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J-point Mounting On Benelli Shotgun Rib


Scott G

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I also would like to know if this mount would work on a 1100. I like the idea of using a J-Point on a shotgun, but im not to keen on cutting the rib to do so.

i didn't like cutting the rib either-try ralph's solution...sits a little bit higher, but it's fine. drill and tap 2 holes and that's it.

post-2786-1162657781.jpg

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I am a firm believer in the "Lower Is Better" philosophy here. If you cut the rib away and mount it right on the bbl like JP Rifles does with their "on bbl" mount, you get a much more natural shotgun mount and cheek weld. If you mount the JPoint any higher than right on the bbl, you wind up "Prairie Doggin" to shoot. I think this is a lot worse trade-off than cutting some rib away. Even the mount that Butch uses require the head to be raised slightly compared to the normal shotgun cheek weld.

The mounts that go right on the bbl need to be glued in place with a high temp epoxie. Mine has stood up to 3+ years of real rough handling so far.

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Will JP work on a Benelli?

Who else can I send it to?

Also, is a Docter preferable to a Jpoint?

docter a much better sight, but if yer looking to mount one on a shotgun, on the barrel, ralph's in the only option. jpoint will go on either jp's mount or ralph's.

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You really want it on the bbl itself, the rib is just too high, even if the base of the sight is right on the rib. Think about it, you want the dot exactly where the bead, or fiber optic rod would be on a non-optic shotgun. That's the cheekweld/head position you want when you shoot a shotgun. Looking right down the bbl is what allows you to track and shoot. That's what shotgunning is/was all about back when I learned how to shoot skeet and trap.

You can mount it right on any shotgun bbl there is, Vent rib be danged, if you really want it there, put it there. The JP Remington bbl mount will probably fit the Benelli with a little carvin'.

Glue and a mount with a curve to fit the bbl is the only way to go. I put mine out near the end of the fore end rather than closer to the receiver like a lot of folks do. I went out until the bbl taper was gone to get as close to bore centerline as possible with the dot and then went a little further to get it out of the way of doing the Flip-N-Burn. It has never been an issue on props and barricades.

To mount it, I just hacked a chunk of rib outa' the bbl with a cutting disc on my Dremel. Then I took the JPoint mount JP sells to glue onto a 1" rifle scope tube and sanded it on a grit wrapped dowel the same size as the spot on the bbl I wanted until it fit like a glove and was low, low, low. Then I roughed up the bbl to get a metal to metal gluing surface and slopped a high temp metal epoxy made by Loctite (recommended by JP) into the join area and used a jig to hold it in place with the dot registered on a spot on the wall 20 feet away in my shop. The shotgun was also boresighted onto the same spot on the wall. I additionally used a level on the shotgun receiver and then on the fram of the JPoint to make sure they shared the same horizon line. When I took it out for a range test after 3 days curing, it printed slugs in the A zone at 35-40 yards ;-)

3 years later it is still on there as solid as a metal barnacle even after a whole lotta' slamming into abandonment boxes, barrels and racks. It takes a lickin' and it is still tickin' :-)

For usage on a shotgun I feel the Docter is only better for the lens being glass and more scratch resistant. The JPoint is way more rugged than anything mounting on a shotgun bbl can toss at it. The JPoint on my Open pistol takes a bigger beating in one match than the one on my shotgun has gotten in it's entire lifespan. I think the JPoint is up to this task ;-)

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The easiest way to mount a J.Point on a Benelli is as follows. Take the base of the sight The weaver type and mill a slot down the middle of the underside the width of the rib, leaving just enough matterial for two holes for anchor screws one in the front, one in the back. Drill two holes in the part of the rib right in front of the receiver before it swoops up, and tap them 6 48. install the base on the rib and then put the rest of the J.Point on and sight in. The dot will be right at the height of the fron bead and in perfect position for head placement. No prairie doggin ;) It took me about 20 minutes to do the whole job. no glue, no cutting the rib and at the right height! LIFE IS GOOD KURTM

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Kurt, I had to get the base of the JPoint sight itself below the top of the rib on my Remmy to get the dot where the bead should be. I am guessing from this that Bennie's have a lower vent rib than Remmie's do. This would also explain why JP does all their Remmy JPoint melt-in's the same way I do (or vice versa, actually).

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Naw the Benelli's rib starts off flat on the barrel and then kind of swoops up to the heighth of the main rib, it is in this flat area that you can mount the milled J.Point mount with 2 little screws. It puts the dot right on the front bead. The only ribs I like to cut are found at County Line BBQ :lol: KURT

BTW if it is mounted on the barrel you will never get the wondering zero found in some of the shotguns, both Rem and Ben!

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rich-who's we? and do you mean for a docter?

A guy here in North Carolina that I'm working with. He made a bad ass 45 degree mount for my AR that holds my JPoint and has a base plate for mounting either the JPoint or the Docter.

I'm working on something similar, using the M2 as a platform for working it out, but it should be universal and just vary the rib width.

As for making up the difference between cheek weld and dot height, why not just add a pad to the stock?

Rich

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