Wtk: Proper Way To Prep Cases Before Loading?

[Hog Sniper]

*********I posted this here becasue the reloading forum doesnt get get much traffic and most of my loads are going to be for a revolver.....

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I'm just getting into reloading and would like to know how you guys clean/prep you brass for reloading?? 40 and 45 acp. Thats it..Any help would be great.

Gary

[Matt Cheely]

I grab a few handfulls out of my bucket of cleaned cases, shoot some dillion lube on them, and load away.

Ok ok, after I pick them up off the ground. They get cleaned in walnut, then polished in corncob media. Then do the above ^ drill.

[Carmoney]

I just tumble 'em in corncob and some bumper polish I bought at the discount auto parts store. Then straight to the loader.

[ihatepickles]

I take spent cases (or new) and tumble them in corncob media for 3 hours. I use some case polish as directed, I don't really have a preference for brand. I sift the cases to separate the media from the cases, I use a Dillon media separator for this task. I usually tumble 2000 cases at a time in my huge Dillon tumbler. I have some large plastic boxes with a lid, I put all the cleaned cases in these boxes until they're needed.

Cases don't really need to be super bright with perfect shine. You're mainly cleaning the cases so that they won't damage the reloading dies with grit. Clean cases makes inspection a bit easier too.

When it's time to load, I take an old baking pan and fill it with brass lying flat. I hit these cases with some Hornady One-Shot, rattle them around in the pan, and hit them again with the One-Shot. I'm picky about my lube, One-Shot lubes well but doesn't need to be cleaned off the cases once they're loaded. It's not gummy and doesn't foul the loading dies with gunk, even still you'll need to clean your dies and press - I do this every 1000 rounds. Once lubed I let the lube dry and then dump the cases into the hopper of my Dillon 650.

From there, I use the progressive press to build the ammo.

The last step for me is to inspect each round for damaged cases and proper primer seating. I gauge each case using a Dillon case gauge. A lot of people don't do final inspection but it's not a big deal for me, I sit in the living room and get comfy, check each case, and place it in a ammo box. Inspecting and gauging ammo will pay dividends at the matches, dealing with jams is very frustrating.

A few various things that a new reloader might be curious about:

• Pistol cases don't need to be trimmed, straight walled cases don't grow the way that bottlenecked (most rifle cases) cases do. The case mouth does need to be square and burr free though. If you use a case gauge for loaded ammo you'll know if you have a case that's too long, but that won't happen very often.
  
• Unless you're striving for superb accuracy, you need not worry about cleaning primer pockets. Most folks reload on a progressive press and monkeying with primer pockets would be very slow.
  
• Dillon progressive presses are worth the money. There are other presses but the Dillon is top dog, I hear of very few people that prefer anything over the Dillon.
  
• Buy 3-4 reloading manuals, read the technique sections carefully. You'll find a lot of competition shooters use boutique loads that aren't easy to double check with published manuals. If you're a bit scared to try something you've read on the Internet, listen to your gut and don't do it. Be responsible for your own choices.
  
• Buy a chronograph if you're going to reload. They're cheap and they will tell you a lot about the safety of your load.
  
• You may see reference to U-dies. These are undersized dies which squeeze cases .001" more than standard dies. Often, they are custom ground to resize further down on the case and remove the bulge on Glock brass. These dies don't always work perfectly on progressive presses though. If you gauge your assembled rounds, you'll locate any problemative rounds, so the U-die may not be needed.
  

Edited November 19, 2006 by ihatepickles

[haras]

Well said Ihatepickles.

I use an undersize die on my single stage to run all my 40S&W cases before sitting down at the Dillon. As each case comes out of the U die, I roll it in my fingers for inspection. I reject anything that looks wrong. I've found split cases, some where there was a weak ring starting at the base and general funk this way. It adds a little time to the reloading process but I'm assured of no problems in the Dillon. I've found that I don't need to chamber check U cases after loading (knock...knock..knock...).

[Northern Xtreme]

Good posts guys, basically I do the same thing, tumble brass well and reload on a Dillon 550.

A few revolver specific points:

Nickle cases seem to slide in and out of chambers slightly better. But they dont seem to hold up as well to repeated reloadings.

I keep a supply of good nickle on hand for match use. Chrono match built rounds!

