My first sp01 trigger job, have some questions

[balmo]

I just finished a trigger job on my sp01 I'm planning to play in CO. I pretty much "Cajunized" mine minus the combat trigger.

 

-Sometimes my hammer will not fall whem I pull the trigger in DA, especially when I pull slowly and deliberatly. Why is that? 

 

-When I cock the hammer for SA, pull the trigger and rack the slide, it has a loud and very tacticle reset. And this reset distance is what I would expect from a fpb cz. But waaay before that, there is a very faint reset that I could pull the trigger with. This very short reset is what I see in Shadow CZ's which are very short. And there is no take up on this faint reset, I'm at the wall aready and then it drops the hammer. I'm dumbfounded and thinking about safety too.

 

-Lastly, more on learning, why did I have fit the sear to the safety when I used the original sear that came with the gun? I was lazy to take out the sear from its cage so I just worked on the safety and it worked. I did have take a good chunk from the safety to engage the sear.

 

Here' the vid on the DA pull

 

And here's for the reset

 

Thank you. Aside from these, the trigger is amaizing; about 7lb on DA and 2lbs on SA. If that uber short reset is okay and safe, I'll take it!

 

[SoCalShooter69]

Go back and polish it. When you think you've done enough... polish it again. Esp where the disco wing sits on the trigger bar. Also, the under side of the sear cage (along with everything else).

 

Now, there will be a few people that will tell you to knock the angle off the wing of the disco to get the bar to travel under the wing - it's bad advice. Assuming you're running a t3 or similar. 

 

There's a lot of stack in your DA pull. You really need to polish EVERYTHING. Hammer strut, trigger bar, sear, etc., etc. 

 

Good luck, and keep up the good work!

Edited September 5, 2017 by SoCalShooter69

[himurax13]

1. What CGW parts did you get exactly? Did you get the adjustable sear, type 2 disco, firing pin lifter, extended firing pin, reduced power springs, firing pin retain pin? I see that you have a race hammer but it looks like you are still running the stock trigger. I also believe they recommend situating the firing pin retaining pin so that the space is at the 12 o'clock position.

 

2. Are you using the OEM firing pin block lifter? the Cajun one looks like tool steel. 

 

3. Are you certain that the screw in the frame that is holding down the trigger bar spring is secured and that the spring is sitting squarely in the frame and is riding beneath both sides of the trigger bar?

 

The entire point of fitting the the sear/safety is to ensure proper operation of the sear. The OEM sear is fairly cheap in comparison to a replacement safety, so that is why I recommend fitting the sear instead of the safety (plus if you didn't fit the safety you can swap it to another gun). Cutting the appropriate angle can take several tries and you will have to reinstall to check proper operation. If you purchased the CGW sear it allows you to bypass the fitting process by using the setscrew to ensure proper safety operation.

Edited September 5, 2017 by himurax13

[balmo]

8 hours ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

Go back and polish it. When you think you've done enough... polish it again. Esp where the disco wing sits on the trigger bar. Also, the under side of the sear cage (along with everything else).

 

Now, there will be a few people that will tell you to knock the angle off the wing of the disco to get the bar to travel under the wing - it's bad advice. Assuming you're running a t3 or similar. 

 

There's a lot of stack in your DA pull. You really need to polish EVERYTHING. Hammer strut, trigger bar, sear, etc., etc. 

 

Good luck, and keep up the good work!

Thank you. I didn't polish the disco cause I thought that Cajun's was shiny already and left it as is. I'll open it up and polish again

[balmo]

1 hour ago, himurax13 said:

1. What CGW parts did you get exactly? Did you get the adjustable sear, type 2 disco, firing pin lifter, extended firing pin, reduced power springs, firing pin retain pin? I see that you have a race hammer but it looks like you are still running the stock trigger. I also believe they recommend situating the firing pin retaining pin so that the space is at the 12 o'clock position.

 

2. Are you using the OEM firing pin block lifter? the Cajun one looks like tool steel. 

 

3. Are you certain that the screw in the frame that is holding down the trigger bar spring is secured and that the spring is sitting squarely in the frame and is riding beneath both sides of the trigger bar?

 

The entire point of fitting the the sear/safety is to ensure proper operation of the sear. The OEM sear is fairly cheap in comparison to a replacement safety, so that is why I recommend fitting the sear instead of the safety (plus if you didn't fit the safety you can swap it to another gun). Cutting the appropriate angle can take several tries and you will have to reinstall to check proper operation. If you purchased the CGW sear it allows you to bypass the fitting process by using the setscrew to ensure proper safety operation.

 

 

 

1. I have everything except the adjustable sear. I've fitted a sear/safety off a Tactical Sport so I did away with the adjustable sear. Yes, it is still stock trigger. It's not obvious, but the firing retaining pin is indeed 12'o clock, gap is facing topside.

 

2. I'm using Cajun's lifter

 

3. I'm sure the screw holding the trigger bar/mag release is pretty secure. I am not sure if the trigger bar spring is squarely riding the trigger bar, how can you check/feel if its square?

