JohnnyRyder Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Good evening all together. Is the Eric Grauffel OEM-part called sear-lever-long hardened throughout, or just surface hardened? If you check the picture below, it seems to be clear (i guess), that the angle of the sear (touching the hooks of the titan-hammer) is not sharp enough, so that the hammer always falls back into the half-cocked-positon, if i cycle the slide of my gun (Tanfoglio Stock2 - small-frame). Is it possible to work this sear, to file the necessary angle in order to make it work dependably? Thanks a lot in advance!!! Best regards Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 The Xtreme sear is only surface hardened, per Eric Grauffel. I'm not familiar enough with the action of the gun to tell you what needs fitted, but something needs changed which isn't that angle. Hopefully Johnbu or one of the other Tanfo Whisperers will be along shortly to help explain possible causes. The BOLO, Titan and Xtreme sear dropped into my Stock III with absolutely no modifications other than fitting the sear leg to the safety, so I can't speak to the fitting you need to do. Can you give us a complete parts list of what's in the gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 1. Check your over travel screw. 2. If not the culprit, you'll need to either buy a new hammer, or take a file and reestablish a suitable shelf, ie. hammer hooks profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I don't intend to sound rude, but I assume everything is assembled correctly, clean and lubricated. Yes? if you thumb the hammer back, does it stick or fall to 1/2 cock? the hammer goes back and touches the beaver tail.? is this a used, new or just new to you gun? Not sure what all has been done to it and the parts installed. I agree with Ridesmotox, the trigger screw should be removed to see if it works. My guns have empty screw holes. The amount of OT removed isn't worth the bother. (To me) Can you provide pictures of the sear face that interacts with the hammer? I want to see if it's rounded. Also the hammer hooks. If it's a used gun, parts may be worn or improperly installed / tuned. Again, I agree filing the hammer hooks deeper is the better option. But if the sear face was already filed... it will wear quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 (edited) Hello everybody, thanks a lot for your answers. I have some news for you. As you can see on the picture, it´s a brand new titan-hammer and also a brand new OEM-sear-lever-LONG. It´s clearly visible, that the angle of the sear can fit in no way to the hooks of the hammer, without some fitting. That is why i asked, if somebody knows, if the sear-LONG is hardened throughout, because that would make sense to me. I also asked Eric Grauffel and he told me today, that the sear-LONG(EG prefers it!) needs some proper adjustment, to make it fit to the Titan- or the Xtreme-Delta-hammer... so i gues, this means, that the sear-LONG is hardened throughout. So i stoned it to the angle that i think should be right for my old Delta-hammer and now it seems to work good enough (if i cycle the slide by hand each test works). Before i built in the new 1-piece-sear, there was the original 2-piece-sear for 16.000 round in action with some snappy factory loads with 9x19 Geco 124 grain FMJ (has 135 - 145-factor... a little bit too much for IPSC-production) and i never had even one single issue with this stock2 small-frame. It also has the Xtreme-firing-pin - medium springs for the firing-pin and the hammer, also did some polishing for the right parts... i really love this gun!!! Edited November 28, 2016 by JohnnyRyder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 @johnbu Posted by johnbu: "Can you provide pictures of the sear face that interacts with the hammer? I want to see if it's rounded. Also the hammer hooks. If it's a used gun, parts may be worn or improperly installed / tuned. Again, I agree filing the hammer hooks deeper is the better option. But if the sear face was already filed... it will wear quickly." I was told, that you never should stone/file just surface-hardened parts. I was also told, that the EGD-hammers (Titan- and Xtreme-delta-hammer) and also the OEM-parts sear-regular and the 2-piece-sear and the Xtreme-parts sear regular and the 2-piece-sear ar all just surface-hardened. If you file them, then your gun will work just fine for maybe 500-1000 shots and then some issues could happen. Only the OEM-part sear-long seems to be hardened throughout and has to be fitted/stoned in order to fit the hammer-hooks. Please correct me, if you are really sure, that i am wrong... means, if you already filed some hammer-hooks and after that you made 5000 or more shots and your gun still work fine, that should be the proof. ;D) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 @MemphisMechanic Fitting the safety-leg of the sear has to be done... no question about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 The "long" sear is not a common part over here. if EG himself said it needs fitting ... that's good enough for me. it sounds like you've done everything right! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Ahh yes. I assumed you meant the drop in 1-piece extreme sear. I didn't even know there was a "long" sear until now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 Can somebody tell me, whether the diameter of the hammer-strut-pin and the hammer-interruptor-pin is identical or not? I don´t want to take the gun apart to measure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Wait, what is the difference between the long and regular sear levers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 (edited) It needs some proper fitting (angle touching the hammer-hooks) and also the safety-leg touching the safety. The trigger-pull should be a bit smoother, the SA and the reset a bit better, than the regular sear, but you have to know exactely, what and how to do, to make it fit... and it seems to be hardened throughout... Eric Grauffel prefers it over the sear-regular. Edited November 28, 2016 by JohnnyRyder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 They are the same. 4 hours ago, JohnnyRyder said: Can somebody tell me, whether the diameter of the hammer-strut-pin and the hammer-interruptor-pin is identical or not? I don´t want to take the gun apart to measure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyRyder Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 (edited) @ Johnbu Thanks a lot. But should the pin in the interruptor move not as easy as the pin does in the hammer-strut? Because the diameter of the bore in the interruptor (OEM-part for 1-piece-sear from EGD) is slightly smaller, than the bore in the hammer-strut. I can put in the new pin into the hammer-strut just by hand with no effort at all, but into the interruptor i have to hit the pin in with the use of a hammer. I think (also the use of a new pin) the interruptor should move almost as free/easy on the hammer, as the hammer-strut does... am i right or wrong? Thanks for your help in advance!!! Edited November 29, 2016 by JohnnyRyder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 The pin is snug in the hammer, but loose on the interruptor. The BOLO interruptor uses an undersized pin that will fall out if tipped over!. That was intentional and helps ensure reset with the near zero motion. Within reason, the looseness is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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