H&k Usp: Competitive?

[USPshooter]

I am new to practical shooting, and recently purchased a new H&K USP in .40S&W. I was wondering which class to shoot in. I would assume production, but I understand that all scores are counted as minor. Would it be better to shoot a light loaded .40 in production, or go for the major power factor in limited or L-10.

Also, has anyone shot/seen anyone shoot a USP in USPSA/IPSA competition? I also shoot a para LDA in .40 and a Star 1911 in 9mm, and find that i am much faster and more accurate with the H&K.

[dfwmiket]

I'd probably think L10, but really YOU have to decide what's best for you.

I haven't seen any USP's, but that doesn't mean there aren't any. It's usually the indian more than the arrow, anyway.......get out and give it a whirl.

Welcome to the forums, too.

Mike

[Cjblackmon]

I am new to practical shooting, and recently purchased a new H&K USP in .40S&W. I was wondering which class to shoot in. I would assume production, but I understand that all scores are counted as minor. Would it be better to shoot a light loaded .40 in production, or go for the major power factor in limited or L-10.

Also, has anyone shot/seen anyone shoot a USP in USPSA/IPSA competition? I also shoot a para LDA in .40 and a Star 1911 in 9mm, and find that i am much faster and more accurate with the H&K.

You could shoot in "Production" or "Limited 10" with your USP. I've thought about shooting my H&K Tactical .45 in Limited 10 just for the hell of it because it's so accurate. As far as your power factor, your scores would be in "Major". I shoot an Edge in .40. To answer your other question, shoot a lighter load in .40. I beat myself up shooting Winchester White Box ammo for several weeks before someone showed me the light in shooting a 165 pf load versus the hotter round of WWB. 165pf is what you need to make power factor for a sactioned match, anything hotter than that, your fighting the gun for muzzle control.

[USPshooter]

Thank you both for your replies.

I think i will try L10 for my first shoot, going for the major power factor.

I also switched down to a 165g JHP, federal i think they were. they shot beautifully. I eventually hope to get into reloading myself, when I have the money.

[Harmon]

winchester 165 value packs.

save your brass...youll need those later.

will the USP go cocked and locked? or is it a decocker pistol?

if it will go cocked and locked...do it and shoot it in limited10..and practice..its really not the gun.

[USPshooter]

It's a DA/SA so it can be ready cocked and locked, or DA. thats one of the main reasons I purchased it. I read up some other threads on factory ammo and I will be going with the Win white box 165s, as I'm shure they will make major out of the H&K poly barrel.

[Bigbadaboom]

A good friend of mine shoots a .40 USP Expert in Limited and does quite well with it.

[baa]

I've thought about shooting my H&K Tactical .45 in Limited 10 just for the hell of it because it's so accurate.

Sure you are Your going to leave that Edge at home?

---

I have seen some people use USPs in IDPA SSP and do well with them. I have not seen one in USPSA matches, but I would agree that they would probably do just fine in production or L10.

[Morgan]

I shoot a USP45f in L10, and usually do okay (don't talk to me about stage 4 today). The USP is also my duty gun, and I quite like it - accurate, NEVER jams, fairly fast, and it's fun to beat people with a weird (for IPSC) gun. I know I'll get an STI/custom eventually, though.

I've made B class, just barely, but I can tell you what works for me with a USP.

First - reload for power factor and recoil impulse. 165-170 pf is much easier to control than 180-190, and different powders/bullet weights feel different and work differently.

The stock sights are okay, but I've found that thinning the front and opening the rear up help a ton with speed of aquisition and a bit with accuracy. I have long arms, which exacerbates. My front sight is at .120", which is as thin as one can go with my duty Trijicons. My rear is opened to .160". Start by thinning the front, then open the rear if you feel it's necessary. Stock are about .130 front, .150 rear.

Skate or stair tape helped me quite a bit. I put 3M stair tape on the frontstrap, under the trigger guard, and on the sides of the grip. I put skate tape on the backstrap, as the stair tape was too grippy to adjust my grip quickly if my draw wasn't right.

You have to shoot high thumbs, just like a 1911/2011 platform. I've installed the safety/no decock plate ($10 and two minutes) to avoid inadvertant decocking. My long monkey thumbs required trimming back the slide stop, as I occasionally bumped it, and while it never caused a problem I didn't like it (another $20).

The Match trigger group (about $100, and easy to install yourself) is WONDERFUL, worth every penny.

Enjoy the games and your new gun!