 25-2 cylinder....never miked the chambers though........

DougC

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