Since I use carbide dies and my cases are always clean I have never lubed straight walled pistol cases, but one possible advantage that I hadnt thought about is that the Dillon lube or maybe the Hornady one shot (which I have never tried) might help in the speedloading process.

As far as case gauging goes what I did last summer is before a match I would drop every preloaded moonclip into the cylinder of my revolver a couple times each. If one didnt go right in easily I would set it aside and then inspect each round to determine which one had the problem and cull it out.

Another tip I picked up off the BE guys is to use a bolt with large washers and wing nut to store empty moonclips, and to make a loaded moonclip holder with wooden dowels.

I am trying to find clear plastic tubes with caps on each end that will hold loaded moonclips.

[haras]

Yeah, I use nickle exclusively in the 610 and use Hornady One Shot on the cases before they go through the U die. The lube does make it easier, even with carbide dies. The sizing die on the Dillon doesn't do any real work but would catch a case that didn't go through the U die (hasn't happened yet).

I've been known to cylinder check loaded moon clips for big matches. I regularly check clips for straightness. You would be surprised how many get off a little.

Paul, here is a link for the tubes you seek:

http://www.visipak.com/clear_mailing_tubes.shtml

[aerosigns]

Here's one that I haven't seen mentioned yet.

Don't take the primers out until after you have tumbled the brass. I know of several people who tumbled primerless, and then loaded immediately (No, not me). What they didn't check was the small pieces of walnut that can lodge in the flash hole of the brass.

When they were shooting, no bang, just "pop". Trust me that sucks.

By leaving the primers in, any media left overs will be pushed out when you deprime.

Front Sight this month has a good article on things to look for when reloading, such as dryed mud.

When buying media I go to the pet store. They sell ground corn cobs and walnut shells for animal bedding. Costs $2-3 for 10 lbs.

Edited November 19, 2006 by aerosigns

[Carmoney]

Couple other revolver-specific thoughts: Don't be shy about applying plenty of good healthy crimp. As long as you're not cutting through the plating (if you're using plated bullets), a little more crimp is a good thing.

The "moonclip checkers" sold by Kilhoffer (I think) are tighter than actual chamber dimensions--in fact, I think they're unnecessarily tight, and I no longer use them, opting instead to cylinder-check every moonclip before any big match, like Glenn W. I don't close the gun and do a spin-test, I find I can easily identify problem moonclips because they usually don't go in the cylinder easily, and if they do go in they don't make the same solid sound when they seat.

This is another reason I recommend having enough moonclips that you can shoot the whole match without having to reload moonclips between stages (and having that nagging feeling that one of them might be bent a little).

Jim makes an excellent point about tumbling cases before depriming them. Some people from a bench-rest background worry about not cleaning the primer pockets. But in this game, it's really not necessary.

I usually carry my moonclips in one of those Dillon border-shift bags inside my shooting bag. But my "barbecue" moonclip carrier is my deluxe Moon Caddie built personally by pskys2.

[Hog Sniper]

Lots of great stuff...Keep the tips coming..Tumbling with the primers in was one of my main questions I forgot to put in the first post.. Thanks

What tumblers do you like best and why?? How are you applying the polish to the media?

Edited November 19, 2006 by Hog Sniper

[aerosigns]

I use have a Lyman 2500 that I bought used. It will handle all of the brass from a Sectional match in one throw.

If you have a Harbor Freight locally they sell a vibratory cleaner for about $39. Before my Lyman I used a rock tumbler, but it could only hold 25-50 rounds at a time. Much to slow.

For polish I just picked up some Turtle wax Chrome polish from Wal-mart for less than $2.

To carry loaded moons in, I picked up a Plano fishing lure box at Wal-mart for $2.38 has three sections. Each one will hold 15 loaded .45 moons.

Something I added to my vibratory cleaner was one of those 24 hour light timers. I set it for how long I want the cleaner to run, then walk away. Depending on where your set up is located, it will keep the cleaner from running all night in the garage.

[Carmoney]

I have a cheapie Midway tumbler but I'd love to have one of those big blue Dillon tumblers!

Start the media running in the tumbler, then add the polish. It'll be clumpy for awhile. After the clumps are gone, throw in the brass. If you add polish when there's brass in there, sometimes you'll get wads of dried polish and media in the cases.

