EricW Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 I think Phil Strader (gmshtr) posted on this a long while back. He was using Boeshield T-9 to lube and clean his brass prior to reloading. I bought 4 spray cans of it a couple weeks ago and have been giving it a whirl. Upsides: - Best brass lubricant bar none. Nothing I've tried reduces friction through the sizing die better. On un-Glocked brass, the handle on my 1050 practically falls down during sizing. Glocked brass requires *some* effort, but nowhere near the effort of un-lubed brass. - Does indeed seem to remove corrosion on brass cases. - Multi-purpose lube. Works great on other stuff. Guns, bike chains, battery terminals, etc. So you're not ponying up for something that's only good for one thing. Downsides: - Does not seem to dry to a non-sticky film like I had hoped. It really wouldn't matter if it didn't contaminate your hands at the range - but it does. The stickiness is really bothersome and I basically *have* clean my hands each time I handle ammo. I'm now simply tumbling off the lube after loading, which comes off readily with a little denatured alcohol added to the tumbling media and a couple minutes in the big blue tumbler. The lube does not cause any feeding problems....until....life gets dirty. A couple loaded mags hit the dirt yesterday and after that...my life was hell. Boeshield decidedly fails the "dirt magnet" test. (At least the Boeshield *I* got in the mail does anyway...) - Will cause squibs. Getting Boeshield inside the case is bad juju. My solution is to use a baking pan to lube the cases. I spray Boeshield in one end of the pan with the cases in the opposite side. 10 to 20 "frying pan flips" will then evenly distribute the lube over the cases without getting any lube inside the case. - Makes everything it touches waxy. I'm not sure I'm going to like cleaning the casefeeder over time. We'll see. Cleaning Boeshield out of the ammo bin was a little tougher than I thought. Conclusion: For today, for the purposes of reloading with the minimum amount of effort, Boeshield seems to be a great choice. I don't see any downsides to Boeshield over any other product on the market. All of them leave a sticky residue that has to be cleaned up sooner or later. And...when you buy 4 cans of it, it is far and away the most economical choice over competing products on the market. My next test is going to be to apply spray silicone just like I'm applying the Boeshield with the baking pan. That may yield an in-between solution of reloading effort where I don't have to tumble off the lube after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ima45dv8 Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Eric, Can you compare it to Hornady One-Shot, or is OS not available in your area and that's why you bought the Boeshield? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbine Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 I use Boeshield T-9 on my cast iron saw table and jointer table. it protects them but it does leave a sticky resdue if you don't buff the table. I never thought of using it as case lube. Is there residue build up on your dies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Eric,Can you compare it to Hornady One-Shot, or is OS not available in your area and that's why you bought the Boeshield? It's definitely no worse than OS. I've used OS but quit due to the expense and gumming. OS also did not work for me on rifle brass. I haven't tried Boeshield on rifle brass yet, but it's so slick I can't imagine it not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ima45dv8 Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Eric, Can you compare it to Hornady One-Shot, or is OS not available in your area and that's why you bought the Boeshield? It's definitely no worse than OS. I've used OS but quit due to the expense and gumming. OS also did not work for me on rifle brass. I haven't tried Boeshield on rifle brass yet, but it's so slick I can't imagine it not working. Since I'm still sitting on 3-4 cans of OS I'm well-stocked for a while. But when I do run low I'll give the Boeshield a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 I use this stuff on my outboard motor, and other parts of my boat. It seems to leave a pretty heavy, wax-like buildup which I like for corrosion protection, but not so sure I'd like in my reloading system. And, it causes squibs, if it gets into the case?? That's a pretty serious negative, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 I use Boeshield T-9 on my cast iron saw table and jointer table. it protects them but it does leave a sticky resdue if you don't buff the table. I never thought of using it as case lube. Is there residue build up on your dies? Boeshield leaves a residue on everything. Just like the lanonlin Dillon stuff and One Shot. And from a residue standpoint, I'd definitely put it on the "worse" side. I'm not sure there's a perfect solution to lubing cases, just ones that are more livable than others. We'll see if I feel the same way about the Boeshield 10K rounds from now. If Glocked brass wasn't an issue, I wouldn't mess with the lube at all. For now, the Boeshield really does do a stellar job of making guppy brass glide right through the sizing station. