Revolver Loads

[45KANSAS]

Is there a difference between reloading for a revolver or a semi-auto? I bought a 6 1/2" barrel revolver & was wondering what, if anything, I should change between my auto loads & the longer revolver. This is a 45ACP. I use mostly 230 FMJ, but might use LSWC for this revolver. It will mostly be used for Bullseye competition in a big bore league. Is there a lot of pressure changes between a 5" & a 6 1/2" barrell?

[Bubber]

45KANSAS, There is a difference in the feel of the same loads between the 45 Auto and the Revolver. I believe that the velocities for the revo would be less with the same loads because of the escaping gasses between the forcing cone and cylinder gap. And the differences between the 6 1/2 and the 5 inch would vary upon type of powder used. Somewhere in an old magazine article the rule of thumb is a loss of 25 fps per inch of barrel loss. Now this is velocity and not pressures. I would not know the other data. There is alot of data in the reloading forum and come on over to the revo section where there is also a lot of info. later rdd

[Viggen]

Bubber, I used to think that revo's would always be a little slower because of the cylinder gap. But when putting it to the test on a chrono I am finding that it depends on the individual revolver or pistol. Just like in the rifle world I am finding fast barrels and slow barrels.

This was a real surprise to me. I had always believed the old wisdom of the revo being a bit slower - In this case I was comparing 5" 625's and 1911's and it didn't necessarily turn out as expected.

Edited December 17, 2006 by Viggen

[Carmoney]

If you're talking about a S&W Model 25-2, be forewarned that many specimens of this particular model do not shoot well with cast lead bullets sized smaller than .454". Some guns are fine, you won't know until you try. Most 25-2s are substantially more accurate with jacketed (or plated) bullets.

[Intel6]

My only two changes are to first keep the brass between the two seperate because I found that brass fired in autos tends to get nicks and gouges on the rims which doen't bother the autos but can cause problems in the revos. I basically had a thousand or so once fired WW cases so I made them my revo brass and when I sort cleaned brass I know the WW cases are for the revo.

The other thing I do is to change out my crimp die. I load ammo specifically for may revo and don't shoot it in my autos so I use a Reding Profile crimp on my revo ammo. I cast a 200 gr FPL with a crimp groove and the profile crimp not only puts a nice roll crimp on the round it also puts a taper crimp on it. I have found this crimp ( using my ransom rest and chrono) to make my ammo more consistent in both accuracy and velocity and I use them on all my revolver calibers.

Neal in AZ

[TonyT]

There is a different recoil sensation between a semi-auto and revolver with the same 45 ACP loads. In the revolver you don't have the clanging of the slide.

[RePete]

I'm loading 5.0gr Bullseye with the 230gr Plated RN for my 5" 625.