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<2lb Trigger Pull Witha Stock Striker Spring!


cautery

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OK... I am an incurable tinkerer. I can't leave anything alone.

I have/had a modified RS trigger kit in my G35... and it's a great product by the way! I started with all of his parts... (2lb-8oz) then I put my 3.5 connector back in because I had done a lot more than polishing on it... specifically, it was completely stoned to make sure it was flat before polishing. (2lb-4oz)

Then, I put my trigger bar back in after modifying it with a higher trigger spring hole, again, because I had stoned critical portions of it flat before polishing.... Note here: Before I put it back in, I reground the face where it engages the striker to give it a nice crisp edge... Then stoned it smooth (3 grades), then polished it mirror bright (cut and color). (2lb even).

I've put some 2000 rounds (mostly reloads) through it without a single failure to fire... not a single light strike. Now, I was still using the reduced power striker spring and replacement trigger spring from the RS trigger kit.

Then, I added a pre-travel set screw, and radically reduced my pre-travel. The drop safety still works fine; after shortening it further, the trigger safety works fine; and since it has been set, I haven't had a single failure to reset.

Then, I got to thinking that at some point, that (Wolf?) reduced power striker spring MIGHT weaken and cause problems... It probably wouldn't, but having that thought in the back of my mind isn't good for competition mindset... So I set about to figure a way to use the stock spring... Not only will it yield more margin on primer ignition, stock springs are always available and cheaper...

I tried a couple of hand made springs from stock I had left over from years ago, but it's too danged hard to make the end loops...

So, I made the decision to get a spring machine and got a ton of different stocks to play with... After a lot of trial and error and note taking, I am proud to say that I managed to find the exact right combination of wire diameter, overall spring diameter, and length such that I can use the stock Glock striker spring and get a sweet trigger pull weight...

Smooth and light at 1lb 14.25oz!!

And I still have a reliable reset! :D

Still haven't figured out any way to improve on the Sotelo drop safety plunger... Still using it and the spring.

Now the trigger is just about complete... As soon as I figure out how to make a good overtravel solution... I've already tried two, but neither of them address the spongy feel in the overtravel due to trigger bar flex... and seem to have an issue with the drop safety plunger depressor on the trigger bar catching/rubbing too much on the slide.

Oh... and I have one more cool trigger mod coming to tell y'all about soon.. probably about mid-November... if my machinist will quit worrying about making those F-18 parts and get my order done. ;)

Edited by cautery
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Now the trigger is just about complete... As soon as I figure out how to make a good overtravel solution... I've already tried two, but neither of them address the spongy feel in the overtravel due to trigger bar flex...

clay,

try the jentra overtravel stop, it is available at topglock, i've tried the jentra and the lone wolff stop, the jentra is by far superior, it offers a nice solid stop, no trigger bar flex, just be careful when you tighten it....i already broke one by overtightening it :D

andrew

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I might give it a try... I guess I'm gonna have to buy a THE magwell anyway to try anyway, since I can't find anyone with a spare/one they aren;t using (I have a filled/milled back channel that will require either modding a THE et al (brazing/redrilling the mounting holes, and putting threaded inserts in the solid back channel), or going with a moulded polymer well from Caylor...

Might as well try the stop too...

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I believe the jentra locates their stop at the back-right portion of the mag well (when looking down on the gun from a top view)...at the 90 degree bend?

If so, that is where JP Enterprises addresses the over-travel as well. They drill thru the frame at that point and install a set screw as an adjustable over-travel.

Also, on the flexing...

The G20 that we have has a "nub" stamped in it on the distal (outside) surface of the trigger bar ramp that pushes up on the plunger safety. This nub, which would contact the side of the slide, acts to prevent the ramp from deflecting as it contacts (and tries to push up) the safety plunger. Drag is minimal (it would be tough to measure a difference). So, the reduced deflection should help with feel.

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Flex... you are exactly correct on the Jentra... It might work, but it sure is ugly. ;)

JP puts the screw in the frame huh... You'd have to fully pull the trigger bar to adjust huh?

I was thinking about using that location, but using the typical "cautery over-engineered approach". :)

I think I'd put a metal insert in the frame for a set screw to use as a stop so it doesn't eat up the frame/wear.

Then I'd drill/tap the trigger bar for a set screw. It would be adjustable with the trigger bar in.

I know folks worry about them coming loose... Just set it and then use Green LocTite. Green is for penetrating assembled fasteners... wrks great. I' ve used it a lot. using it on my pre-travel screw as a matter of fact. :)

Flex.... I missed the part on the G20 triger bar...

