hav3n Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 So I'm working up my Match into a limited gun but want to keep the same feel as my Lim Pro I've been shooting in Production. One of the things I'd like to do is use the DA/SA curved trigger in SAO. So I dropped in an extra EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Large Frame DA/SA Trigger (for reference http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-large-frame-da-sa-trigger-102014-1/) I had lying around and while it works the trigger doesn't stay back into 'SA' mode. This means that there is a lot of 'takeup' in the trigger as it's releasing all the way out to the max of that DA every time. Do I have to do the full conversion to DA/SA in order to get the same trigger feel? (Though I'd shoot it in Limited cocked and locked) Or what am I missing to get the trigger to stay back in SA? I'm also thinking about adding a Pre-Travel adjustment screw to the trigger I have and just try a 'bubba enhancement' similar to the pre-travel screw that comes with the factory trigger. Worse case scenario I ruin a trigger I'm not going to use anyways. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Drill and tap it for a pre travel screw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 23 hours ago, kneelingatlas said: Drill and tap it for a pre travel screw Wow. Ok. I tried this with my cheapo drill press. the metal is insanely hard trying to drill into the trigger. Plan B? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 I've done one before, I suppose I could do it again. The other option is to use a short reset disco like in your Limited Pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompsoncustom Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 On 4/28/2017 at 10:23 PM, kneelingatlas said: Drill and tap it for a pre travel screw That's what I do. (Have3n) if you are having trouble getting through the trigger sharpen the drill bit yourself on the grind I know when I was trying to dimple my barrel it didn't do anything but spin than I sharpened it and could have drilled right through the barrel if I wanted to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 8 hours ago, kneelingatlas said: I've done one before, I suppose I could do it again. The other option is to use a short reset disco like in your Limited Pro. Can i see a picture of where you drilled an tapped? I've got several ideas but none seem that great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 45 minutes ago, thompsoncustom said: That's what I do. (Have3n) if you are having trouble getting through the trigger sharpen the drill bit yourself on the grind I know when I was trying to dimple my barrel it didn't do anything but spin than I sharpened it and could have drilled right through the barrel if I wanted to. You're right, I'm just spinning right now. I'll trying sharpening it tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Bubba finds a way. It's not pretty but it's functional and feels WAY closer to my Lim Pro than before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Right on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 15 hours ago, hav3n said: Bubba finds a way. It's not pretty but it's functional and feels WAY closer to my Lim Pro than before. Was there any way to drill and tap the hole higher than what we see here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 6 hours ago, himurax13 said: Was there any way to drill and tap the hole higher than what we see here? You talking about the over-travel stop or the pre-travel? Honestly the answer for both, in my case, is that it was the flattest part of the trigger in both places. I was having trouble getting my drill bits to 'bite' into the metal and any angles just deflected the drill bit even more. So I went with the easiest places to drill that would still be functional. And this is what you get. Someone with better tools might be able to do a better job but I had to make due with with I had. That said the factory overtravel stop is in a similar place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 You talking about the over-travel stop or the pre-travel? Honestly the answer for both, in my case, is that it was the flattest part of the trigger in both places. I was having trouble getting my drill bits to 'bite' into the metal and any angles just deflected the drill bit even more. So I went with the easiest places to drill that would still be functional. And this is what you get. Someone with better tools might be able to do a better job but I had to make due with with I had. That said the factory overtravel stop is in a similar place. I meant the pre travel. I figured that it would have to be crooked so that it would engage the frame a little better.Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 19 minutes ago, himurax13 said: I meant the pre travel. I figured that it would have to be crooked so that it would engage the frame a little better. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk Yeah that was my initial plan. Like the factory one. This is more of a pre-travel 'stop' rather than a pre-travel adjustment screw but after fiddling with it for about 2 hours I did what I could and got reasonable results. I'm thinking i'm going to add some sort of spacer/collar on the pre-travel screw and use that to take some more pre-travel out. But... beyond that any more effort will be better spent getting the DA/SA parts in there with a BOLO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) I was thinking of doing something similar down the road with the same trigger (and no pre travel adjustment), the BOLO, Titan hammer, and a 14 lb Wolff hammer spring. Edited May 3, 2017 by himurax13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalShooter69 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, himurax13 said: I was thinking of doing something similar down the road with the same trigger (and no pre travel adjustment), the BOLO, Titan hammer, and a 14 lb Wolff hammer spring. Exactly - This would be the proper way to go. Completely remove pre-travel screw, and fit a bolo/titan/(1piece sear if it does not already have one). The previous issue was guys were trying this with the pre-travel screw still in - you ned to remove it, if you use a bolo (in this specific case). Edit: to the original question - this is the mod if using the DA trigger, as well. Edited May 3, 2017 by SoCalShooter69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 If I remember right, I ran an oversized and fitted Disconnector on my CZ Single Action frame with no wings to eliminate the pre-travel. Is that situation the same with the BOLO or do you leave the wing intact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 You can leave the wing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalShooter69 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 25 minutes ago, himurax13 said: If I remember right, I ran an oversized and fitted Disconnector on my CZ Single Action frame with no wings to eliminate the pre-travel. Is that situation the same with the BOLO or do you leave the wing intact? You can run it with the wing. The wing is only for DA action, but won't give you any issue if you run it in SA, with a one piece sear. The stock sear on FPB guns (Tanfos and CZ's) do not allow an oversized disconnector to fit under the sear cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I am not sure what you mean. I have fitted many oversized disconnectors to CZ75's in the past. Is the CGW sear that much different than stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalShooter69 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, himurax13 said: I am not sure what you mean. I have fitted many oversized disconnectors to CZ75's in the past. Is the CGW sear that much different than stock? Sorry, let me clarify - have you fit a Firing Pin Block model CZ75 with a T3? If so, did you replace the FPB lifter with a spacer (pictured below), or install a pre-b sear/cgw sear? Edited May 9, 2017 by SoCalShooter69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Sorry, let me clarify - have you fit a Firing Pin Block model CZ75 with a T3? If so, did you replace the FPB lifter with a spacer (pictured below), or install a pre-b sear/cgw sear? Typically I only use a Type 2 disco with FPB CZ's to keep them legal for production/SSP.Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalShooter69 Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 12 minutes ago, himurax13 said: Typically I only use a Type 2 disco with FPB CZ's to keep them legal for production/SSP. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk The T3 is the "oversized" disco, not the T2. The T3 won't work with the FPB CZ's as I stated earlier. The T2 is drop-in, as the T3 is typically less likely depending on the competency of the person doing the trigger job. It's still smaller than the bolo. I know a Few guys that have gone the bolo route in their CZ ('s) over the T3 and been very happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 The Type 3 will not work with the Firing pin block CZ-75's because the firing pin block and lifter have a longer reset than a regular shadow model. If the firing pin block is removed and the lifter is replaced with a spacer, then a Type 3 can be used to give the same reset that Shadow slide can have. I never even thought of using the BOLO in a CZ. I thought the Tanfoglio Hammer pin was wider than the CZ pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now