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Approved Steel 2


LPatterson

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In the Approved Steel? thread a poster quoted Appendix C1, C2 & C3, yet throughout the forum there are discussions about how to shoot 6" plates and in going through several old course books I have found 6" plates mentioned. My ruler shows that the minimum dimension of 20CM as stated in Appendix C3 is ~ 7 7/8", so where did the concept of 6" plates come from? The construction notes say a block of "wood" 2CM X 2CM 'should' be placed in front of the plate. Since should is not a requirement does that mean that there can be a piece of steel placed at the back of the plate holder to prevent the plate from turning or should the steel be at the front of the plate holder? Or can/should it only be wood so that a low hit below the actual surface of the plate will still score as a hit if the plate falls.

Since there are no calibration requirements for plates perhaps they should be used instead of poppers. The dimensions of plates are approximately the same as the calibration zone of a popper so the accuracy requirements would be the same without having to worry if it were set properly. This would remove the need for Appendix C1 and politically correct people would not have to worry that we were shooting at children when they see mini pepper poppers out there.

The remaining problem to deal with is how to protect the apparatus supporting the plate. We have all seen hits on the plate holder upright cause a reshoot for REF so how do we write a rule that covers protecting the plate holder? It has to be something common but obtainable throughout the world should IPSC decide to follow our lead. Since some clubs shoot indoors, at least during the winter, the design requirements would prohibit that it be driven into the ground. Perhaps some sort of stand that can be placed on top of the ground yet with protection for the upright.

We are a nation of innovators so perhaps we should start looking for solutions instead of just complaining about problems.

Would a poll asking opinions about using plates instead of poppers have any merit?

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I don't know why more clubs don't use plates.

They do have their own issues...which can be ironed out...but, they are light, easy to setup, cheaper, etc., etc...

There are cons...but, one of the biggest pros is that they don't require calibration. They either fall when hit...or the shooter reshoots the stage for a hit plate that didn't fall.

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We've use plates from our falling plate rack before. Our rack has plates with a metal strip welded to the back and a peice of pipe welded to it as the pivot point. I just got lengths of 4" x 4" treated timber, put one end in an upright (ours are old cultivator blades with a holder welded on) and screwed in 2 eye bolts on the back so that when the plate sits on top, you can slip a 1/2" x 5" bolt through one eye bolt, the pivot on the plate, and then the other eye bolt. Works well and you don't have to go through all the bending to reset and the timbers are cheap to replace when they eventually get shot up.

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Minimum size of a SQUARE plate is 15cm/side, or 5.9". I built some plate stands

out of some scrap I beam, and put a 3/8" square bar in front of the plate foot to keep it from turning sideways. Works fine. I cut the I beam at an angle, and what the shooter sees is the "I".

Biggest problem with plates is that they changed the rules in the 2004 book to read that if the plate falls because of a hit to the support/stand, it's REF and a re-shoot. Had quite

a problem with that at Area 1 in Missoula last year. Plates on tall stands, lot's of

re-shoots.

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I've seen a couple of plates fall when the stake was hit and we seem to just keep going. I was pretty sure it didn't seem right, but never knew the rules for sure on it. As far as using plates, I enjoy shooting at them. I would say have a standardized steel target for bigger matches, but leave things alone at the local level.

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I've seen a couple of plates fall when the stake was hit and we seem to just keep going. I was pretty sure it didn't seem right, but never knew the rules for sure on it. As far as using plates, I enjoy shooting at them. I would say have a standardized steel target for bigger matches, but leave things alone at the local level.

I see the same thing at level 1 matches---bullet clips the support stand, plate falls,

keep on going. However---it is a rule. 4.3.1.5/U.S. 4.3.1.5

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I was told, they try to avoid normal plates at the bigger matches. And instead try to use 'hinged' plates, to avoid the whole 'not falling off' or 'hitting the stake' problems.

Not that it's legal or not, just have less problems this way.

Any plates at the Nationals this year? If so what type?

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There are cons...but, one of the biggest pros is that they don't require calibration. They either fall when hit...or the shooter reshoots the stage for a hit plate that didn't fall.

Bingo!

The idea that a target has to measure power for this game to work is bogus. Plates are a perfect example of that.

The gun design, the recoil from the ammo fired through it, and the chronograph are the true measure of power. The targets should be there to score power only.

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