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550b Questions?


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I am in process of acquiring a used 550B that has produced about 10K .45 rounds. Unfortunately, I do not shoot .45 and will be converting this to a .40 setup. To this end, since I have to purchase new dies, I am wondering what dies would be best for someone that will be shooting range brass with Precision Bullets (Redding, Lee, or stick with Dillion) in a Glock? Do I need an EGW die? Also, does it make sense to buy a new powder measure or should I be comfortable with the used unit? Any suggestions for tuning up/lubricating or changing out parts on a used press like this before starting out? I am new to reloading, so will have a lot of dumb questions.

Thanks,

Doug

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10K rounds is almost new.

Everyone had ides preference, I prefer:

Lee 'U' Die

Redding Comp Seater (for 45 I use the Dillon)

Dillon Crimp

In 45, the Lee 'U' die isn't as important, but it does help the rounds gauge cleaner.

The used powder measure should be fine.. If it's the spring return (old style) unit, make sure the springs are good.

A little Kroil on the major arm pivots helped my used one a lot.

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I like the U die for forty and use Dillon dies for the rest of the set up. You mentioned "range brass" and I am assuming you mean range pick up stuff that could have been fired once or ten times and in Glocks or other handguns.

If so, the U die is, IMO, important for resizing different brass fired differing times in different guns. There is at least one big thread here on U dies and there are, of course, differing opinions on them.

If I can, let me recommend you skip range pick ups and just buy either new or once fired, roll sized brass. Proper sizing, IMO, will be much easier with many less culls.

The U die will still be important, again, IMO, since you are using a Glock.

Bob

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Since I will be getting two tool heads with the setup, does it make sense to run the brass through a regular resize die before going to the U die?

Also, given the recommendation to use once fired brass, how many reloads can one typically get from a once fired casing? and although this may be quite anal, does depriming before tumble cleaning the brass help any?

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A few people with 1050's run through both dies, because they can do it on the same step.

You don't need to do it, 'U' die is fine by itself in stage one on a 550.

I don't keep track of reloadings for pistol ammunition. I'll lose it before it gets loaded too many times.

Don't worry about depriming first.. benchrest shooters, etc., may, but for pistols, it's not needed, especially for this type of shooting.

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I've recently switched divisions from L10 Single Stack to Limited....which means switching from 45ACP to 40S&W. I went out and bought the Dillon 40S&W die set and then started reading all of the posts about using a EGW U die do de "glockify" range brass....then read this post by EricW:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=carbide

I talked with Eric and got some of the specifics (like how much he took of the bottom) and thought "what have I got to loose?" by trying this. Took my die to the bench grinder and then belt sander to finish it up. I've loaded about 500 rounds of Glock Range Brass without any chambering problems (STI Edge) and no need for caselube or any of the other funny stuff people use trying to get the U-dies to work.

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Thanks for the help. Just two more questions and I will leave you guys alone:

1) where can I get a Lee U die; when I look in my Midway catalog I see alot of dies, but no U die??

2) is the powder die that comes with dillion presses universal as to caliber, or will I need to purchase a .40 dillion powder die?

Thanks again!!!!

Doug

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I'm somewhat surprised about the comment concerning avoiding roll sized brass. If it is once fired, as I recommended, I am unsure how it becomes damaged. I can understand it if the poster is referring to range scrap that is roll sized and may have been loaded many times, but once fired is once fired. All roll sizing does is reduce the case and especially the bottom of the case diameter to the correct specs, removing any hump as often found when fired in Glocks or other nonfully supported chambers, right?

I buy once fired, roll sized 40 brass from a friend who has a commercial reloading business. Many thousands of rounds later, no problems. I reload my own brass once more, using the U die and then let it lay there. 40 is so cheap I don't chance it again, though I very recently obtained fully supported barrels for all my 40s so there is no real reason not to reload it again.

Of course, avoid all this by buying new brass to start with.

BOb

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www.egw-guns.com has the LEE U-dies you are looking for. I recomend the U die for .40 as well as the LEE Factory Crimp Die (FCD). This will do one additional step to ensure properly sized rounds come out of your press.

And I bought my 550 used also. I use the same powder measure that came with it. 2 years later and I've had very little problems. Nothing Dillon couldnt solve over the phone or by sending me a new part (FREE). The powder die you speak of is only good for specific calibers. There is a chart on Dillons web-site that explains what dies work with what calibers.

Both of these dies are one-time purchases that are very in-expensive when you consider that they will last many, many years.

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Thats an interesting thread on grinding down the Dillion sizing die; I wonder why Dillion has not incorporated that change into their die manufacturing process so it become a non-issue and you don't end up sending your customers to the competition????

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I talked with Eric and got some of the specifics (like how much he took of the bottom) and thought "what have I got to loose?" by trying this. Took my die to the bench grinder and then belt sander to finish it up. I've loaded about 500 rounds of Glock Range Brass without any chambering problems (STI Edge) and no need for caselube or any of the other funny stuff people use trying to get the U-dies to work.

I run the U die on my 1050. No funny business. One Shot is not req'ed, it just helps. Try it with your set up, you will use it too.

'm somewhat surprised about the comment concerning avoiding roll sized brass. If it is once fired, as I recommended, I am unsure how it becomes damaged. I can understand it if the poster is referring to range scrap that is roll sized and may have been loaded many times, but once fired is once fired. All roll sizing does is reduce the case and especially the bottom of the case diameter to the correct specs, removing any hump as often found when fired in Glocks or other nonfully supported chambers, right?

Some of the damaged brass was many times fired, and some was not. The U die resizes normal glocked brass just fine. If the brass has been blown out worse, I don't want it. One of My issues with buying roll sized, is that you don't know what you are getting.

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OK wide45, now I understand and I agree. I buy my roll sized once fired brass only from my buddy who owns the reloading business, though there are several reputable dealers on the Net I'd buy from.

The danger is buying from someone you don't know or who doesn't have a proven reputation or not knowing what you are looking at/for when inspecting the brass in person (like at a gun show). I take the same precautions in buying once fired rifle brass-buy it from someone I know or who has a good reputation or I inspect it myself.

Most of us have known jerks who grub for range brass then resize it, clean and polish it and are found at the next local gun show with all this wonderful "once-fired brass, ready to load" at a good price.

I think if you are just starting out, new brass or once fired (I prefer it roll sized, too) from a known, respected source is the only way to go.

Bob

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OK wide45, now I understand and I agree. I buy my roll sized once fired brass only from my buddy who owns the reloading business, though there are several reputable dealers on the Net I'd buy from.

The danger is buying from someone you don't know or who doesn't have a proven reputation or not knowing what you are looking at/for when inspecting the brass in person (like at a gun show). I take the same precautions in buying once fired rifle brass-buy it from someone I know or who has a good reputation or I inspect it myself.

Most of us have known jerks who grub for range brass then resize it, clean and polish it and are found at the next local gun show with all this wonderful "once-fired brass, ready to load" at a good price.

I think if you are just starting out, new brass or once fired (I prefer it roll sized, too) from a known, respected source is the only way to go.

Bob

Bob, Can you identify a few reliable brass sources?

Thanks,

Doug

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