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RL1100 .223 Setup


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Hello,

 

My RL1100 is due to arrive soon and I'm looking forward to getting it running. There are a few questions I have that I couldn't find answers to in previous 1050 threads, apologies if this is a dupe.

 

For .223 I'm still trying to finalize my process. Points of concern are in red:

 

.223 Prep Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. 80% size and Deprime
  3. Swage/Expand: The case neck is going to be resized again in the trimmer, should I skip this and swage/expand on the loading toolhead to work the brass less?
  4. empty
  5. RT1500 trim/100% size
  6. empty
  7. Lyman M Die: Does the M die essentially do the same thing as the Swage Backup/Expander?
  8. empty/eject

 

Then dry tumble to remove lube

 

.223 Load Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. Universal Decapper
  3. Swage/Expand: If the case has already been swaged, should I disconnect the swager for this step? Or just double swage/expand?
  4. Prime
  5. Powder
  6. empty
  7. Seat
  8. Crimp/eject

 

Appreciate any guidance that you can give me. Thank you!

 

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OK 

Prep head

#3   you need a hold down  die to support the case to swage it does not need to expand

 

     a case hold down die from Mighty Armory for example will work or  have the rod turned down to not expand.

#7 the m die or equivalent will knock off the flashing left on the inside of the neck left from trimming

 

Load Head

#3 yes this is wear you will use the Dillon hold down swage a second time two reasons first brass spring back.

      or the crimp will just not remove .second this time set for each individual Head stamp.

     Many times you can come up with a happy med setting but after you bend /brake a few swage rods you

    will learn how to set it and one adjustment does not work 100% of the time.

     

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Here is how I process mine. 

 

.223 Prep Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. Deprime - Lee Universal with F&FB Pin Holster (takes RCBS pins)
  3. SWAGE ONLY - I use F&FB Swage Rod Backer Only (no neck expanding)
  4. empty
  5. empty
  6. RT1500 - trim/100% size
  7. empty
  8. Lyman M Die - setup to flare the neck ever so slightly for Mr.Bulletfeeder 

 

Then dry tumble to remove lube

 

.223 Load Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. Universal Decapper - to clear possible corn cobb from flash hole.
  3. Empty - remove Swage rod from the press
  4. Prime
  5. Powder
  6. Mr.Bullet Feeder
  7. Seat
  8. Crimp/eject
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7 hours ago, SeattleDude said:

Here is how I process mine. 

 

.223 Prep Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. Deprime - Lee Universal with F&FB Pin Holster (takes RCBS pins)
  3. SWAGE ONLY - I use F&FB Swage Rod Backer Only (no neck expanding)
  4. empty
  5. empty
  6. RT1500 - trim/100% size
  7. empty
  8. Lyman M Die - setup to flare the neck ever so slightly for Mr.Bulletfeeder 

 

Then dry tumble to remove lube

 

.223 Load Toolhead

  1. Casefeed
  2. Universal Decapper - to clear possible corn cobb from flash hole.
  3. Empty - remove Swage rod from the press
  4. Prime
  5. Powder
  6. Mr.Bullet Feeder
  7. Seat
  8. Crimp/eject

 

This is great, thank you. In your mind, is the M die better than the Dillon hold-down to expand the neck/flare the case slightly?

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This is great, thank you. In your mind, is the M die better than the Dillon hold-down to expand the neck/flare the case slightly?

I use a 650, but I do use an M die in station 1 to expand neck slightly for all .223/5.56 and 300 BO rounds I load. Works brilliantly.
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Marking this thread so I can learn and understand the best set up for 223 on the RL1100....Guess I will need to plan on getting an additional toolhead for this application....OUCH...There goes another $230 (toolhead and shipping).....

Edited by Sigarmsp226
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On 4/10/2020 at 5:38 PM, AHI said:

OK 

Prep head

#3   you need a hold down  die to support the case to swage it does not need to expand

 

     a case hold down die from Mighty Armory for example will work or  have the rod turned down to not expand.

#7 the m die or equivalent will knock off the flashing left on the inside of the neck left from trimming

 

Load Head

#3 yes this is wear you will use the Dillon hold down swage a second time two reasons first brass spring back.

      or the crimp will just not remove .second this time set for each individual Head stamp.

     Many times you can come up with a happy med setting but after you bend /brake a few swage rods you

    will learn how to set it and one adjustment does not work 100% of the time.

     

So I grabbed a mighty armory swage hold-down die so as not to expand on the processing toolhead. Trying to understand here, you mention I should still be using the Dillon swage hold-down on the second pass, but doesn't it do the same thing as the M die with the expansion?

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when I prep I run mixed brass and set the swage to do a light swage.

when I load I set the swage to the particular brass . Now after doing this 

for a few years i have found a re adjustment is not necessary. once the primer pocket

is clean the swage will complete on the second pass.the Dillon HOLD DOWN is just that

holding the case down to swage the primer pocket a second time.

Now another reason for the way I swage if you set for a perfect swage on LC brass and a

couple CBC come through you will bend the swage rod. or you trim length will very greatly.

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AHI - So what you are saying is that you use the Dillon Hold Down on both cycles?

 

Second Question - Because I am purchasing the RL1100 complete 223 conversion set up and extra tool heads to change over my RL1100 from 9mm to 223 - do you know if the Dillon HOLD DOWN comes with the RL1100 caliber conversion kit for 223?   I hate to call into Dillon and have to wait on hold for 60-90 minutes just to get the answer to this question.  

 

Thanks Mark

Edited by Sigarmsp226
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  • 2 months later...

I've been trying to process .223 for a bit now, and I'm about at my wit's end. I'm running mixed brass, so I understand there will be variance, but I was not expecting .012in of variance. 

 

I made sure the toolhead and shellplate were tight, backed the swage die down to contact the shellplate on the downstroke to prevent flex, and I was finally trimming cases to 1.750in pretty accurately. However,  the next day, I fire up the press to prep more brass and suddenly I'm getting cases 1.760in and 1.758 long. I have absolutely no idea why this is happening, nothing changed on the press so I'm not sure why the trim length changed overnight. 

 

I have an email in to Dillon, but does anyone have ideas in the meantime?

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When the motor is first turned on it will "torque turn".

So do you have a die lock nut on the die body and one on the trimmer motor?

On my set up the die lock nut had to go under the tool head. The one for the trimmer

is at the top of the die locked  to the trimmer motor.

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Just thought of something that maybe you issue.This is common to all progressive presses.

The larger the diameter the shell plate the more this is magnified.The plate flexes.You must 

have a case in every station.Through the first 10 cases back in your case feeder.Measure The next

few cases.The last few cases will also very some and tend to be long.

 

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