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CZ Shadow 1 converted to Single Action - HELP!!!


Orbit

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Friends,

 

Finally I was able to convert my CZ Shadow 1 from double action to single action only. I changed the following to convert it to single action:

1. I bought a set of CZ Competition Hammer and CZ Strut

2. New CZ TRS and CZ Trigger pin

3. Dlask straight trigger aluminum

 

I keep the original hammer with strut and DISCONNECTOR, original trigger pin, original TRS, original trigger.

 

MY PROBLEMs:

1. very inconsistent, sometimes not resetting

2. when shooting, it goes to half cock and not hitting the firing pin

3. after firing a couple of rounds, the hammer will stop and will not fall to the firing pin, its just stop even though you are pressing the trigger (the trigger is moving and in my observation at the back side in the hammer area, the sear is not moving causing the hammer to stall and not firing)

 

Friends, I need your opinion, experience and guidance. I don't want to buy parts that are not needed or this should just some adjustments. PLEASE HELP ME.

 

See the pictures:

 

 

Coverted CZ Shadow 1 to SAO.jpg

Half cock when firing.jpg

Sear is not Moving.jpg

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Last night I completely disassebled the pistol, clean and check all the springs in the trigger group. I found that the trigger bar spring dont have much tension during the disassembly. The end of the trigger bar needs to engage the sear to move it, if no or less tension from the lifter spring, the trigger bar might miss the lever of the sear causing stalling of the hammer. I removed it and bend a bit upward on both sides. After cleaning and re-assembly, I tried to redo the problems by manually racking the slide:

 

RESULTS:

1. It is now resetting with a noticeable click

2. the hammer is now falling everytime, no half cock during the action of pressing the trigger

3. the trigger pull weight increased from 2.25 lbs to 2.75 lbs

 

I am not yet test it in the range but I will update this post. I believe this issue will help all newbies in CZ pistols.

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Rnlinebacker,

 

No, i changed the whole original hammer with disconnector and strut with a new set of cz competition hammer with a strut, no disconnector to make it single action only

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Is there a pre-travel screw on the trigger? I had one where if I set it to have zero pre-travel, the hammer would not reset at all. I had to back it out just enough for it to reset, but it left a lot of pre-travel.

Another thing to check is to make sure that your trigger bar springs are lined up in the trigger bar channel and is providing enough lift.

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Pre-travel for reset and over-travel for hammer release. If the hammer is not consistently resetting you need more pre-travel. You adjust the pre-travel by removing the slide and accessing an allen/hex screw at the top back of the trigger shoe. If you don't have any more adjustment check that the pistol is assembled correctly.

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Just put one of the straight SA triggers in a SP01 Compact (the steel framed Compact with a rail).  Had some issues with not enough forward travel of the trigger.  Backed the screw off till it no longer protruded from the front of the trigger and still had the problem.

 

I ended up sanding (have a small 1" wide hobby bench type belt sander) an angle of the lower front of the trigger to let it pivot farther forward.  That let the trigger bar move farther forward, too.  Tested it and it worked.  Put the screw back in it (removed it for the sanding) and went through the adjustment process and it's working great now.

 

Easier to remove metal from the front/lower corner of the trigger than to try to remove metal from the front of the trigger slot in the frame.

 

Hope it helps you with your trouble shooting.

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To Close this issue, I think I found the solution to my own problems after converting my CZ Shadow 1 to SAO with the replacement of Trigger, Hammer and strut:

 

Problems:

1. Inconsistent in resetting the trigger

2. The hammer was falling in half cock when pulling the trigger

3. The hammer was not falling at all and the sear wasn't moving at all

 

Solutions:

1. adjust the pre-travel and front of the straight aluminum trigger (new)

2. Make sure the the lift spring of trigger bar has enough tension to push it upward to touch the sear spring notch.

 

Thank you for all the prof comments that brought to the solution of the issues. I ran 300 rounds without a single failure.

 

Problems SOLVED.

Edited by Orbit
completion of report
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