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Light Primer Strikes (moved From 2lb Trigger Job Thread)


boo radley

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Mod's: I moved this to a new thread, if you don't mind...

"...with Winchester small pistol primers?"

Have only used one K of WIN's and have been 100%. ...Know many guys withOUT high round cont guns that have had to r/r the channel liner due to sluggish or intermittent light strikes. After all it's just a crap piece of pllastic, ain't it? Am of the opinion that the OEM dull gray spring along with a bit of residue as lapping compound is more than enough to really eat on the liner when it "slinky's" over it a few thousand times.

Thanks, Bugs, Ian, & all:

I guess it's conceivable that the channel liner has become damaged. I saw a thread on the Glock forum about removing it with a bore brush w/out damaging it, but I might get a couple anyway, as a maintenance item, per your suggestion.

Since this set-up *was* working, I have to figure out what changed:

1) Wear and tear on something over time (maybe). My G35 was bought new at the end of this past August, and probably has 4-5k on her...Not a lot.

2) Ammo -- new batch of primers. Is it possible some runs are "harder"?

3) Ammo -- new press (Xl650). I tend to discount this, since it seems the primers are seated a LOT more consistently than with my last press - an SDB. Same bullets. Same primer brand.

Weird. Does work with the gray OEM spring, however.

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Boo, I don't get this one at all. 13,000 rounds through my G34 so far and no issues. I put in a Ralph trigger about 5000 rounds ago and no issues. How could you damage a striker channel?

Don't remove the striker channel until you have exhausted every other option. I hear they are a real PIA to put back in. Buy some crude cutter or brake cleaner and spray out the channel with the striker assembly removed. Run a Q tip down the channel and see if the cotton on the Q tip hangs up on anything. If so some bore solvent with a plastic brush and scrub and repeat. Clean her out good and put it back together and go bang.

Do you have the same problem with factory ammo? Could be not seating the primers fully in your new press. Sometimes people want to barely seat a primer because they think they will ignite. I have put a lot of pressure on primmers in a Dillon press and have never had one go off. If you are just geting them to pop in seat them a little harder so that the anvil bottoms out on the bottom of the primer pocket in the case.

If that doesn't work put the stock striker spring back in and see what happens. I have read of people making small rifle primers go bang with the reduced striker spring. Unless you can verify a problem with the striker channel I would not replace it. As much as I can work on my Glocks that is one job I would have a smith do instead of me.

Rick

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If you are using a reduced power striker spring....

My experience has been that the Reduced power striker springs wear out quickly and need to be replaced more often than stock Glock springs. (I've never had to replace a stock glock spring) When that reduced power striker spring wears out, light strikes are a problem.

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From Boo's original post: "1) Wear and tear on something over time (maybe). My G35 was bought new at the end of this past August, and probably has 4-5k on her...Not a lot."

It's not that the spring is bad yet.

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Boo, I don't get this one at all. 13,000 rounds through my G34 so far and no issues. I put in a Ralph trigger about 5000 rounds ago and no issues. How could you damage a striker channel?

Don't remove the striker channel until you have exhausted every other option. I hear they are a real PIA to put back in.

Too late! :)

I'm working from home this afternoon, and couldn't resist trying a trick I saw in the gunsmithing section of "glock talk," in which you can remove the liner with a bore brush. So I did. It looks...ok. There's a little bit of wear on the inside, but nothing I'd consider excessive, or even really noticeable. Just looks like a plastic black tube....(@ $2 each I have a few on order, anyway).

Rick, it seemed to go in easy enough. I hope there's not something to it I'm missing?? :(

Do you have the same problem with factory ammo? Could be not seating the primers fully in your new press.

Dunno. Excellent question, and what I'll try next when I get around to the range again. I have not tried factory ammo with the reduced strength spring, lately. As I said originally, it *could* be not having the primers seated deeply enough, but I'm pretty careful about that, and used to needing a solid shove from the SDB.

Stock spring -- no problems.

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I'm glad that it went well for you. I haven't tried it myself, but have read of people that have messed up multiple striker channels trying to reinstall them.

Clean the crap out of it and try some factory stuff as a control group to compare your reloads to.

Let us know how it goes,

Rick

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Iain, EXACTLY what I was thinking. How would a striker channel become damaged? By not removing it prior to Hard chroming or similar refinishing.

Boo, did you get that gun put back together and shoot it yet?

Rick

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*QUOTE*

The first, and mostly likely, thing is always primers that aren;t fully seated (well below flush).

This is essential if you are running a light striker spring. Also reducing the mass of the striker can help, having a very light striker spring is mandatory for a light trigger pull unless you get into the more exotic mods.

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Hey Boo,

Just got done re-certifying my Glock Armorer certification for the 3 or 4 time (cant remember which) and they advise on using a 3/8" wood or sheet metal screw to take out channel liner. Put in and start turning clockwise and the channel liner will easily come out. Plus, Glock advises NEVER installing the same channel liner you just took out, if you take one out, leave it out and install a new one.

