Glock Trigger Job

[wcmesa]

Ive been tinkering w/ glock trigger jobs lately and have a few questions for the glock jockeys here. Ive polished the trigger bar, connector and striker safty. Ive installed a pre and post travel screw. Ive insured the striker safty still works and trimmed my trigger safty to work. Next i lightened and put a 45degree cut on the striker. I relocated the trigger spring hole on the trigger bar just above the old one as per dale rhea. I have installed a glockmeister trigger spring and wolf striker spring. I love it its short and light and most importantly all the safties still work. Now heres the question my trigger reset is a little sluggish. it resets but doesnt have the gusto that it used to . I havent shot it yet but it is more positive if i use a slapping method instead of trying to dryfire by reset. Is this normal w/ heavily modded triggers? I know a few people w/ rs trigger kits and they r kinda sluggish to. Any insight is much appreciated ps i also thinned my 3.5 stockconnector and by the way this is in a g35

Edited April 7, 2007 by wcmesa

[Chuck Merriam]

Vanek told me not to be too agressive with the overtravel ajustment as it would lead to reset problems. Maybe backing off a bit there might help. To get mine down more I cut 1 1/2 coils off the reduced power striker spring....but had to use federal primers after that! Some of the top trigger guys use 5lb and 8lb disconnects to get the super crisp triggers.

[Flexmoney]

Of these three things:

- relocate the trigger spring hole higher

- use a heavier trigger return spring

- use reduced power striker spring

ONLY DO TWO of the three. Use whatever combo feels best, but don't do all three at once. (You can, but you get into reset issues and such...making your glock run like a 1911.)

[big_kahuna]

+1 on Flex$'s comments... Try putting your stock trigger spring back in first. Should make the reset more positive without overtly affecting your other work. Also the easiest / quickest thing to change.

[jpsac2003]

+1 Thats all I did and the trigger feels great.

[Jman]

I might suggest you experiment with the NY1 trigger spring. It is my understanding that it makes for a nice crisp reset. I'm not a Glock Dr. But I stay at the Holiday Inn Express on all my business trips.

Jim

[wcmesa]

thanks to all for the speedy reply. flex im goin to try putting my stock trigger spring back in. i want to run a 15lb recoil spring so the wolf striker spring is kind of a must. I have a few extra parts so i will experiment and let yall know what happens.

[atmar]

also try the LWD connector

[open17]

thanks to all for the speedy reply. flex im goin to try putting my stock trigger spring back in. i want to run a 15lb recoil spring so the wolf striker spring is kind of a must. I have a few extra parts so i will experiment and let yall know what happens.

I'm running stock striker springs with a 13 lb recoil spring with no problems. This is with

a re-drilled trigger bar/Glockmeister competition trigger spring/LWD 3.5 connector.

Bill

[wcmesa]

I changed the trigger spring back to stock and only picked up a .25 lb. the reset is back to normal. thanks to all

[atmar]

Of these three things:

- relocate the trigger spring hole higher

- use a heavier trigger return spring

- use reduced power striker spring

ONLY DO TWO of the three. Use whatever combo feels best, but don't do all three at once. (You can, but you get into reset issues and such...making your glock run like a 1911.)

hello flex,

i did all 3, and yes i ran into reset problems, but i discovered the LWD connector and now i have a 1.5lb. trigger

[Flexmoney]

thanks to all for the speedy reply. flex im goin to try putting my stock trigger spring back in. i want to run a 15lb recoil spring so the wolf striker spring is kind of a must. I have a few extra parts so i will experiment and let yall know what happens.

I'm running stock striker springs with a 13 lb recoil spring with no problems. This is with

a re-drilled trigger bar/Glockmeister competition trigger spring/LWD 3.5 connector.

Bill

For those out there reading this and wondering what why this might be an issue...

Recoil spring is what holds the slide/action closed on the Glock. The physical act of pulling the trigger puts backward pressure on the striker (located in the slide). If the striker spring were heavy enough (or the recoil spring light enough), then the simple act of pulling the trigger could unlock the gun...possibly causing it to fire out of battery.

So, if you are going into these guns to mess around, this is one of the major things you need to be aware of.

If you go with a light recoil spring (stock is #17) and keep a stock striker spring...then you may get into a situation that the gun will unlock on you. The pressure that is applied to the striker while pulling the trigger might...instead of just retracting the striker, may over-power the recoil spring instead.

[the duck of death]

Keep lightening the striker spring. I cut 7 coils off the OEM. You mentioned lightening the firing pin, cut the arm depth by 1/2, and lots of longitudional cuts on the fat part of the pin. This spring is important to the trigger pull. I don't drill a hole I heat and bend to 90*, then use a stock trigger spring. I use a pin for minimal take up and NO over travel stop. Glocks don't need one.

This lights all primer brands and reset is strong.