Holster For 638?

[rtr]

Just got an S&W 638 for carry, interested in recommendations for a pocket holster and other useful accessories, thanks.

[cliffwalsh]

Check these guys out: http://kdholsters.com

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

When RJ gets back from vacation check him out http://hedleyholsters.com/

Where do people from FL go on vacation this time of year????

[revchuck]

Just got an S&W 638 for carry, interested in recommendations for a pocket holster and other useful accessories, thanks.

Bianchi Speed Strips for spare ammo. For ammo, the "old school" choice is 158 grain +P LSWC-HP by either Remington (my choice) or Winchester; "new tech" choice is Speer's 135 grain +P "short barrel" load.

[DougCarden]

+1 on the above posts. I use a Renegade ankle holster with my mo.49 as well. Good JUJU that you can forget about. Mine sports a XS big dot tritium front and headshots up to 15yds are a breeze. I usually carry Corbons or the old Treasury load when I find them. I will be checking out the new Speer load as well. Good luck with your new "reliable".

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Forgot to add that my J frame is soon to sport Crimson Trace grips. Borrowed some and liked them for a pocket gun.

Regards,

[Carmoney]

In my opinion, a pocket rig is not a place where you want tight, high-quality, hand-boned leather. You want something that helps break up the outline of the gun, lets it come out fast and easy, and protects the gun from sweat. I have used the original Bob Mika Pocket Holster for many years. Mika's own website calls them "ugly but effective."

http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/

They used to be $7 apiece, but I see they're now up to $16. (Dang inflation.) For .38 Spl., I carry the old 110-gr. +P+ Treasury loads from my stash. My current J-frame is a 340SC, and it gets Federal .357 125-gr. JHP.

[rtr]

Thanks for the info guys. Can anyone give me some instruction on the proper grip for a revo in general, and more specifically on this small? Thanks.

[wlktheduk]

I'm assuming that you're right handed. Also, what type of grips (Hogues, Pachmayr's, Crimson Trace laser grips, factory) is also a factor.

But, I've found that one thing about a J-frame is that it helps to grip the revolver as high up on the frame as you can do so comfortably, without interfering with hammer travel (when it moves in double action mode, to fire the revolver.

Curl the right thumb down, so that the edge of the cylinder release does not make contact with the thumb. Allowing the thumb to make contact with the edge(s) of the cylinder release usually results in bleeding (at least with me, using Airweight S&W's with +P ammo loads) Also, bringing the thumb down seems to give me a firmer hold/grip on the little wheelgun.

Trigger finger (IMHO) should rest on the trigger on the crease between the first and second joints, for better leverage to pull the trigger with.

Depending on the grips used, the little finger may have to be curled under the base of the grips.

The support hand (if shooting with a two-handed grip) should wrap around the firing hand. I place my support hand thumb so that the pad is on the fingernail of the firing hand thumb, in such a way that I might leave a thumbprint on the fingernail. This helps keep both thumbs curled down, out of the way of the cylinder release (firing hand thumb) and the trigger finger when the trigger is pulled to the rear (support thumb)

If I use the thumbs forward grip (as used on an automatic, with thumbs pointing forward parallel to frame) I have found that the support hand thumb is too far forward, and makes contact with my trigger finger, when I pull the trigger in double action

This works for me, with a J frame. I do use a somewhat different grip on the bigger (K/L/N) S&W revolvers, because they have more to hold onto to begin with.