ATMester Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 (edited) I'd like to improve the mushy trigger on my Kimber .45 /Team Match II./ I'd like to have a pull about 2lbs and a very-very clean break. (currently about 3-3 1/2 lbs) It has a Swartz safety (series 80) I'm thinking about getting the following parts from SVI Infinity: copied this: Shopping Cart Contents (nothing is final until you submit your order) item description unit price u/m qty cost adjust quantity here Hammer Pin $3.31 ea. 1 $3.31 change qty then click Spur Hammer $63.74 ea. 1 $63.74 change qty then click Sear $32.95 ea. 1 $32.95 change qty then click Sear Pin $3.31 ea. 1 $3.31 change qty then click Strut-Material Titanium $15.91 ea. 1 $15.91 change qty then click Strut Pin $3.31 ea. 1 $3.31 change qty then click Triglide 1911 Disconnector $32.95 ea. 1 $32.95 change qty then click Trigger Insert - Short Curved-Color Black $19.76 ea. 1 $19.76 change qty then click Triglide Sear Spring-Sear Spring 1911 $24.19 ea. 1 $24.19 change qty then click Triglide Trigger - Single Stack-Silver $34.06 ea. 1 $34.06 change qty then click Order Subtotal: $233.49 Click here to change shipping options. Texas deliveries subject to $18.68 sales tax. Orders will be confirmed via email. USA - Ground : $16.00 Grand Total: $249.49 I have a few questions: I read most of what I could find on this subject, if I'm correct it will be a drop in trigger job. Will it give me a decent trigger pull with the Kimber's Swartz (series 80) safety? Will I need to bend -tension the sear spring? Buying a trigger pull gauge will add to the cost. Any other article on how to set sear springs other then the one on Brownell's web site? Does it even worth to invest $300 plus (fiber optic front sight and maybe a trigger pull gaude) on my Kimber at all? Any opinion-advice appreciated Guys, Edited March 18, 2007 by TheHun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 I would remove the series 80 stuff and use an Extreme Engineering hammer and sear with the SVI spring and disconnector and trigger. You will wind up with a nice trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 (edited) With respect, For half of what youre paying in parts alone, you could have a smith do a nice crisp 4# trigger on the exisiting parts and youd most likely me thrilled. No trigger job is truly drop in. You might get lucky, you might have a good chance of getting lucky, but you might just make yourself a full auto machine pistol. If you try to get down to 2# without having a good experienced smith do it, youre asking for trouble. The key to a low # trigger job is polishing, fitting and recut sear angles. Not dropping in new parts. edit: before taking internet advise to dump the 80 series parts, make sure you know you need to replace the parts with a spacer. Edited March 18, 2007 by mike cyrwus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Sample Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Good advice from Mike! Hire a compenent smith to take care of the trigger. Trigger pulls are something I laugh about! There is a secret message there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 IIRC, the Kimber trigger block system (Swartz) is completely different than the Colt system and the grip safety, not the trigger bow, activates the mechanism. It allegedly does not affect the trigger pull at all. 2lbs is beyond what I would expect to get out of anybody's "drop in kit", if there is such a thing. To have a trigger that light, that is reliable and safe, you would likely need the attention of a competent smith. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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