Cjblackmon Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 I'm going to replace the internals of my STI (Disconnector, Sear, Hammer, and Spring). The gun was going full auto on me on a several shots, I tweaked the Sear Spring in a little and I think that was more of a band aid fix more than anything, I was able to shoot a small match later that night. I'm thinking that I might want to replace all of the internals for the added peace of mind. I know a lot of you will probably say I don't need to replace this or that, but if it gives me the pychological assurance that all of it is replaced, I wont worry about it during the Area match and I can shoot at my normal pace witout worry of a malfunction. What brand recommendations do you guys have on these parts? Is the Hardened Sears like EGW and the Titanium Hammer Struts worth it to get. I don't care about the money, I want to know that I've got the best parts in my gun. I'll pay for the peace of mind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qstick Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I love the EGW sear and Koenig hammer combination. I believe I have a Briley disconnector in right now, but have had luck with most of the name brand disconnectors. Drop in the hammer and sear and tweak the sear spring and you can get a very nice 2lb or less trigger pull that seems to last very well. ZH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 The last few 1911s and STI/SV guns I had.. I was running the DK hammer with the EGW hard sear, disconnector and Ti strut.. had great results..trigger in the 1.5# to 1.75# range that held for a couple of years with no issues.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixgun Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I've had great luck with Dawsons "Super Group" trigger kit. It has a Koenig hammer, Cylinder and Slide low mass sear and disconnect, a 17 lb mainspring and a new sear spring. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 CS set also rocks. In my sv its koenig hammer egw sear. titanium strut and cup svi triglide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cjblackmon Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 Is there much of a difference in using the Hardend Hammer Struts? Are these ever prone to bending, or is just to assure that there's 0% flex to assure 100% Hammer fall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I think you should use Bob's trigger group. Here is the link;Bob's Trigger Group Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear23 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 CS sets in my STI trojan and STI edge. Dead reliable at 2# each for over a year now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdragon Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Koenig Hammer, EGW sear! +1 Ivan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Lombardo Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 I think its really hard to beat the extreme engineering parts set (C&S) I love george and his parts too, but I like the Extreme stuff a little bit better. The hooks are sharp as razors and sears look like jewels. A little bit more expensive than most, but worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dream Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Use The Extreme Parts Bob makes the parts for several other popular people on here Just my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38superman Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 (edited) I normally only field strip my gun, but last night I decided to tear it down a little further for a more thorough cleaning. I took the grip off and since this was uncharted territory for me, I decided not to tamper with the hammer, sear, sear spring, etc. Everything appeared to be accessable enough so I wiped it down as best I could, sprayed it with lubricant, and put it back together. I had one small problem. Once I got the grip back on, the hammer was locked up tight. I discovered that the trigger bow had gotten captured behind the sear, so I had to take the grip back off and correct this. When I got the gun back together everything worked normally but I discovered that I wasn't getting positive sear engagement. I made several attempts to cock it manually by pulling the hammer back with my thumb. It would lock back on occasion, but for the most part, it simply wouldn't engage the sear. The gun would cock the hammer 99% of time when operating the slide, but once in a while the hammer would follow the slide back down. At this point I would have to take the gun out of service because I'm afraid it would chain fire or A.D. It really doesn't matter as it is scheduled to go to the gun smith to be fitted with all new internals anyway. I cleaned it first because I just ran a match with it and I didn't want to send him a filthy gun to work on. However, I am curious what I may have done to cause this. Tls Edited August 5, 2006 by tlshores Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 TL It sounds like the leaf spring is not on the sear and disconnector correctly. This is really easy to do even if when you know how to strip & reassemble the gun pretty well. Sometimes the sear-spring moves while you're putting the MS housing back on. If you get a chance, before sending the gun off, have a friend come over & disassemble the gun & see what's what. It's something you need to know anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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