Just FYI.

Hey Flex, I just posted about light primer strikes in the Sotelo trigger topic, can you move it here since this is where it deals with it. Thanks,

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Iain, EXACTLY what I was thinking. How would a striker channel become damaged? By not removing it prior to Hard chroming or similar refinishing.

Boo, did you get that gun put back together and shoot it yet?

Rick

In fact, I did - just got back. Between this issue, and the guide-rod business, I've probably shot 1500 rounds in the last two weeks.

Factory ammo -- Winchester White Box "Value-Pak" stuff (I think 165gr field point): same problem with the reduced power string. Most don't ignite, and there's a dimple in the primer. At this point, all I can think of, is the spring has simply worn out: maybe a lot more quickly with .40S&W than 9mm? There's about 4k on the springs, about half full power factor+, and the other half around 160pf, or so.

I reinstalled the gray OEM spring, and zero problems.

I ordered some Wolff reduced-power striker springs ( not sure if this is what Ralph uses or not), but my suspicion is, they'll work just fine for a couple k rounds. We'll see. :)

Truly, I think cmzneb is right -- what else can it be?

As far as the channel liner, I appreciate the advice from you and Kevin not to reinstall it, and I do have some new ones coming. But it really didn't get damaged at all, by being pulled out with a 9mm bronze bore brush --per the tip in the gunsmithing section of "glock talk," I just stuck a bit of the brush in there, turned, and it popped right out. I used the end of a plastic ballpoint pen to reinsert. Anyway, just another data point.

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Well if you having the same problem with WW white box you know that it wasn't your reloading technique and that is good to know.

"I reinstalled the gray OEM spring, and zero problems." That's interesting and points to the problem for sure. Sometimes you just get a fluke bad part.

Make sure to follow up and let us know what happens when you get the new reduced striker spring installed.

Glad that you are moving forward with resolving the problem. Take care Boo.

Rick

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I have seen those Wolf Reduced Power striker springs wear out after a couple thousand rounds.

They do make a difference on the trigger pull, but I decided the reliability trade off was not worth changing them out in my case.

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Truly, I think cmzneb is right -- what else can it be?

There is another issue that can cause light primer strikes with a reduced power striker spring. The striker tang is dragging on the trigger bar slowing it down slightly. If you have installed an overtravel stop, you may need to adjust it to allow a little bit more overtravel. My G34 (1-1/4 lb trigger, wolf reduced power striker spring) developed a light primer strike issue after about 1000 rounds. Yes, the stock spring would correct that, but there had to be another reason -- right? After close examination and a lot of dry fire time ( listen carefully when the striker falls ) I could hear an occasional thud instead of the crisp click make by the striker. This happened only while pulling the trigger with a light pressure. Pulling the trigger harder eliminated the problem. Answer -- not enough overtravel ( pulling the trigger harder will make the trigger bar flex more ). 3000 rounds after adjusting the overtravel stop, the gun goes bang every time.

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Well, a new Wolff 4lb striker spring arrived today, so I headed out to Ye Olde Indoore Range and Gas Chamber, for some more testing.

100 rounds factory ammo: zero light strikes; 100 rounds of my reloads and one light-strikes. In my limited experience now, at least with the .40, this reduced-power striker spring is a maintenance item. It occurs to me, too, that when I figured on 4k rounds, or so, through the gun, I hadn't been counting dry-fire, and I can't think how many times I'll rack the slide--click--rack--click, etc., since I'm trying to dry-fire daily.

I still think I'm going back to the stock spring, until I can play with primers/seating, and get 100% reliability for a couple hundred rounds. IMO, the reduced striker spring provides about 60%, or so, of the lightness in the trigger kit, so it's not a bad compromise.

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I still find it interesting and suspect something else, but my vote is for reliability over trigger pull weight everytime. If Sevigney and kick Arse with a stock trigger, you can too Boo!

I'm still puzzled over this but make it go bang every time you pull the trigger and you will be happier than a FTF even if it is one in 500.

Rick

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I still find it interesting and suspect something else, but my vote is for reliability over trigger pull weight everytime. If Sevigney and kick Arse with a stock trigger, you can too Boo!

I'm still puzzled over this but make it go bang every time you pull the trigger and you will be happier than a FTF even if it is one in 500.

Rick

Hiya Rick -- I'm happy to mail you the old spring, if you like, and you can see if it acts up in your gun. Just PM me your address....

The trigger is heavier without the 4lb striker spring, but still lighter than a stock G35, so I'm more or less happy with it.

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There is nothing to replacing the striker channel. Pull the old one out and push the new one in. It really is that simple. I wouldn't reuse one I pulled out with a wood screw though. They're cheap to replace.

Edited by Tweaker
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