[Northern Xtreme]

I have the Dillon big blue tumbler, I love it because it holds lots of cases.

I like the idea of getting an automatic timer, I usually tumble mine for like 6-8 hours, and I like corn cob media because it doesnt leave as much dust on the cases, especially as the media starts to get dirty.

I will have to check my local pet shop for media, great idea.

Speaking of moonclips, I bought 100 from Ranch for like $30. But from what I am hearing the Heathco moonclips are the best way to go. But I cant believe the price $9 each? A magazine for an automatic doesnt cost much more than that.

If I buy those for matches I will not be able to afford many and will and up re-loading them before each stage which I hate the thought of doing.

Maybe I should start another thread on this, but I am trying to get feedback on whether or not they are worth it, and for you guys that have them how many do you have?

Heath doesnt have any in stock right now, and I think I can get them somewhat cheaper from him directly when he has them, like $6.

[Bwana Six-Gun]

++1 On all the tips that have been posted here. Like Car$ I just have a Midway tumbler that I have been using for several years. When I come home from a match or range session I just de-moon all the clips and dump them in the tumbler and let her rip. It runs while I take care of all the honey-dos that allow me to go shoot when I want. Periodically I will take my moon clips and drop them in a mason jar that is about half full of Hoppe's #9 and let them soak for a couple of days, fish them out and wipe with a shop rag to get all the accumalted crud off. Before a big match I will load up and moon clip all my ammo and then cycle them all through the gun. To carry my match ammo I have a surplus 50 cal ammo can that I adapted to carry my moon clips, using an idea that I will admit I shamelessly stole from a post on here. Take a piece of 1 x 6 board and cut to fit the bottom of the can. Drill some holes in the bottom, and insert dowels. I used 1/2 inch since that was what I had at the time. Each dowel will hold four loaded moons. I can carry up to 72 loaded moons to a match. Never have to worry about reloading during the match. Have fun, that's what is so great about revolvers!

[Carmoney]

I just tumble my moonclips with my brass. They stay nice and clean that way! Don't try it with any of the "split" style clips, or you will get media in the splits. (I'm sure there's a joke there somewhere....)

[Lee Bell]

*********I posted this here becasue the reloading forum doesnt get get much traffic and most of my loads are going to be for a revolver.....

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I'm just getting into reloading and would like to know how you guys clean/prep you brass for reloading?? 40 and 45 acp. Thats it..Any help would be great.

Gary

What I do for my brass depends as least partly on what I plan to do with the handloaded rounds. If they're for competition or hunting, chances are good that I'll use new brass. If not new, I at least ensure it's all the same brand. It doesn't take a lot of difference in case construction to change pressure and velocity. Whil all my ammunition is more accurate than I am, there's no use giving up the small advantage consistency provides if I don't have to, and I don't.

I clean both new and previously fired cases with walnut media and Dillon Rapid Polish. I add polish occasionally. I clean new cases because some of them tend to hang up on the powder funnel of my Dillon 550B. I've tried corncob media, but it just doesn't work as well for me. YMMV. For a while, I used corncob to put a final polish on cases, but the difference was not enough to be worth the hassel, particularly since the 1/4 inch media I have is just the right size to get suck in primer pockets. I don't use it on finished ammunition because it's also the right size to get stuck in the JHP bullets I load most often. Most annoying. If I run across some finer corncob for a reasonable price, I may change back. I'm thinking about running what I have through the meat grinder I use to turn trash fish into chum. I won't know how that works out until I try.

I inspect my brass after cleaning and before loading it. If it doesn't come clean, shows cracks or has any other sign of deterioration, I toss it in a bucket and, when I've accumlated enough to make it worth while, I dump it in the bulk brass barrel at my rifle and pistol club. I don't think we get much for the brass, but anything we do get benefits the club as a whole. Since I pick up more .40 nd .45 brass at the range than I will ever load, any defect at all is enough for me to toss it. I'm more particular about 10mm brass. I may be the only person in my club shooting 10mm and, like most shooters, I lose a few cases every time I shoot. I'll have to buy more soon.

Once inspected, my brass it goes into boxes, separated by caliber. I don't worry about once fired, twice fired, whatever or, except as noted above, brand. If it shows signs of any problems at all, it never gets in the box. If it's good enough to keep, I figure it's all good enough for normal use. So far, so good.

