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How To Champher Cylinder Of 627?


RodeoClown

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I just got a 627 today, but when I tried to drop in a moon clip, it wouldn't go in smoothly. I checked the charge holes individually, and on a couple of them there must be some kind of burr because I have a hard time getting the bullet in and out. I figured rather than starting to file around on the charge hole, maybe I should invest in a champfering tool from Brownells and champfer the holes. But then, since on six of the eight holes the bullets do drop in, maybe I should just take a fine file and file the edge of the remaining two holes to make the bullet go in smoothly as it seems the charge holes are already champfered from the factory, but only slightly. What to do? Also, if you guys feel I should go for the champfering option, could you let me know how to champfer the holes and what tools to buy? I have a couple of other revolvers so I figure it could be worth the investment.

Thanks.

Edited by RodeoClown
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080-587-381 Fits .38/.357 Cylinder $99.97

Mfr: BROWNELLS

Break Sharp Edges On Rifle & Handgun Muzzles; Get Faster Cylinder Filling On Revolvers

45° chamfering cutter breaks the edges of the rifling for a clean bullet exit or chamfers revolver cylinder chamber mouths for quick reloads. Includes the cutter, a handle and one pilot, all in a polypropylene box. Interchangeable pilot keeps cutter properly aligned. Purchase extra pilots to use one cutter for many different calibers. Pilots for other calibers available separately. The 45° Cutter supplied in Sets marked with an * is 5/8" dia. to correctly chamfer the larger barrel and cylinder mouths on those calibers. All other Sets have a ½" diameter, 45° cutter.

SPECS: Chamfer Cutter – Hardened steel. 3¼" (8.25cm) long (except .165" cutter, 2-3/8" (6cm) long). ½" (12.7mm) or 5/8" (15.8mm) diameter as required. Handle – Aluminum. 3½" (8.9cm) long. 3 oz. (85 g). Pilot - Hardened steel. 1¼" (3.2cm) long. Packaged in a polypropylene box.

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I have bought 5 of the 627s without ever having any problems with the loaded moon clips dropping in or any alignnment / timing issues. All needed better trigger jobs and some deburring and all I used to "clean up" the cylinders was jewlers rouge' on a .45 caliber cotton brush in the .357 cylinders. The quality must have really dropped off the past few years to have this happen. I would contact Tom Kelly, the S&W Performance Center Mgr and send it back for factory repair, if something is not right from the factory it sure won't be right after you monkey with it :-) You may even get S&W to chamfer & polish the cylinders as well as put a better spring kit in from the factory if this is the same gun that you have had to send in before. They are great folks and bend over backwards trying to make competitors happy! "If you do not ask, you will not receive"

Bill Sahlberg

L1283

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+1 to Bill's comment with an addition. Maybe it is the moon clips and not the cylinder openings. What bullet design are you using and which moon clips? Was the 627 new or used?

Start with a stainless bore brush chucked into a battery drill to clean the cylinder. Check back after that :)

Regards,

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+1 to Bill's comment with an addition. Maybe it is the moon clips and not the cylinder openings. What bullet design are you using and which moon clips? Was the 627 new or used?

Start with a stainless bore brush chucked into a battery drill to clean the cylinder. Check back after that :)

Regards,

Thanks everybody for their input!

Gary, as to the gun, it's brand new, I picked it up and shot it for the first time yesterday (The good news is at least it shot where it was supposed to. The last 627 I bought didn't even do that). Also, I don't think it's the moonclips, they're Hearthco. The bullets are 158gr jacketed RN Berry's and the brass is Remington. Dave personally told me that Remington is the best brass along with Federal for his moon clips. Also, I've been using the exact same combination on my 686 and it works perfectly.

Like you suggested, I cleaned out the cylinder with a chamber brush mounted on a drill, and it took off the burr somewhat. Now they're dropping in, even though not quite as smoothly as on my 686. I'd like to now go the champfering route, I think that should take care of the rest of the issue. I've read on this forum that people have widely varying opinions as to how much to champfer and what tools to use. My sense is better too little than too much. What do you guys (and girls) think? What tool to use and how to best do it?

Edited by RodeoClown
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RodeoClown, Might I suggest a moon checker. It is made in the same configurations as your cylinder. Sometimes the brass will get a small crack in it and will cause some difficulties in reloading. It has saved me a couple of times finding something wrong with the brass, ie; split brass, bulge or even not fully seated in the clip. Just another toy to have. :ph34r: . later rdd

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If.....you need to, or just decide to send it back to S&W, I'd call Jim Rae, their Master Revolver Pistolsmith. Jim is the guy that can get it corrected quickly and properly. 1-800-331-0852 ext 3763

I finally had to turn to him to get a 3 timer right. Tom is more into the business end.

Also, if UPS isn't convenient, he will have cust. svc. arrange for FedEx to pick up at your house.

Glenn

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We went the route Round Gun Shooter suggests and it worked just fine.

You don't need anything extreme, just take the edge off. You do it by hand. Then you run a dremel felt pad on the chamfer and in the cylinder to polish.

It work fine.

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