What a cool solution to that problem... I have stared at that deflection for long periods of time through the mag well... running that trigger back and forth... It never occured to me to add a spacer to keep the trigger bar out of that pinch between the plunger and frame and from deflecting...

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JP goes thru the back of the gun...set screw is adjustable with gun together. I don't know if I still have a gun around here with that setup or not (I like a little over-travel and don't utilize the feature). If I can dig one up and a camera...

I have no clue why Glock doesn't do the G20 trick on all their trigger bars.

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So the JP requires sending them the pistol frame for them to drill and tap for the set screw? Not for me. I prefer to do my own work when I can. I'd definitely like to see some pics of it though.

I'd also like to see some pics of the G20 trigger bar. :) Glock really should standardize on that TB design if it works like you say it does.... Sounds like a sweet deal.

Regarding ALL over travel approaches... In MY pistol, it seems like the plunger depressor on the trigger bar hangs up on the slide somehow whenever a set screw is applied... You can feel (and hear) it when you pull the slide back... Sounds like the trigger bar is in a bind and then you can hear/feel it when it slips loose...

I like some overtravel too, but it's just too much... And I'm trying to figure a way to get a rock solid bottom to the trigger... Get rid of the mushy stop... I'd settle for more overtravel if the trigger were more solid at the rear...

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jentra overtravel from topglock.com

42984.JPG

The Jentra overtravel stop fastens to the trigger bar,once adjusted it will limit the overtravel of the trigger pull which results in a shorter pull and equally important a shorter reset.The JOS has no adjustment screw that can loosen and as a result lose proper adjustment.The JOS is made of a high quality aircraft grade aluminum,which is both light and strong.The JOS location in the glock pistol makes for a solid and secure stop.

Edited by vluc
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http://www.vanekcustom.com/other.htm

Also, since you've already modded the grip and it wouldn't be legal in Production anyway, you might consider installing a screw in the trigger.

Didn't know Charlie was back to work... Good for him! :)

I also hadn't seen the "other" additions before. I'd like to try his trigger housing... My pre-travel works great, but I don't seem to have figured out the over travel secret yet. :)

Thanks,

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So, I made the decision to get a spring machine and got a ton of different stocks to play with... After a lot of trial and error and note taking, I am proud to say that I managed to find the exact right combination of wire diameter, overall spring diameter, and length such that I can use the stock Glock striker spring and get a sweet trigger pull weight...

Smooth and light at 1lb 14.25oz!!

And I still have a reliable reset! :D

SO--are you going to sell/trade/give away any of these trigger springs? I would like to have a few to play with!

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, y'all... I'll make 'em. But I have some more work to do before I make them public... not the least of which is figuring out how to make them faster and with absolute consistency. Right now, I'm rejecting about 3 out of 4 for not meeting my exact specs...

I suspect there'd have to be AT LEAST two different models... one for those with stock trigger bars, and one for those that have drilled the spring hole higher...

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jentra overtravel from topglock.com

42984.JPG

The Jentra overtravel stop fastens to the trigger bar,once adjusted it will limit the overtravel of the trigger pull which results in a shorter pull and equally important a shorter reset.The JOS has no adjustment screw that can loosen and as a result lose proper adjustment.The JOS is made of a high quality aircraft grade aluminum,which is both light and strong.The JOS location in the glock pistol makes for a solid and secure stop.

It looks to me like it's already dinging your frame. Metal to plastic is going to change at some point in time. Wear will take care of that.

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"JP's approach is too radical, imagine drilling the frame...."

Have two lg. frame guns done by JP five yr's. ago, the oblong hole on the outside is so small no one ever notices it, not to mention neither one has ever come out of adjustment. Also it adjusts from the outside of the gun when it's fully assembled.

Edited by Bugs Bunny
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OK, y'all... I'll make 'em. But I have some more work to do before I make them public... not the least of which is figuring out how to make them faster and with absolute consistency. Right now, I'm rejecting about 3 out of 4 for not meeting my exact specs...

I suspect there'd have to be AT LEAST two different models... one for those with stock trigger bars, and one for those that have drilled the spring hole higher...

Clay if you send wolf a spring they will make you a proprietary spring you can put your name on

probabley need to buy several hundred at a time.

there is also a spring made by alchamey. the last triger job i did ended up at 1.75 pounds with this spring. I dont notice any problems with increased power springs in a modified bar.

Johnnie

Edited by Mad Scientist
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