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Does my Tanfoglio Limited Pro fail the plunk test?

hav3n

By hav3n
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)

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hav3n Looks for Range

hav3n

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Posted (edited)

Here's what I'm running in my Tanfoglio Limited Pro

  • EGD Xtreme Tanfoglio Sear
  • Tanfoglio Optimized Firing Pin Spring
  • Tanfoglio Optimized Hammer Spring 12lb
  • Tanfoglio Optimized Trigger Return Spring - Reduced Power
  • EAA/Tanfoglio Witness Long-Slide 8lb Recoil Spring
  • Tanfoglio Optimized "BOLO" Interrupter
  • EGD Xtreme Titan Hammer
  • EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Reduced Weight Trigger Plunger Springs Set by Henning (Using 18lb)
  • EAA / Tanfoglio Witness Large Frame DA/SA Trigger w/ Over-travel Stop (102014)
  • Pretty decent polish job

Trigger is down to 5 3/4lb DA and 2 3/4lb SA. Not the best but I'm still working on that.

Really happy with it so far and it's been 100% with Federal primers - either Atlanta Arms or Cook Ammunition/

Last week at IDPA I was out of my regular practice ammo so I grabbed a box of 124gr Sellier and Bellot ammo and had this happen...

 

 

 

I've read the forum and know I might need to get my barrel reamed to SAAMI spec? So I made another short video. Does this barrel fail the plunk test?

 

 

 

 

That brings me to my question. S&B primers are harder than federal but they aren't that hard right?

What are my next steps? I'm thinking grab the PD firing pin when it releases for sure. But does my barrel need work too?

 

Thanks guys.

Edited by hav3n
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ryridesmotox Looks for Match

ryridesmotox

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Lol shit... Mine used to do that too. It should fall right out without any effort. Mine now, I can put a round in... Tap it several times with my hand to try and stick it in the chamber, and it will still come right out. Send it to Bevin Grams to have it reamed out.

Also, the s&b primers may have been a bit hard for the 12lbs hammer spring. That's just my opinion though. They are definitely harder than federals and Winchester 

I'm wondering why you pull is so much higher than mine. I run a 14lbs PD hammer spring and am getting a 5lbs 5oz (lyman gauge) DA pull. Might try to polish some more.

EDIT: You should have seen my first match... It was WORSE than your run in my first stage... I was light striking like a mofo. Clipped my wolf firing pin spring. Got better. Clipped it more... Little better. Put stock pin back in (was running a henning) even better. But was still getting many light strikes... Fast forward a few months... No light strikes, 14lbs hammer spring, original firing pin, PD springs, runs like a scalded cat.

Edited by ryridesmotox
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hav3n Looks for Range

hav3n

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I'm going to stick with the current springs. 

Run exclusively federal primers. My Ammo sponsor and I didn't connect this month to get my supply of all federal primed stuff so that's normally not an issue. 

 

Polish a bit more as I too think I can lower the pull with these springs but every Tanfo is different. 

 

Wait on the PD firing pin. 

 

And also get the barrel reamed. That does seem to be the consensus that it could use it right?

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Kraj Looks for Target

Kraj

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Posted (edited)

If the ammo is feeding I would worry about reading the barrel. All tanfolios require loading shorter, buts it's not a issue if you load shorter. S&b are really hard, especially compared to federals. If yoir not going to switch Springs don't use ammo with S&b primers

Edited by Kraj
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MemphisMechanic Back From the Dead

MemphisMechanic

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What ARy is saying is that the plunger spring is a factor in how far back the hammer travels in DA. Factory plunger spring = pretty much the same trigger pull and a harder hitting hammer.

You need to do the same things I do:

Send your barrel to Bevin Grams. Mine is on the way back and I can't recommend him enough. Polite, answers the phone and/or calls you back. I had him cut mine deeper than most: I sent a dummy of my least forgiving round (a 135fr with an ogive that sucks for Tanfos) loaded at 1.150" and don't expect any more problems.

Polish like a mad demon. All of it. Twice.

Reinstall the factory plunger spring.

Run a 14lb spring if you want to dance with S&B primers from time to time. With a full polishing it should light pretty much anything.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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johnbu Calls Shots

johnbu

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^^ what they said.

I've had really soft s&b primers in the past, but everything recent has been difficult to pop. Actually, right now Wolf primers are popping easier than s&b.  The other thing is to listen to ARy and do what he said.  He will get your gun running the best it can.

 

 

 

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MemphisMechanic Back From the Dead

MemphisMechanic

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One of the things my Stock 3 has definitely done? Really made me want a 1050 with its swaging and fixed-depth priming even more.

The 650 with range-pickup brass isn't ideal. That's for sure. I'm going to look at the machine when I get home and see if loading 30,000 rounds has caused the priming ram to somehow back out slightly.

I'm tempted to see if the machine shop at work can make one out of tool steel that's +.020" or something along those lines.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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bigbob21 Finally read the FAQs

bigbob21

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The 650 priming ram can be adjusted... it can be screwed in and out and adjusted down with a small Allen key... mine backs out all the time causing high primers... have to hand tighten after every 100 rounds or so.
Maybe I need to locktite it down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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MemphisMechanic Back From the Dead

MemphisMechanic

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, bigbob21 said:

The 650 priming ram can be adjusted... it can be screwed in and out and adjusted down with a small Allen key... mine backs out all the time causing high primers... have to hand tighten after every 100 rounds or so.
Maybe I need to locktite it down?

Interesting. I'm around 30,000 rounds into my 650's 8 year life and I've never once touched the priming assembly.

(Which is likely the entire source of the problem)

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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ryridesmotox Looks for Match

ryridesmotox

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I'll probably "fabricate" a budget for a 1050 before I go to that kind of trouble, but I do get your point. The 650 really should have adjustable seating depth.

..Then sell blood and plasma to make a Mark 7 happen...

Other than not having to pull the handle... The mark7 seems meh... You still have to feed primers, projectiles, and cartridges into all the hoppers and shit. And besides, the money to get a setup running would be a ton of ammo. If it's taken you 8 years to shoot 30k rounds... Probably not worth it. Now... If you're Jerry Miculek and you shoot like half a million rounds a year, then yea. Do it rofl... Hell, the guy used a cement mixer to tumble brass... That is some gangster shit

Edited by ryridesmotox
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