A_Cardboard_Box

Ha, I was told mine would be shipping out last week. Still nothing....

He is really a nice guy, I got to chat with him at a level 2 for a bit. Not hating on the man at all, just would like my holster

25 weeks now. I texted him on Oct 3 with no response.

Waiting 23 weeks here.

Sorry for the double post, but that same thread on accurateshooter also points to too deep primer seating.... My head hurts.

Picked up a Forster collet puller so I'll pull em down. So even dry soap residue can contaminate the powder? I would have thought dry tumbling it would have helped that... Well dang. Maybe I need to give up wet tumbling...

There might be a very small possibility but I don't think it's likely. The cases are dry, as they get dry tumbled after processing and sit for a while before I load them. This could have happened. Sometimes primers fly out of the machine if they don't quite get picked up fully by the primer slide, I wonder if I had the same thing happen to me. To everyone saying corn cob blocked the flash hole - it's possible that there were some pieces that were lurking in the bottom of the cases, didn't get pushed out by the decapping die, and then blocked the flash hole or contaminated the powder I guess. I guess I need to shoot the rest of this ammo and see if any more squibs happen.

So does this happen? My understanding was that primers either go off or they don't. These are #450s bought in the last year, have there been issues with newer primers?

Hello, A few weeks ago I was at the range for rifle practice and unfortunately found myself dealing with a squib. I heard a click, tap/racked and inspected the chamber and it was full of powder, with some of the kernels being weird and yellow. Looking into the case, I saw that there were clumps of yellow powder holding together as well. I have had 2 squibs in the past several months, but had chalked those up to bad reloading practices and forgetting to charge a primed case that I had set aside, as I didn't see any powder when I was trying to clear these malfunctions. The rifles have been a 16" AR and a 12.5" suppressed AR both in 5.56 NATO. I am totally lost as to the cause of this squib. I've been suggested that it could be powder contamination - However, only 1 out of 90 rounds squibbed that day. If it were contamination, wouldn't that number be much higher? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/FIXPtck The load recipe is: Midway Factory Second 55gr .224 FMJBT 24.5gr H335 CCI #450 2.23 OAL Mixed brass Light crimp My process is: Wet tumble in a FART with no pins, squirt of dawn and 2x 9mm cases of citric acid Dry in dehydrator Spray with Dillon Case lube on cookie sheet, wait 15 mins for lube to dry Process on Dillon RL1100 Universal decap Swage empty empty RT1500 with Carbide Dillon Size/trim die empty Lyman M die Dry tumble for 15mins to get lube off Gauge cases and primer pockets (No-go Ballistic tools primer pocket gauge) Load on Dillon RL1100 Universal decap Swage Prime Powder empty Seat Crimp Shoot PS I can't seem to figure out how to embed photos into this post, so any help on that would be appreciated too

Yes, I have the larger motor lock ring turned tight, and the die lock ring under the toolhead. My witness marks hadn't moved from their positions.

I've been trying to process .223 for a bit now, and I'm about at my wit's end. I'm running mixed brass, so I understand there will be variance, but I was not expecting .012in of variance. I made sure the toolhead and shellplate were tight, backed the swage die down to contact the shellplate on the downstroke to prevent flex, and I was finally trimming cases to 1.750in pretty accurately. However, the next day, I fire up the press to prep more brass and suddenly I'm getting cases 1.760in and 1.758 long. I have absolutely no idea why this is happening, nothing changed on the press so I'm not sure why the trim length changed overnight. I have an email in to Dillon, but does anyone have ideas in the meantime?

Interesting, I wonder if the crimp they use is harder to swage out for some reason. I ended up adjusting the swage up so hopefully that will improve things.

Hello, I've been working on dialing my RL1100 in for .223 ammo, and I've been running into a problem. I'm smearing about 8-10% of primers (Winchester Small Rifle). This is confusing to me, because I am swaging them twice: once on the prep toolhead, and once on the loading toolhead. The prep toolhead has a Mighty Armory swage backer, and the load toolhead has the Dillon swage backup/expander. Both the rounds that I pulled and removed the smeared primers from passed my Ballistic Tools primer pocket gauge. I am running mixed brass. I know the Dillon recommendation is to sort brass by headstamp, but I've also seen a few guys on here say they run mixed brass through their 1050s without issue. The cases I inspected were both Wolf .223, which was odd because there were several other Wolf .223 cases that primed just fine. Any ideas? Attached is a pic of how far the swage rod is getting in the pocket, as well as the backup/expander position. Thank you!

I've been seeing a lot of mention of the .356 over the .355. Why do you like the .356s? I didn't even know it was an option.

135 grain Truncated Cone Winchester SPP 3.2gr Titegroup 1.1 OAL Mixed Brass Haven't put these on paper, but they seem to be plenty accurate even out to 100 yards. Definitely no accuracy issues at standard USPSA ranges. Nets me about 130 PF out of my Shadow 2, 131 PF out of my Glock 17 with a factory threaded barrel.

chgo - Did you manage to get the bolt out? I found some heat from a heat gun and some vicegrips on the bolt nub got it out very easily. But then again, I had quite a bit to grab onto, not sure what yours looks like.

Hello, In my adventures with setting up the RT1500 for processing .223 on my RL1100, I've noticed the exhaust manifold does not fit with the new, raised washer between the toolhead and the toolhead bolt. The manifold sits cockeyed and the area where the cutter blade trims the cases is left open, letting chips fly everywhere. Has anyone dealt with this problem yet? Dillon has a modified manifold for the 550 short trim toolhead, I wonder if that would work. I'm thinking of modding it myself, cutting out an area so the manifold can rest around the washer. Would love to hear anyone's thoughts. Thanks!

I forgot I had a heat gun lying around. Few minutes warming it up, and I was able to unscrew it with some channel lock pliers. Thanks everyone!

Hello, I was converting my RL1100 yesterday, and while removing the ratchet my cam guide bolt was incredibly tight... so tight that it completely shattered as I was trying to unscrew it. Needless to say all my toolheads are getting their ratchets removed. I've been trying clamps, vise grips, pliers, etc to grab it and unscrew it, but nothing seems to be grabbing. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove it? Pic related.

So I grabbed a mighty armory swage hold-down die so as not to expand on the processing toolhead. Trying to understand here, you mention I should still be using the Dillon swage hold-down on the second pass, but doesn't it do the same thing as the M die with the expansion?

So do you just take the ratchet off the toolhead?

This is great, thank you. In your mind, is the M die better than the Dillon hold-down to expand the neck/flare the case slightly?

Thanks for this info. How did you polish the primer slide channel?

Why did you take off the ratchet? I've seen a few people do it so I'm wondering if it's an "in the know" mod.

Hello, My RL1100 is due to arrive soon and I'm looking forward to getting it running. There are a few questions I have that I couldn't find answers to in previous 1050 threads, apologies if this is a dupe. For .223 I'm still trying to finalize my process. Points of concern are in red: .223 Prep Toolhead Casefeed 80% size and Deprime Swage/Expand: The case neck is going to be resized again in the trimmer, should I skip this and swage/expand on the loading toolhead to work the brass less? empty RT1500 trim/100% size empty Lyman M Die: Does the M die essentially do the same thing as the Swage Backup/Expander? empty/eject Then dry tumble to remove lube .223 Load Toolhead Casefeed Universal Decapper Swage/Expand: If the case has already been swaged, should I disconnect the swager for this step? Or just double swage/expand? Prime Powder empty Seat Crimp/eject Appreciate any guidance that you can give me. Thank you!