Merlin Orr Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 I can't believe I am doing this but I am going to start looking for a 625.... I just gotta try it! What do I look for in a used gun? What are the features that work best? Length, age of gun and etc. What is a resonable cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 (edited) Check to see that the crane locks up tight. When you look at the top of the crane when it is closed there should be no gap between it and the barrel. There should be no dings on the crown of the barrel, the cylinder spins freely, the action works smoothly ( it does not have to be light). I've seen used 625s locally from 500 - 700 dollars. One of the local stores sells new ones for $569. If you plan on shooting IDPA get a 4 inch. If you are going to shoot USPSA or ICORE go with the 5 inch. I find it has better ballance and I enjoy the longer sight radius. After you find the one you want you will probably want to change the grips to fit your hand... have the cylinders chamfered, maybe have the action tuned. From there you can go crazy if you want. Get 100 moon clips from Ranch Products for $25.00 and a demooner tool. Shoot, shoot and shoot some more. Edited January 2, 2006 by AzShooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Merlin; Most guys like a 5" for the extra sight radius and ease of making power factor. The gun should look clean and not too messed with, though revolvers tend to stand up to punishment well. Check that the cylinder doesn't slide back and forth to much when it's closed (endplay) or side to side (cylinder alignment). The bore should be just like any other gun, clean, unpitted, and with definate rifling. It doesn't hurt to try to find a gun with a good trigger from the start, but a trigger job is the first modification you should make so this isn't essential. At the same time you should have the charge holes chamfered. The only 625's to stay away from are some of the 625 "Model of 1988" guns. Do a search in this forum for "floating hand" for more info. All the ones made since 1989 (duh!) are the newer style and should be fine. The whole MIM vs. Old School internals isn't that important unless you want a Randy Lee trigger job. Look to pay between $450-$550, but your results may vary. Good Luck and welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 Rob During my search on the "floating hand" issue I ran across one of your posts about barrels. Specifically about the legality of heavy(er)/longer barrels - aftermarket being deemed legal by those who "count" in such matters. IF you had a big fat barrel installed would this be advantages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Most guys feel "No" and I would tend to agree. The heavy barrel may mitigate recoil some but would slow your transitions down. I use heavy barreled revolvers in other games and they're great for staying on one target, but lugging them around a field course can be a chore. The factory 5" tube is a great balance of recoil dampening and transition speed. At the Nationals last year out of 20 revolver shooters 18 had 5" factory tubes. Smith used to make a 6.5" half underlug barrel for the Model 25 (older, blued version of the 625) that many guys are fond of, our own Pat Sweeney uses one in competition. The 6.5" barrel is of similar weight to the 5" full underlug, but has the longer sight radius of a 6.5" barrel. Part of the point of the post about fitting heavy aftermarket barrels was simply the fact that "it can be done". When I asked "somebody who counts" I mentioned that exact scenario to establish what was legal and what was verboten. If they allow something as off the wall as a Shilen 8.5", thick as a telephone cable barrel than anything else should be legal. There was some conjecture as to whether the barrel had to be "factory made" or "factory offered". I was informed that the purpose of the "factroy offered" barrel clause in the Revolver rules applied to barrel length only, not to who manufactured the barrel. So long as the manufacturer offered a barrel in that length on that model (up to a maximum of 8.5") you could fit a barrel of that length, no matter who made the barrel. Diameter, weight of the barrel, or type of underlug is not addresed in this rule. Mind the "two ounces more than factory weight" clause, though. But my understanding is this rule is not stricly enforced (anybody here ever had their gun weighed at a match? Anybody, any gun?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 Thanks for the info, Rob. So from what I have read it is as simple as getting a 5" 625 of one of several varieties, a butt load of moon clips and a simple spring set replacement to (just) get started. If you want to do it up right send the gun to someone like Randy Lee and start out with the best. After that its what you put into it determining what you get out of it - the same as any other division. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Thanks for the info, Rob. So from what I have read it is as simple as getting a 5" 625 of one of several varieties, a butt load of moon clips and a simple spring set replacement to (just) get started. If you want to do it up right send the gun to someone like Randy Lee and start out with the best. After that its what you put into it determining what you get out of it - the same as any other division. Bingo. It's all about what you do with the equipment. If you're planning on a Randy trigger job (I have one, they're great) you must have a 625 with frame (inertia) type firing pin, not the one's with the firing pin fixed on the hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 According to the new IPSC rule book for Revolver Standard Division Modifications such as weights or other devices to control and/ or reduce recoil are prohibited. I'm not sure, but I think this would eliminate a heavy replacement barrel even though it may be the same length as an OFM barrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinMike Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 I found my 5" 625-3 Model of 1989 on an auction site for $485, in excellent condition. New ones are only about $100 more around here, but I like the older ones with no silly lock. A trigger job was about $70. I replaced the sights with an SDM FO front and Millet target rear, for around $65 or $70, if I remember. Lucked out and found a Miculek grip on ebay for $35! I do still need to get the cylinder holes chamfered. I guess that will come out to somewhere between $700-800 for the complete tricked-out six shooter. Here's a pretty good write-up I found on checking out a used revolver: Revolver Checkout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 According to the new IPSC rule book for Revolver Standard DivisionModifications such as weights or other devices to control and/ or