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Help with mag followers and springs


Chris40

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Hi all I am looking for some help I have SV followers and Sv tubes. How do you get the followers on the spring should I bend the top of the spring. The springs or Sti and infinity springs. Is there a better way

                 Thanks for the help Chris

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If these are the SV competition followers I had to trim the front coil on my ISMI springs in order to get them to fit properly. I hope you have better luck with yours than I have. They work great but I have had two crack because they are so thin. When I can afford to I'm changing to Grams spring and followers.

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I have found that if you clip a little off (and I mean a little) the top coil at a sharp angle you can get it to work good.  Dig the sharp end of the coil into the front of the follower and then press the back coil down. Some have told me that they have to use super glue to make them stay but I have not had any trouble.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

If the top of the spring and follower don't quite match up, try this.  Get your hands on a sodering iron and heat the highest part of the spring possible.  Once hot enough, your follower will sink right into place.  

CAUTION:  As soon as the spring begins to melt the follower, remove the heat source.  Be careful not to melt the follower too much!  If you do it right, it works perfectly!

Phil

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Angus,

Yes, he is definitely the mag master. The only mod he does that I don't like, however, is he cuts off, on both sides, the part of the mag (don't have a word for it) that is right in front of the feed lips. I actually tune this "guide" (just made a word for it), on each mag, to guide the rounds into the exact center of the feed ramp.

My personal mags are tuned to such a state that it wouldn't be possible to do it on a production basis.

be

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You are correct Brian,

I do modify the "mouth" area on STI/SV mags, (the area in front of the feed lips). The two "ears" that protrude up on each side, (you refered to these as "guides" I beleive) are trimmed down so they are not pointed and give more room for your thumb to push the bullets into the mag when loading. We all know how much time we spend loading mags, and I for one don't like sore thumbs. In feeding from the mag to the feed ramp, the bullets can travel from .050 to .250 forward befor hitting the feed ramp, (depending on how long you load your ammo) but the feed lips are controling the direction of the nose of the bullet also, and I feel that there are no feeding problems caused by my modification of the "ear guides", (I think we just created a new term, Brian). The shape of the feed ramp will also control the nose of the bullet and the feed lips will not let go of the rim of the bullet until the bullet nose is well on its way to entering the chamber. On alot of the mags that are sent to me for tuning, I find that the ear guides are severly damaged and even bent far enough to cause feeding problems, (cause by dropping the mags, of course). By lowering the ear guides, the bullets are exposed to help cussion the hit on the ground, thus helping to save the mag from damage from the drop, (most mag changes are done with bullets still in the mag). In the trimming of the ear guides, I also lower the very front of the mouth area were the feed ramp might hit the mag tube when the barrel is not in battery. This also makes sure that if a bullet nose dives, it will hit the feed ramp and not the mag tube.

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