Cz Ts Disaasembly/customizing

[Matt Cheely]

A little CZ TS slide lightening...

What was the before and after weights?

Heavy and lighter.

I didn't weigh it. I'm doing another one next week, I'll try to remember.

[Middle Man]

OK, update on the modified/milled CZ Standard IPSC.

Basically, I screwed up. But I waited until right at the end of the process to do it, so maybe I get partial credit? Here's the gory details. First off, I removed 1.525" of the dustcover, leaving an angled cut the same degree as the grip. Good so far. Then I opened up the top of the slide with a 0.500" mill 2.100" long starting about 0.220" behind the front sight. Still doing fine at this point. Then I decide to mill out some of the guide rod tunnel. Started 0.325" from the end (listen close, 'cause this is where I began my downfall) and made a cut 1.170" long and about 0.500" deep. Looks great! Unfortunately I was milling faster than I was thinking because the spring butts up against a stop in the guide rod tunnel about 0.540" from the end of the gun. Remember where I started? AND, I forgot this gun isn't a captured guide rod type. So, if you try to put it together, the recoil spring wants to come out of this beautiful new cut I made in the bottom of the slide.

Fortunatley, all is not lost and I will not be ordering a new slide on Monday. Three of us got together at the shop and we've figured out a way to install a cup/recoil plug into the guide rod tunnel. It may involve a bit more milling from the inside so it may be pressed in, but I think everything will work out in the end. But it is a lot lighter and swings/stops faster!

Yes, I know, I take crappy pictures. Sue me. But you get the idea.

Cool.

I need a diet more than my TS right now though...

Edited February 19, 2007 by Middle Man

[Kevin J]

Matt,

That is the best damm looking TS mod I have seen yet!!

I'm assuming you did the work on a mill. What type of end mills for the elongated cuts and what size bit for the top slide holes?

Here's a good question, any of you guys doing this work on a mini-mill or is everybody using Bridgeports?

--KJ

[Matt Cheely]

What type of end mills for the elongated cuts and what size bit for the top slide holes?

Here's a good question, any of you guys doing this work on a mini-mill or is everybody using Bridgeports?

Definetly a Bridgeport. I think I used a 1/4 and a 5/16.

What kind of guide rod you got there?

No idea. Ask "coog" it's his slide. I think it's too small of a diameter, something larger like you were talking about machining would work well.

[ihatepickles]

The guiderod is probably a JackAsh guiderod, he's the only name I know that's producing CZ guiderods on a scale larger than 1 or 2 at a time. His guiderod is a bit small in diameter but a thicker rod would cause spring bind-ups and further headaches with disassembly. I'm pretty sure JackAsh has a zero communication policy, if you order a rod it will show up eventually but don't expect to know when.

I've owned this pistol with a JackAsh CZ TS guiderod and would recommend a standard CZ75 length rod rather than a rod that's the full length of the slide. A couple of reasons: The long rod makes it tough to angle the rod out of the dustcover and the CZ TS is already very heavy (the plastic rod is probably the best part for the job anyway) and doesn't need the weight.

[Hypersonic]

Hey Matt or anybody else,

If I wanted to lighten up my slide like you did, could I go ahead and just drill the holes with a drill press? I was thinking about drilling the holes in the top just like you did but also some on the sides to lighten it up. Would that work?

Thanks.

[SouthpawG26]

A word of warning on going overboard with slide lightening: Without a firing pin safety (the TS doesn't come with one), one needs to be careful not to exceed the critical slide speed which lets the fp ignite a primer on closing.

[ken hebert]

Here's those fat free Glock 24 pics...

[Stuck in C]

I have no interest in cutting down the dustcover or making holes or slots in the slide, but I would like to remove the factory checkering from the backstrap and maybe the frontstrap. What do you think is the best way to do this? Bench grinder? Dremel tool? Hand file? My Mini-mill? Any tips?

[Carlos]

I have no interest in cutting down the dustcover or making holes or slots in the slide, but I would like to remove the factory checkering from the backstrap and maybe the frontstrap. What do you think is the best way to do this? Bench grinder? Dremel tool? Hand file? My Mini-mill? Any tips?

I have a CZ & a mini mill - that is not the way to go since the surface is way too curvy in several planes (even w/ a dividing head).

I think that a bench grinder or belt sander would work best to take most of it off (just until you can barely see the lines). Once the lines start to disappear, you will be "working blind" meaning there is little way to tell how thin the metal is getting so go slow at this point. Then, a new sharp file followed by strips of metal cutting sandpaper. Looks like you could do a fair bit of undercutting at the back of the triggergaurd too.

[Kevin J]

I have no interest in cutting down the dustcover or making holes or slots in the slide, but I would like to remove the factory checkering from the backstrap and maybe the frontstrap. What do you think is the best way to do this? Bench grinder? Dremel tool? Hand file? My Mini-mill? Any tips?

I have a CZ & a mini mill - that is not the way to go since the surface is way too curvy in several planes (even w/ a dividing head).

I think that a bench grinder or belt sander would work best to take most of it off (just until you can barely see the lines). Once the lines start to disappear, you will be "working blind" meaning there is little way to tell how thin the metal is getting so go slow at this point. Then, a new sharp file followed by strips of metal cutting sandpaper. Looks like you could do a fair bit of undercutting at the back of the triggergaurd too.

I just preformed this operation (checkering removal) on my TS. The best method is using a dremel with a stone grinding wheel for the majority of removal, then follow on with 120 grit paper. I did a little undercutting using various sizes of round file to the trigger guard and the backstrap. My impression is that you have to do both to keep the gun sitting level in you hands. Maybe level isn't the best way of describing it. My advice is be very patient and remove material in very small amounts. For the checkering I used a permenant Luminol pen to mark areas that needed removing. I frequently stopped to remark. Using a vise will help dramtically!!

How do you plan to refinish when your done?

Edited February 26, 2007 by Kevin J

[ken hebert]

Hard chrome.

With parkerizing as a distant second option, just because I can do it locally for cheap.

[Kevin J]

So I finally finshed putting my baby back together!! If your looking for a finish that is cost effective, I highly recommend DuraCoat. It was easy to apply and prep, and they pretty much give you all the instruction you need. What I like best is that if you don;t llike the color, you can always do it over.

Of course the one thing I can't comment on is the durability. We'll see how it holds up over the course of the season.

Now on to the next mods, I have a FO sight on the way and I'll be ordering a magwell today. I'm holding off on lightening for now, but it's a major possibility in the near future.

Edited February 27, 2007 by Kevin J

[Carlos]

Excellent work! I think it turned out fantastic.

d.

[ken hebert]

Looks seamless, excellent. I especially like the outcome on the front and back of the grip, nice and smooth.

[Stuck in C]

I think I lost my nerve for removing the checkering-maybe next off season. I did replace the CZ wooden grips with the aluminum ones from Ghostholster: it made a huge difference in how it fits my hand-thanks Angus. They look cool too!