Firing Pin Hole

[JD45]

My 1911 has had two major failures in the past year due to the firing pin sticking. Both times, I fired about 250rds, unloaded, dryfired once and the pin stuck. I have traced the trouble to the pin hole, not the spring tunnel. To get it back working you have to remove the FP spring, drop the pin in the hole, add solvent, and use a punch to force it back and forth. Then, I take the pin out, wipe it clean, and do this over and over. Finally, the pin will fall all the way in under its own weight and not stop until it reaches the tapered section.

Does anyone else ever see this happen? And do you clean the actual FP hole often?

[JFD]

I've had this happen twice with my Kimber when it was fairly new. I took out their oversized firing pin and replaced it with a USGI, later a Wilson. Several years later and it has never happened again.

I always shot lead in that gun and would tear down the slide every 600 - 800 rounds. Cleaned the firing pin hole with a pipe cleaner soaked in solvent.

If it were me, I'd get a new firing pin.

[Thomas Moore]

i second jfd with the pipe cleaner, they work well.

[Skywalker]

Cleaned the firing pin hole with a pipe cleaner soaked in solvent.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A .22" bronze brush works better.

[pisgahrifle]

I second the .22 brush. I do the ejector and fring pin ports at the same time, scrubbing them both after I let them soak in Kroil & #9 for a bit. Also make sure you're springs' good and clean before you put pin & spring back in the slide.

[GuildSF4]

You may also want to check that you are not getting any little bits of primer in the piring pin hole, this can cause this. (It is can also be a sign of excessive pressure)

[JFD]

I use the pipe cleaner for the small hole, a Q-Tip for the big hole. Sorry for the highly technical terms...

Seemed like the small hole is where JD45 is having a problem, but I've been known to be wrong.

[JD45]

Yes. The only reason that I posted this was because I have never heard of the small FP hole giving trouble. The main hole or spring tunnel stays clean and never gives any trouble. You would think that cleaning the big hole and keeping it almost dry would take care of any problem with the tiny hole in the breech face. I mean it takes some serious work to free it up again when it sticks. You can't see anything fouling it up by looking at it, and the firing pin and spring always look fine.

The gun is a .45 with 169PF loads, 230gr.RNL and Titegroup. I'm coming close to blaming the powder for some sort of fouling similar to actual welding.

Thank you all for helping.

[bountyhunter]

I found a good way to keep the FP channel clear is to take the slide off and then use some brake cleaner spray (or Gunscrubber if you're rich). Press the plastic tube's tip up to the hole and hose cleaner in until it runs out the slide openings. WEAR EYE PROTECTION (DUH!). I have found this keeps the channel really clean for a very long time between detail cleanings.

[bountyhunter]

Yes. The only reason that I posted this was because I have never heard of the small FP hole giving trouble. The main hole or spring tunnel stays clean and never gives any trouble. You would think that cleaning the big hole and keeping it almost dry would take care of any problem with the tiny hole in the breech face. I mean it takes some serious work to free it up again when it sticks. You can't see anything fouling it up by looking at it, and the firing pin and spring always look fine.

The gun is a .45 with 169PF loads, 230gr.RNL and Titegroup. I'm coming close to blaming the powder for some sort of fouling similar to actual welding.

Thank you all for helping.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Dumb question: anybody think of reaming the hole out a couple of thousandths? Like with a tiny round needle file or something similar?