 

I fitted the safety to the sear instead of the other way around because I don't want to disassemble the cage and reinstall the lifter and its tiny l-spring. I know its opposite of what's recommended but the safety still works as advertised.

[balmo]

I got a chance to observe the gun.

 

I have an ever so lighlty play on the sear cage towards the back (closest to the hammer). If I put a constant downward pressure on the back of the cage, DA drops the hammer all the time.

 

On the rouge uber short reset, I observed that the sear will drop but the fpb will not lift. If the push forward to the loud and tactile reset, both sear and fpb will move. Why is there a rouge reset though were it will drop the sear but wouldnt lift the fpb lifter?

 

The trigger bar lifter spring seems to be in the groove.

Edited September 6, 2017 by balmo

[mikeinctown]

FWIW I put all CGW parts in my SP-01 and had EXACTLY the same problems as you do. No DA fire on a slow pull and the double click on the SA reset. I took everything apart and polished it all back up again and that seemed to help a little but I think I need to polish even more. I used the CGW sear and all other parts sold in their pro kit. I know the tolerances are extremely tight as I added a bunch of lube to all surfaces in there and now it fires all the time, but the DA trigger literally has to almost touch the frame before the hammer falls. It is my dry fire/backup gun so I am not terribly worried at this point but will just take it to a gunsmith in a few months or send it to CGW as it has all their parts and just let them tune it. (would rather not pay the darn shipping fees if possible though)

 

Another thing, make triple sure you polished the heck out of that plunger hole in the slide where the firing pin block is. Also make triple sure you polished the heck out of the underside of the trigger bar as the machines surface is not smooth at all and almost has ripples in the machining marks, at least on mine.

[M1A4ME]

I bought a brand new CZ 75 Compact (the so called SP01 Compact) a few months back.  When I decided to make it SAO I found two issues mentioned above

1.  The screw that holds the trigger bar spring and magazine release button spring was loose.  Not just loose, but I turned it down a couple turns to get it tight/snug.  Also means it wasn't staked in place.

2. The trigger bar lifting spring wasn't uniform in it's arm height.  One side was higher than the other and one spring arm kept coming off the bottom of the trigger bar and riding between it and the frame.

 

It may be new, but take a look at everything.

 

[mikeinctown]

3 hours ago, M1A4ME said:

I bought a brand new CZ 75 Compact (the so called SP01 Compact) a few months back.  When I decided to make it SAO I found two issues mentioned above

1.  The screw that holds the trigger bar spring and magazine release button spring was loose.  Not just loose, but I turned it down a couple turns to get it tight/snug.  Also means it wasn't staked in place.

2. The trigger bar lifting spring wasn't uniform in it's arm height.  One side was higher than the other and one spring arm kept coming off the bottom of the trigger bar and riding between it and the frame.

 

It may be new, but take a look at everything.

 

 

FYI they aren't supposed to be uniform in their height. One side lifts up on the bar slightly while the other should ride even when popped off the little grooves on the underside of the trigger bar. (this according to CGW)

[balmo]

I finally figured it out. Called Dave from CGW about my DA and more importanly, my double reset. I had to tune the trigger bar lifter spring: bare touching on the left side and 2-3mm on the right side when both out of its tracks. Now I only have the loud and tacticle reset at the fpb distance.

 

On DA I just lighty touched the disco wing with 1200grit plus polish. Now it drops the hammer in DA all the time. Now the trigger is nice and sweet! Just got to mill my DPP on the slide and try out CO.

[himurax13]

5 hours ago, balmo said:

I finally figured it out. Called Dave from CGW about my DA and more importanly, my double reset. I had to tune the trigger bar lifter spring: bare touching on the left side and 2-3mm on the right side when both out of its tracks. Now I only have the loud and tacticle reset at the fpb distance.

 

On DA I just lighty touched the disco wing with 1200grit plus polish. Now it drops the hammer in DA all the time. Now the trigger is nice and sweet! Just got to mill my DPP on the slide and try out CO.

1. I apologize. I should have been more specific about how to tune the trigger bar. 

 

2. Did you touch the face or did you break the edge?

[M1A4ME]

Well, that means if I ever have to use them, the two new trigger bar lifting springs I bought from CZ USA will have to be tweaked as both arms of the springs on them were level.  Something to remember, I guess.

[himurax13]

Well, that means if I ever have to use them, the two new trigger bar lifting springs I bought from CZ USA will have to be tweaked as both arms of the springs on them were level.  Something to remember, I guess.

It never hurts to have spare CZ parts. I can pretty much guarantee that most LGS do not have CZ parts in stock. Things like slidestops, recoil springs, trigger return springs, and firing pin springs are normal wear items.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[balmo]

4 hours ago, himurax13 said:

1. I apologize. I should have been more specific about how to tune the trigger bar. 

 

2. Did you touch the face or did you break the edge?

 

CGW disco is satin finish right? I just mirror finished the face of the wing and maybe 5 passes of 1200grit on the edge. 

[himurax13]

35 minutes ago, balmo said:

 

CGW disco is satin finish right? I just mirror finished the face of the wing and maybe 5 passes of 1200grit on the edge. 

More or less. Sometimes some material needs to be removed due to varying tolerances from one gun to the next.