Need Some Advice Re: My Smith 625

[ALBY]

In got a great deal on a used 625 that has been modified with some of the miculek internals.

When i got the gun, the hammer strike was so light it would not break factory primers. so i had to turn it up a notch or two.

now the gun has proven unreliable in the two matches in which i tried to shoot it. i zeroed two stages with it in two matches.

in one match, the screw backed out out and the hammer strike kept lightening up. by the time i finished the stage i was 50% misfires for light strikes.

i brought the gun to a local gunsmith who polished up all the internals and ordered me a new screw from smith and wesson. at practice, the screw continued to back out. loctite is working good for now, but the pull is a wee bit heavy and now i don't trust the gun.

next match saw the ejector rod loosen up so much the cylinder would not swing out and caused a wicked jam. i had to bust out the folder to get the gun open.

i am not a gunsmith and have no desire to fiddle with this thing.

i was thinking about shipping it back to s&w or maybe clark custom guns for an ipsc makeover. in the meantime, i bought an sti limited gun and im now losing the desire to shoot this revolver ...

does anyone have any suggestions.

im new to forum. i shoot at the iwla in dallastown pa. this is my third season. im a level 1 ro, c limited 10, d revolver (both meltdowns were classifiers).

[Airedale]

Alby,

This doesn't sound like a major problem.

First, with a trigger job, use Federal primers. Some have had luck with other brands but most wheelgunners will tell you go Federal.

Second, tighten the strain screw and loctite it.

Third, tighten your ejector rod and remember it's left hand threads.

Fourth, Get the Kuhnhausen shop manual for the S&W revolver.

Have fun with your 625. They are (normally) very reliable.

Dave

[Greg in VA]

Sounds like typical revolver problems, don't let it get you down on the gun. Most smiths that put light triggers in revolvers put a set screw in to keep the strain screw from backing out, that way you can dial in your trigger and then set it so it stays put. As far as the ejector rod backing out, put some empty cases in the cylinder and tighten it up, just remember to check it before you go to the match.

Greg

[DougCarden]

If it has Miculek internals, then it should be reliable with Fed primers only, and will not work with factory ammo. Rule of thumb is turn strain screw until you get reliably ignition, then loctite the screw there. If your ejector rod unscrewed it and you beat it open, chances are that you sprung the crane, which will affect your gun. Find a smith or someone that is knowledgable about the gun, possibly the former owner and get some advice on the gun. Worse case scenario, send it to SW. Good luck, DougC

[ALBY]

and you beat it open

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i was nice to it. a revolver guy from mpsa helped me out.

i like revolver people. thats why i bought the gun.

the guy i got it from is a great guy, M class open shooter, and an all around good guy... but he isn't much of a revolversmith according to the guy that did my trigger job.

thanks for the advice guys.

[Carmoney]

I'm gonna part company with my buddy DougC and everybody else who shoots on "Team Loctite." In my view, the best competition revolvers have springs that are set to the correct tension (by replacing, bending, or shaving them) with strain screws that are fully tightened all the way down. Relying on loctite to hold the strain screw in the correct place is an inherently unreliable proposition.

Mike

[dgsmith]

Alby,

This is Dennis the guy that helped you. I can help you square away your revolver.

I have a a friend with all the tools that we need. I do work on my revolvers. You tried my trigger pull. It works with everything except ccI primers.

[mikey357]

...what Carmoney said...the revo should be set up to get the triggerpull/hammerfall required to be 100% reliable with the stain screw BOTTOMED OUT...screwed ALL the way IN...or you WILL have problems down the road...and, at the WORST possible time...ask me how I KNOW....mikey357

[robomanusa]

I done my own trigger job and went thru the not using federal primers bashing on here a few months ago, LOL

I switched to federal primers and not one misfire for light strikes since.

I probably shouldnt have said that.......hehe, state match coming up next week now Im gonna be plagued.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I am another that does not believe in the lock tite for several reasons some of which Carmoney has started.

Screws are made to be fully seated. That is why S&W has screws of different lengths. If you do not reload, you will need to use a heavier spring. (Wolf power rib #1) If you do reload, give the Federal primers a try. You will be happy.

As far as an extractor rod backing out, if you tighten it, make sure there is brass in each chamber.

As for the "K" book, there is a lot of bad info in it and if you are not familiar with the revolver internals, ptoblems may arise.

Looks like the best offer you have right now is from dgsmith.

Good luck, and good shooting.

[spook]

I have seen quite a lot of revolvers who's owners ground down the main spring set screw so they can just seat it all the way and have just the right trigger pull.

I use blue locktite and haven't had a problem with it in two years (ever since I started using it actually). The cool thing about having extra lenght left on the set screw is that you can screw it in further if for some reason the main spring becomes weaker.

But I agree with the rest of the guys here. You have a revolver that is sh!tty to shoot right now, but it's nothing that can be helped. Worst case scenario, you'll need a good smith, some locktite and a new set screw. You'll be back in business in no time

The nice things about revolvers is that once they're set up right, they will run for ever ever

[Jerry V]

A book that I've found more useful than Kuhnhausen's is "Gunsmithing: Pistols & Revolvers" by fellow forum member Patrick Sweeney.

I always have a multibit screwdriver, rebound slide spring tool, extractor rod tool, rebound & main springs in my match bag. It came in handy last Sun. at a Speed Steel match when a fellow revolver shooter brought out his new S&W 620. He struggled with the heavy trigger on the first stage when he was done I offered to put in a lighter rebound spring for him. Five min. & a 13lb rebound spring installed and he finished the match with a respectable time and more importantly he's gonna stay with the 620 instead of his S&W 40SW auto for shooting steel

BTW: the 620 is a very nice revolver, that half lug barrel & 7rd. cylinder makes for a nice steel gun

[ALBY]

thanks for the advice gentlemen. looks like i came to the right place.

dennis, great seeing you today.

im in parkton, so ill pm you and we can get together. we practice on thurdays at the iwla. is that convenient to you ?