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam38 Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I use Crown 6078 Resin Bonded TFE Lubricant Premanent Film for lubricating brass and my magazines. It is for use with industrial dies and for sliding metal surfaces. It leaves a very thin NON sticky film that lets the brass just breeze through the die. It is sold at most tool shops for $5 a can. Much cheaper (and better I believe) than ones specifically sold to the reloading market. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscbob Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 EricW, How much are you paying for OS? I get it at midway for cheap and a can lasts me for months. Yes, it leaves a residue on the cases but I just roll the rounds around in a towel and remove most of it after loading. I want NO remaining lube on the case at all, including a dry lube, if possible. Why look further than OS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Bob, Nothing from Midway is cheap when you live on the Left Coast. It was five years ago, but not anymore. 4oz of OS is pushing 6 or 7 bucks at my local super-discount store. I also thought OS absolutely sucked for sizing rifle brass. Plus, I like multi-taskers. OS is a mono tasker. ==================================== Sam, I'll look that magic juju up. Sounds like a winner. Thanks for the tip! E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ima45dv8 Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 So far, I've only found the Crown price in case lots. Here's an example: Crown TFE Lube spray If anyone finds an outlet that will sell single cans, please let me know. I'll try anything once, and twice if I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I have used gallons of Boeshield on the insides of aircraft where it belongs. Its not even one of the better corrosion protection sprays out there, I prefer LPS 3 or the great but nasty Dynotrol for that. Dont use it on cases, you will not be able to clean it all off by tumbling and as it wicks like mad you will get squibs. Honady one shot is the best for pistol cases but does not have the friction reducers and anti gall properties needed for some rifle brass. Just clean it off with silicone spray and a towl. The best thing I have used for tough rifle brass is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The only problem is its not a spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I may try the Crown Lube if it is that good. Unfortueately, they don't seem to have it in stock at the moment CWN-06078L 10.5 OZ AEROSOL TFE LUBRICANT CROWN #6078 Manufacturer: Crown Availability:0 in stock. Your Price: $6.93 (per 1) http://www.jlindustrial.com/Crown/4294960715.html Corporate Headquarters J&L Industrial Supply 20921 Lahser Road Southfield, MI 48034-4432 1-800-521-9520 (Customer Service) 1-248-200-4200 (Offices) Distribution Centers / Showrooms J&L has two state-of-the-art distribution centers that offer next day delivery (at no additional cost) to 100% of the contiguous U.S. Chicago, IL 2701 S. Busse Road Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 http://www.jlindustrial.com/companyInfo/lo...s/locateUs.jsp# Detroit, MI 31800 Industrial Road Livonia, MI 48150 http://www.jlindustrial.com/companyInfo/lo...s/locateUs.jsp# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam38 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 You should be able to find the Crown lube (as well as a couple of other brands) at any shop that sells stuff to tool & die (production tools) makers. Ask a friendly machinist (or your gunsmith) where they buy their machines and supplies. Here, in Michigan, you can get the Crown lube at any Production Tools store (9 locations) and also at places like Harbor Freight and, I think, even some Farm Supply stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory_k Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 With carbide dies, why not just run the non necked brass dry? I've never lubed my 45 or 40 brass. Never had a stuck casing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 The reason we lube is for reduced wear on us! Try some lubed, then dry and you will see a big difference. I have a friend that turned 50 and got tendonititis in his right arm....it was from reloading.......Gave him some Dillon lube, and it went away with treatment and easing up on the reloading awhile. I will not load ammo without using case lube on my machines, unless it is around a 100rds for testing. I understand the need to find a different item to try, but I am happy with Dillon lube when I have it, and One shot when I cant find the Dillon lube. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 (edited) Dont use it on cases, you will not be able to clean it all off by tumbling and as it wicks like mad you will get squibs. So far, the cake pan applicator and removal by tumbling for 5 mins with denatured alcohol are doing the trick. I shot about 700 rds last week with no issues. I'll have put another 1500 down the pipe by Friday. I'll let you know how it goes. Keep in mind, this is an experiment, not a cult. I can leave any time I like without fear of retribution. Edited September 26, 2006 by EricW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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