reduce recoil are prohibited. I'm not sure, but I think this would eliminate a heavy replacement barrel even though it may be the same length as an OFM barrel The key is in the text. When I asked the powers that be I asked about bull barrels specifically and was told they were legal. The rule you site concerns "weights or other devices", a barrel is not a weight or other device, it's a barrel. If taken literally than grips are illegal, as they are a "device" designed to control recoil. The intention is to prevent somebody from bolting on a chunk of old sewer pipe to their gun. Trust me. I've seen it done. I appreciate where you're coming from, but I made sure to cover this at the Nationals when I had the chance. The only provisio that I was given is that there's a new rulebook coming out soon, and anything's possible (though I doubt the BOD and IPSC are really focusing on us hard-core revolver gamer's that are using our incredible equipment advantages to win all the matches from the Open guys ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 3, 2006 Author Share Posted January 3, 2006 Nice link, Mike. Thanks to all that contributed. Now I feel somewhat confident of getting a gun that I can use without going through to expensive of a learning curve. The questions on the heavy barrel were as much to see if there was any "secret barrel" knowledge out there that I needed to exploit... as any thing else. I much appreciate the answers and input on my question. I think I can now start calling my "gun show" buddies and see what turns up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 Current guns on one of the "auction sites." Which one? All are new guns. I have had little luck finding a good used gun. Smith & Wesson 625 .45 Acp 45 5" N Frame Stainless Smith & Wesson 625 625JM .45 ACP Jerry Miculek 45 S&W Smith & Wesson 22 Thunder Ranch .45 ACP 45ACP Smith & Wesson 625 .45 Acp 45 4" N Frame Stainless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Current guns on one of the "auction sites."Which one? All are new guns. I have had little luck finding a good used gun. Smith & Wesson 625 .45 Acp 45 5" N Frame Stainless Smith & Wesson 625 625JM .45 ACP Jerry Miculek 45 S&W Smith & Wesson 22 Thunder Ranch .45 ACP 45ACP Smith & Wesson 625 .45 Acp 45 4" N Frame Stainless For USPSA, #1. For IDPA, #4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 Well. I have about an hour to bid on a nice 1989 - 625 with the hammer firing pin. Looks like a good gun. Now - I understand Randy's trigger jobs are for the inerta type systems. Is the hammer firing pin model a negative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you want a Randy new trigger job the older style is a negative. But I'm sure he can still slick it up real well for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Randy will have to make the pull a few ounces heavier to keep it reliable, that's all. Not a problem. (So did you get it??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Randy will have to make the pull a few ounces heavier to keep it reliable, that's all. Not a problem. (So did you get it??) Paralyzed by indecision. Let it go by. I really like the thought of the hammer style firing pin but I want to get the best gun for the job. I thought and thought and then just sat on my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Merlin, If you want a revolver for both USPSA and IDPA the 4 inch model is fine for both, and not a problem in USPSA.....I shot a 4 inch 610 as well as my 625s just had that really terrible reload every now and then with it. On the firing pin hammer, I don't have mine as light and as radical as Randy and Carmoney and am running mine at 6 pound double action pull (all work done by me) and getting 100% reliabilaty. BTW I have 3 with the firing pin hammer and they all do this. New or like new guns are not too much of a worry, they are all pretty much the same. I myself prefer non Performance Center guns, the cost above a standard gun for what you get different is not worth it....Plus I do all the work on mine any way to get what I want. Good luck with it. HOPALONG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 Well, I will have my $$ in the mail tomorrow for a 625 - 5" bought from one of our Forum members. I am off and running - however slowly it might be.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Keep us informed..that is the one thing I never shot in USPSA/IPSC...revolver.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 Keep us informed..that is the one thing I never shot in USPSA/IPSC...revolver.. No comes the fun part. Trying to figure out all the other "stuff" you need to actually shoot the danged thing.... I love shopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Here's some suggestions: -Demooner. Looks like a piece of pipe with a shelf on it to make removing brass from the moonclips easier. DIY types can make one themselves out of an old golf club. -Remooning tool. There's a bunch of these out there. They really aren't necessary for the .45, but can be for the .38 Special/Super moons. I use channel locks. -Holster. Safariland 002, CR Speed, and Speed Sec seem to be the most common. All are fast and reliable. Depends on how much you want to spend or what appeals to you. For IPSC I use the Speed Sec and like it. I used to use the Safariland and still use it for other games. If I had to buy another one I'd get the CR Speed after my experiences with one for my Limited/Open gun. -Moonclip Holders. 6-8 of these seems to be the average number on most guys belts. There are a few types: The type with an aluminum post in the middle, the type with the plastic insert with six slots (these can be used with 8 shot moons, however), and the Bladetech two-for-one Kydex holders. I use 8 of the plastic insert type. -Moonclips. For the .45 you can get away fairly cheaply, roughly $0.30 to $0.50 a clip and the quality is nice. The .45 clips are solidly built and last forever. Although I don't use his stuff I will plug Dave Hearth. I've handled his clips and they're very nice and well made. It seems guys have a set of "Race Day" moons from Hearthco that they use only at the big matches. -Sights and Grips. This is all personal choice. Search around the forum for some ideas on what guys use. There are LOADS of grip choices, and almost as many sights. You'll notice there's not a whole lot going on equipment wise in Revolver. There really is no equipment race in this Division. As long as it has six holes (there's bound to be some jokes about that line) you're in business. Guys make 610's work great, and there are even guys using non-moonclip guns with great success. You do, however, have to know how to reload fast and to break down a stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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