How Many Discard The Hammer Block...

[Waltermitty]

I think I have traced a roughness and inconsistency in my trigger return to the Hammer Block dongle thingy on my high-mileage gun. I was wondering what the popular consensus was on this part and whether it's worth the trouble (socially or otherwise) to make it work better.

The only use I can see for this poorly made sheetmetal doo-dad is to keep a broken hammer from falling on the firing pin, since the design of the hammer and the rebound slide assembly holds the hammer off the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled.

Am I missing any important function with this part? Or is it safe to store it with my inflatable dartboard and submarine screen doors?

[spook]

I voted yes, but that's because I own two that I bought withou them. I don't care much about them. In or out, it's all good

[HSMITH]

No way would I take one out, or run a gun without one for anything more than a controlled diagnostic session.

If you caught the hammer on something it could light the primer, if you drop it, etc.

[Waltermitty]

I should have been more clear that I'm talking about the Smith & Wesson 625 with this question, not any other brands.

[pskys2]

I sent a M29 to Clark and it was removed when it came back, and they didn't send it with the gun either. I about freaked, then I found out it was standard procedure for a Competition Gun, kind of like removing the "NEW" Locks.

Don't do it if you ever plan on using it for other than competition and put it back in when you sell it.

You can smooth it up and make it work, at least down to 7# or so.

It is a fail safe, just in case your Rebound Slide shears, or a kitchen table gunsmith gets overly ambitious on said slide.

[revchuck]

I guess I'm weird. I've replaced three in used guns I've bought. S&W used to send them out for free, but they charged me for the last one.

[Bubber]

Waltermitty, if it is the reason for inconsistancy, toss it. I have never found it to bother much, but you are correct there is the bump on the trigger return block that will keep the hammer from striking the primer, at least in my old Smiths. I doubt that I have any in the smiths that I have. I know that there is none in the one I shoot the most.

[underlug]

Waltermitty, if it is the reason for inconsistancy, toss it. I have never found it to bother much, but you are correct there is the bump on the trigger return block that will keep the hammer from striking the primer, at least in my old Smiths. I doubt that I have any in the smiths that I have. I know that there is none in the one I shoot the most.

+1 on the Clark trigger job, block missing. I don't worry about it much. One less rattle.

[Randy Lee]

I typically remove it for competition only guns USING my hammer. If I use the factory hammer with a spur, I include it. The HBS is a redundant safety as the rebound slide seat should prevent the hammer from contacting the frame based firing pin if the gun were to drop on the spur- assuming the gun isn't dropped from an absurd height. My hammer closely follows the contour of the frame, so it is less likely to get hit in a free fall.

It does add drag resistance for the trigger return.

[Waltermitty]

Thanks for the feedback and commentary. I think for my competition guns these parts will be tagged and stored along with the trigger lock parts and keys.

Randy, after working inside these guns for just a short time I can see why you chose to design and build a hammer for yourself. What a mess it is to sort out!