Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Canik Rival-S with all the goodies!


ngodwetrust21

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Trigger on the Rival-S is a bit heavier than what the original Rival is by at least .75 lbs. 3 lbs is what it is breaking at with the same internals that I use with the polymer Rival. Freedomsmith trigger works great.
 

I could not even get the ejector assembly out to polish those parts, it is in there so tight. No idea what I am going to do at the end of the season when I need to break it down for a full cleaning. Going to need someone smarter than me to figure out how to get that thing out. Maybe I just have a really tight fitted one.

 

This is what I have done so far:

 

Polished internals on the slide. 29 Newton striker spring from Sprinco, competition trigger return spring from Sprinco that I stretch out a little to lighten it up, competition firing pin safety plunger from Sprinco, Pro style trigger from Freedomsmith, and a Wolff steel guide rod for Glock with a 15lb spring.

 

Going to try and get it out tomorrow for some live fire and see how it goes. More to come.

 

6C8FF473-BECA-42C9-859E-5B85A7408451.thumb.jpeg.637d3d9cea06b441e97910d17aa17a89.jpeg

 

 

Edited by ngodwetrust21
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, TheChef1 said:

Nice I’ll be working on mine today. What did you end up polishing?  


safety plunger, firing pin, and what I could get to on the top of the trigger bar where it depresses the safety plunger.

Edited by ngodwetrust21
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, ngodwetrust21 said:


safety plunger, firing pin, and what I could get to on the top of the trigger bar where it depresses the safety plunger.


So after shooting the Rival-S today, I still need to do a little more work on it. It had zero failures and is just as accurate as the other. Extremely soft shooting. Magazines come out easier and do not get hung up. 
 

The complaint I have is when shooting doubles or a bill drill with it. With the polymer frame I can stack one shot on top of another, but with this one it doesn’t track in recoil like the other. The sights settle a little higher than where they left from. This is noticeable in slow motion video as well. Thinking I will bring the 16 lb recoil spring with me next time and see if that fixes it. Just need a little more forward momentum to get it to settle a little lower than what it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What recoil spring weight was giving you the higher followup shot?  I have 12-13-14-15-16 ready to tune.  Also, ammo brand and weight would be helpful too.

Thanks for sharing the info!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, WxGuy said:

What recoil spring weight was giving you the higher followup shot?  I have 12-13-14-15-16 ready to tune.  Also, ammo brand and weight would be helpful too.

Thanks for sharing the info!


I had the 15lb in there today. The 15 lb was absolutely perfect in the polymer frame. 147 gr Brass Monkey loaded to 130 PF. 

My thinking on why the 15 lb isn’t working just right for me is that the same additional weight making the gun recoil less is also making the slide coming forward push the gun back down less because of the additional weight in the frame as well.

 

Going to try the 16 lb next. Just needs a little bit more coming forward to push it back down.

Edited by ngodwetrust21
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ngodwetrust21, 

I'm getting my darkside Monday. I want to put in a freedomsmith  trigger and the springco trigger bar spring. In the past I have done this on a few polymer caniks.  I basicly took everything out of the frame and then put the the trigger on bar and reinstalled everything with the new new trigger bar spring. It looks like you did your parts install with disassembling the gun. How do you do that? I'm

 trying to avoid dinging up the cerokote. Thanks, Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, 1steelshooter said:

ngodwetrust21, 

I'm getting my darkside Monday. I want to put in a freedomsmith  trigger and the springco trigger bar spring. In the past I have done this on a few polymer caniks.  I basicly took everything out of the frame and then put the the trigger on bar and reinstalled everything with the new new trigger bar spring. It looks like you did your parts install with disassembling the gun. How do you do that? I'm

 trying to avoid dinging up the cerokote. Thanks, Mark


step one would be taking the slide stop / release out of the gun. Then you should be able to push the trigger bar back far enough and lift up on it with a small punch from the ejector assembly to take the spring off the trigger bar. After that, it is simply resting the trigger up against the frame of the gun and punching the pin out that holds the trigger shoe to the Trigger bar.

Edited by ngodwetrust21
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a confession to make. I prefer the polymer rival to the steel frame. 
 

I shot a USPSA match today with both the Polymer and Steel frame. Did 8% better with the polymer frame and felt much more comfortable with it. The steel frame does recoil less, but I find the recoil to be more predictable with the polymer frame. Not to mention the gun handling is easier with the lighter gun.

 

Another thing I like better on the polymer is the trigger. Trigger is just lighter than the steel with all the same components. 
 

Going to stick with the polymer for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Run the steel gun (put it back to stock) for 4 months non-stop then switch back to the polymer and let us know how it went.  Steel is going to tune differently than the polywag.  You have made a ton of changes based around the poly gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ngodwetrust21 said:

I have a confession to make. I prefer the polymer rival to the steel frame. 
 

I shot a USPSA match today with both the Polymer and Steel frame. Did 8% better with the polymer frame and felt much more comfortable with it. The steel frame does recoil less, but I find the recoil to be more predictable with the polymer frame. Not to mention the gun handling is easier with the lighter gun.

 

Another thing I like better on the polymer is the trigger. Trigger is just lighter than the steel with all the same components. 
 

Going to stick with the polymer for now.

Weird the trigger on my steel was way better stock for stock than the polymer the polymer was gritty and had a false wall and the steel didn’t have it at all. With the freedomsmith and springco on the steel it’s like 2 lb 10oz the polymers are about 3lb. 
 

I shot a match Thursday night and it didn’t go well but that was mostly my fault. We’ll see what happens tomorrow. I just mounted the dot and didn’t zero it. Hopefully it’s close since I took it off one of the polymer rivals. The recoil impulse is definitely less but I agree with you I like how easy it is to manipulate the plastic gun. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, WxGuy said:

Run the steel gun (put it back to stock) for 4 months non-stop then switch back to the polymer and let us know how it went.  Steel is going to tune differently than the polywag.  You have made a ton of changes based around the poly gun.

He made changed for the better though. Why would he put it back to stock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, TheChef1 said:

Weird the trigger on my steel was way better stock for stock than the polymer the polymer was gritty and had a false wall and the steel didn’t have it at all. With the freedomsmith and springco on the steel it’s like 2 lb 10oz the polymers are about 3lb. 
 

I shot a match Thursday night and it didn’t go well but that was mostly my fault. We’ll see what happens tomorrow. I just mounted the dot and didn’t zero it. Hopefully it’s close since I took it off one of the polymer rivals. The recoil impulse is definitely less but I agree with you I like how easy it is to manipulate the plastic gun. 


For me I am having a different experience with the triggers on the polymer. I have 2 that feel identical at about 2.25 lbs. The steel is just a little under 3lbs with the same internals and polishing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ngodwetrust21 said:


For me I am having a different experience with the triggers on the polymer. I have 2 that feel identical at about 2.25 lbs. The steel is just a little under 3lbs with the same internals and polishing.

That’s so strange we’re seeing almost the opposite. I only polished internals on one of the plastic guns and didn’t notice a difference so I didn’t bother with any of the other ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, TheChef1 said:

He made changed for the better though. Why would he put it back to stock?

Simple.  If making changes, do ONE at a time to evaluate.

For example, when my gun arrives this week, I'll clean/lube it first then take it outside to my range and fire the first 100 rounds with hot 115/124 ammo.  Then I'll get out the ammo I like to run and see if the gun chokes on it.  I'll assess one thing at a time from there as the gun parts break in.  I like the process.  What works for the poly may not obtain the same result for the metal gun.  This is a great forum isn't it?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...