spook Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 (edited) I've found this timer on Saul Kirsch's Website. It's kind of neat, because you can put it on loop, and I like the "Are you ready, standby..." thing it can do. I was just wondering if it's accurate. Somehow I don't quite trust it, because I got under 1.5s for a 'draw shot reload shot' at 7 yards in dryfire quite consistently. And I haven't been training with the Glock for that long I tried timing it with a stopwatch, but I can't confirm 100% if it's inaccurate. Edited January 1, 2006 by spook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassy knoll Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 I have been using this timer on my laptop in conjunction with SteveAndersons dryfire book because the volume is controllable compared to my real RUReady timer. As far as being accurate it is as much as anything done dry fire, on the range with ammo I will add as much as 50% to my best dry fire times to my actual cold times, the cold live fire times are the only ones that I really count because that is how I will be at a match when dryfiring I have learned that the only times that count are when sight picture is perfect, it is too easy to get sloppy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 (edited) Spook, Accurate? If you are running Windows, the timer can be pretty accurate to at least 10 milliseconds (0.01 sec) as long as Windows does not decide that something else is more important to run than the timer program. So the answer, in the case of Windows, is sometimes. I like to use Matt Burkett's dry fire drills on Matt's website. I don't typically use the computer screen as the target although the swinger animation has it uses. That good thing about Matt's drills is that you get the verbal commands as well as a random start with par time available. Verifying par times is interesting. If you are doing well, the only sound that you probably should be aware of is the *start* of the start beep. Then focus goes elsewhere in the drill. I found that I could not reliably say if I met a par time or not. So, for verification, I run a audio tape recorder to hear the "shot" and the timer to see if I really beat it. This only works, of course, if you actually pull the trigger. If you use some other method of signifying the "shot" you have to factor in the reaction time to being ready to signal and the signal process it's self. I have been told that a timer beep lasts 0.3 seconds so there is a possible 20% error so when during the beep did the event occur is difficult to judge. I guess the thing to do is to use the computer stuff to help judge pace and go do live fire to see where you are really at. Oh yeah, Happy New Year! Chuck Edit: Ooops, I didn't relalize you could use the internal audio files or link .wav files to the RUReady thing. Sorry. Also, on real timer volume, I put tape over all the orfices on my timer to quiet it down. That takes the sound level down to about where it is un-muffled when I have hearing protection on. Edited January 1, 2006 by ChuckS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted January 1, 2006 Author Share Posted January 1, 2006 Thanks for the relpies guys (and a Happy New Year too ) I will run the drills with my real timer and the Computer Timer again to see if there's a difference. I seem to be way too fast with the Computer Timer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 (edited) I do the draw, shot, reload, shot in dryfire with the (stock) Glock. For me, it puts me under tension (which is what I am after on this particular drill...forces me to execute on the edge). I do decreasing PAR times to get down to the area of 1.50 seconds (Pact Mk-IV on random start). I'm doing the drill closer than 7y too. I usually pick a lamp shade or something for this drill. That allows me to drop mags over the bed or couch or something. I do suggest dropping mags with the Glock. They can come out of the gun slow...requiring the proper angle. Which needs to be practiced. At this speed, if you aren't doing everything perfect, you will be beating the mag drop and you will end up shoving the old mag back into the gun with the new mag (since the old mag won't have cleared). Keys here are getting on the mag button quickly and making sure the Glock is at the proper angle to let the mag fall out with little tension/friction. Anyway...all that to say this... I don't know how many shooters in the world are doing this particular drill...with a Glock...but, I am one of them. It's one of my favorites. Those 1.50's are doable. But, they are on the edge. I certainly think you have the skills. If you are hitting them fairly easily...well...I guess, make them harder? Edited January 2, 2006 by Flexmoney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted January 1, 2006 Author Share Posted January 1, 2006 Thanks Flex! I tried the same drill with a regular timer (CED) which has a longer beep. Maybe that makes a difference. It's not so much the reload drill that made me wonder if the timer was OK, but just hitting draws. With my revolver, I had a hard time getting point blank draws of lower than .6, but with the Glock (and this timer) I get them at point blank range. I still have the feeling it's not accurate though. If I put the timer on .1 seconds, the time between the start and the par beep sounds too long. I do drop the mags for the reason you mentioned. I shoved a couple of mags back into the gun doing this drill Working with this program made me wonder though. What if there's a difference between real timers (in matches)? I don't think they're ever checked for accuracy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 A good while ago AMERICAN HANDGUNNER did a test of shot timers. They found that all the timers were quite accurate. They did say that different brands would show a slightly different time to the first shot, but all were esentially giving the same results after that, resulting in OAL times that would have a small but predictable difference by brand. The conclusion was that all the timers tested were good, but in a match situation, all the competitors on a particular stage should be run with the same brand of timer. Thats what I remember anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Thanks for the relpies guys (and a Happy New Year too )I will run the drills with my real timer and the Computer Timer again to see if there's a difference. I seem to be way too fast with the Computer Timer You might want to check that your computers timer is ok.. there are programs out there that can check.. if it's running slow, then you'll get what you see. The major difference I know of between the various timer brands is around how long the start beep is.. some use 0.3 seconds, and some 0.5 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Di Vita Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 The timer won't work effectively on anything under a .6 par time as both the start and stop beep are .3 seconds in length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 Thanks guys, I checked and the computer is fine. I ran the drill only once (forgot the drill and did it with my last two bullets ) in live-fire today and got a 1.88. Just glad I can use this cool tool to train at home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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