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Scale - Powder Measure Calibrating


benos

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I added this to my website's Which Dillon? the other day, and thought it might be useful here.

In a nutshell - throw four individual charges in the scale's pan before adjusting the Powder Measure. Especially as you're coming close to your target charge weight.

Here's a technique that works well if the cartridge case will hold two charges of your target powder charge. Clear all the empty cases out of the Shellplate, and remove the Locator Buttons from the powder dropping station and the bullet seating stations. Put an empty, primed case in the powder dropping station. Cycle the handle so it drops one charge in the case. Remove the case, place it back in the powder dropping station and cycle the handle again. Remove the case and dump the (two charges of) powder in the scale's pan. Repeat that procedure. Now you have four charges in the pan. Say your target powder charge is 4.0 grains; your scale should read 16.0 grains. You might make a sticky for your reloading bench that has 4x totals for your favorite charge weights. Example:

4.6 = 18.4

5.2 = 20.8

Calibrating the Powder Measure using this technique is not only considerably more accurate than the "drop-one-charge-then-adjust-the-Powder-Measure" method, it will save you quite a bit of time, in the long run, as well.

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I also do at least four charge measurements in a row before I assume the measure is reset.

Another good thing is to discard the 1st charge thrown after any adjustment as it was already in the charge cavity when you cranked the adjuster bolt.

The only thing I do different is weigh each and every charge singly. I do it this way so I can also see any variances from throw to throw. It's usually slight (+ or - .1 grain is pretty normal), but I wanna know anyway and mass weighing will mask this.

--

Regards,

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Thanks Brian, this has been working great for me too. When I make a change to the charge bar I throw 4 charges and put them back in the measure to get it "settled". Then I throw 5 charges and measure the total weight and take the average. I also want to be able to see a single charge come up to the desired weight that I'm shooting for so that at any point during reloading, I can check one charge to guard against any drift.

One additional note: I take the primer cam off of the press so that I'm not dumping primers down the chute the entire time. (I can't take credit for this. It's one of the many great tips that I got from the forums)

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What I do is a bit more involved, but has worked for nearly two decades. First, I marked my charge bar adjustment nut with an arrow. The arrow points to one of the flats. When I have found a setting for a particular load, not only do I note the weight of powder, but the position of the flat. (I only make 1/6th adjustments, so the top flat is always level to the bench top.)

Each ammo bin has the hexagon of the adjustment nut drawn on it, wiht the arrow indication noted by an extra line. (Chemists, think of any ring.)

When I go to determine what weight I'm throwing, I dump ten charges in the scale. Math? What math? I simply move the decimal place over.

When I want to re-set to a particular powder charge, I crank the nut over to the correct orientation (For instance; "4.2 of Bullsye is X turns out, flat at 2 o'clock") and then throw ten charges. If the setting is wrong, I'll be off by a full turn, and the amount of powder thrown will be noticeably off the mark.

I can re-set to a new powder charge in a minute or less, less time than it takes to change toolhead and shellplate.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are we talking about a manual or electronic scale here? Are we averaging 4 charges just in case (on an electronic scale) the charge weight is teetering on going up or down a tick?

I turn a flat (or half) at a time when I get close... I pull the button and throw 4 charges minimum into the same case, dumping each charge back in the top as I go...

I CALIBRATE the scale each time I make a powder weight change... temp/humidity, etc may have changed. Then I tare the scale WITH the exact cartridge I'm using (tapping it out to make sure there isn't a grain stuck up by the primer).

Then I throw and weigh five charges... Unless 4 of 5 hit my target, if any of the five is off by .2, or if the spread is .2gr or larger, I re-adjust or TS the reason.

Once I get 4 of 5 charges or better on target, I continue...

BTW, I have found that you NEED to have all stations populated to get the most consistent throws... You ALSO need to try and use your "production stroke" to get a true reading.... Meaning... same speed et al. as when you are cranking them out...

Now I use VV N340 mostly, and it meters really well... so YMMV...

I WILL however try the 4 charge averaging to see how much over or under the target weight the average is... Interesting.

Thanks Brian!

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Lately, my PACT BBK has been a little questionably inconsistent. Now when I turn it on, I remove the pan, let it settle, and zero it. I put the pan back on and if it doesn't weigh 121.5 grains, I calibrate the scale (with the check weights and all). Once it weights 121.5 I zero it and I'm good to go.

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You ALSO need to try and use your "production stroke" to get a true reading.... Meaning... same speed et al. as when you are cranking them out...

That I always did.

BTW, I have found that you NEED to have all stations populated to get the most consistent throws... 

After testing that one forever I decided it didn't matter. If you only ever calibrate and check charges by the "weigh-4" method, and you only ever do that with the machine empty, even if the amount actually thrown in each charge is not your target weight (e.g.: the weigh-4 method indicates you're throwing 5.0 grains/charge but the measure is actually throwing and average of 4.92 grains/charge) - that doesn't matter. Because at that point, the actual weight of the powder charge isn't the bottom line - your chronograph readings are. So as long as you do everything the same way every time, you'll have the same results.

But even after all that, on my 1050 - I'd dial in the charge using the weigh-4 method, load a 100 rounds, then weigh four charges individually (while the shellplate was full), and they would average spot on.

be

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[
BTW, I have found that you NEED to have all stations populated to get the most consistent throws... 

After testing that one forever I decided it didn't matter. If you only ever calibrate and check charges by the "weigh-4" method, and you only ever do that with the machine empty, even if the amount actually thrown in each charge is not your target weight (e.g.: the weigh-4 method indicates you're throwing 5.0 grains/charge but the measure is actually throwing and average of 4.92 grains/charge) - that doesn't matter. Because at that point, the actual weight of the powder charge isn't the bottom line - your chronograph readings are. So as long as you do everything the same way every time, you'll have the same results.

But even after all that, on my 1050 - I'd dial in the charge using the weigh-4 method, load a 100 rounds, then weigh four charges individually (while the shellplate was full), and they would average spot on.

be

Hopefully, I'll get to play with a 1050 some before long... :) For now, I'll have to stick with the 550B.

KEY POINT: Doing things the same way all the time. You couldn't be more right.

I tried the weigh-4 deal today while loading up about 800 rounds. It's a great addition to the "tool box". I like it. It gives a way to find out where you are on the second decimal place. I've got my powder systems worked out to where they throw pretty consistent from charge to charge (inside the resolution of the scale). So, the weigh-4 technique allows me to see where between the two .1 gr increments I am...

And of course the chrono does tell the story in the end... assuming all the other stuff is consistent...

Thanks Brian,

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  • 5 months later...
Do you guys think that a Dillon low powder sensor helps throw a more consistent charge? I was thinking that perhaps the extra weight on the powder keeps the throws more consistent.

Will

I don't think so at all. After filling the measure, giving it a couple taps to settle the powder, and cycling/pulling approx. 10 charges to settle everything in - I found the dispensed charges weighed consistently from then on - from "measure full" to "powder below the baffle."

be

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