I use carbide dies, which means I don't have to lube most straight wall pistol brass. I don't lube 9mm, 10mm .357, .40 or .45 cases. I do lube .44 magnum cases. They're the only ones, so far, that are difficult enough to size to make a bit of lube worth the trouble.

Hope this helps.

Lee

[Carmoney]

I toss my .45 brass when it splits a quarter-inch or more.

Edited November 20, 2006 by Carmoney

[hopalong]

Way back when I started all this shooting stuff (2001 with a Para Ltd gun) I too had questions similar to these and what I got for feed back and eventually what I settled with.

Tumbler..........Dillon small blue.

Dillon Xl650, with Auto case feeder, and Roller handle for minimum accessories.

(Yes it is worth it, as I have come to really appreciate the 800+ rounds an hour, could do more but that would get into work)

I use the same brand brass for Major matches, mixed stuff for all else.

You do not need to lube straight wall case brass, but it helps with speed and effort. I use Hornady One-shot.

Most of the time I use Corn media (small pet bedding as mentioned earlier) with dillion polish........(all this dillion stuff you can get from Brian )

Clean/polish with the primers in.........I only clean my Match Rifle Primer pockets(NRA Hi-Power)

During the winter lull in shooting I try to reload all I have on hand.........until I run out of components

If and when I hit a match with mud/wet I have walnut media just for that too.

.45 is a low pressure load compared to .40 and .38super so small cracks are allowable down to maybe about 1/4 inch from the top (similar to Carmoney).......I personally am not going to take that chance as I have access to as much .45 once fired as I want..........(and No I can't share sorry)

Clean Moonclips as needed, usually just drop them into the tumbler also.

Now for your moonclip question.

Hearthco vs. others............

There are several discussions on this in other threads, but it is worth repeating.

For every day use I use a mangerie of moons from Ranch, Midway, Brownells ect.......they all work good.

For Major matches I exclusively use Hearthco moons, they take the little excess play out and allow more consistant reloads on a reliable basis for me (remember what works for me may not work for you, but it is worth checking into).

Back a couple of summers ago I did some testing, on a average of 10 reloads I could average .25 seconds faster with Hearthco's vs. the others.......(side note, I could hit single reloads the same with both)

So.......worth it? Just depends on your attitude towards shooting.

Good luck, Good shooting.

Hopalong

[Northern Xtreme]

Was your .25 seconds savings per reload, or just on the total time for 10 reloads?

I am going to have to get some Hearthco's to try.

[Nemo]

Procedurally: What Pickles said.

I also use two automatic chamber checkers (both my sons with a Dillon case gauge each) and do 100% of the ammo.

Check out the tumbler deal from Berry's. When I bought it, it was the best deal for the $$.

[haras]

If any of you run across a 610 moonclip checker grab it for me please. I think one of these would come in handy if I had to reload clips while at the range. TKCustom ran out of them and won't have any more made because they were slow sellers.

[Lee Bell]

Here's one that I haven't seen mentioned yet.

Don't take the primers out until after you have tumbled the brass. I know of several people who tumbled primerless, and then loaded immediately (No, not me). What they didn't check was the small pieces of walnut that can lodge in the flash hole of the brass.

When they were shooting, no bang, just "pop". Trust me that sucks.

By leaving the primers in, any media left overs will be pushed out when you deprime.

Front Sight this month has a good article on things to look for when reloading, such as dryed mud.

When buying media I go to the pet store. They sell ground corn cobs and walnut shells for animal bedding. Costs $2-3 for 10 lbs.

The flash hole issue isn't much of an issue for those that use Dillon presses. The sizing die is also the decapping die. It will displace any left over media in the flash hole. I do, however, suggest looking in each case before dropping them into the reloadable supply, particularly by those that use some kind of polish with their cleaning media. On occasion, rare, but not exceedingly so, the polish can combine with the walnut, forming a paste that can partially fill the case.

I'm going to have to visit a local pet store to see if I can get the kind of corncob I want. What the local feed store has is too course.

Lee

[aerosigns]

(insert the sound of a Teletype here) Dateline Wal-mart ......

Wal-mart pet section.

Crushed walnut pet bedding 5.49 for 8 pounds.

You can clean brass with Iguana toilet paper apparently.