What Spare Sig Parts?

[saibot]

After my first range session with my new P320 today, I'm pretty sure I'm going to run it this next season for Production. So what parts should I have on hand? I keep a little parts kit in my range bag for every pistol type I have in case something breaks, I have what I need with me to get back in the game. But being totally new to the platform I have no idea what I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[R34PER]

I would suggest either a caliber exchange kit of the same caliber/size or a second gun. That way you can swap parts. If the frame/mag release gets messed up then you can swap it. If the slide/barrel/recoil spring/guide rod get messed up you can swap it. If the fire control unit gets messed up you can swap it. I think you get where I'm going with it. The interchangeablity is one of the beauties of the P320.

[saibot]

I would suggest either a caliber exchange kit of the same caliber/size or a second gun. That way you can swap parts. If the frame/mag release gets messed up then you can swap it. If the slide/barrel/recoil spring/guide rod get messed up you can swap it. If the fire control unit gets messed up you can swap it. I think you get where I'm going with it. The interchangeablity is one of the beauties of the P320.

Ya, a second gun would be great, but I was thinking more along the lines of the little fiddley parts that break, wear out, or are easily lost.

[Gooldylocks]

Giving up on the Glock? and no open??

[saibot]

Giving up on the Glock? and no open??

Taking a break from Open since it was back at STI and I didn't have a spare. The Glock is just too big for my hands and had to compromise recoil control or trigger control. The small grip module of the Sig fits so much better and allows me to shoot better and control recoil dramatically better. Barring any surprises I think it'll replace my G34s.

[Gooldylocks]

Giving up on the Glock? and no open??

Taking a break from Open since it was back at STI and I didn't have a spare. The Glock is just too big for my hands and had to compromise recoil control or trigger control. The small grip module of the Sig fits so much better and allows me to shoot better and control recoil dramatically better. Barring any surprises I think it'll replace my G34s.

Nice. I really like the Sig. The trigger is quite good in all of them I have messed with so far. I hear they have a competition model coming down the pipe (SHOT 2016?) that I might have to take a look at, it's either that or a CZ I think. But I am gonna be sticking with open at least through this season, so we will see what happens after that. Anyway, sorry for the thread jack! You may now return to your regularly scheduled thread.

[usa259]

I'm not a competitor yet... Having taken my 320 apart for cleaning, the little pin on the left hand side of the fire control group fell out once. It landed where it was easy to notice and find. Not sure what it does, I just put it back...

[R34PER]

It stops the trigger from continuing to move reward after the shot breaks.

[alma]

I'm not a competitor yet... Having taken my 320 apart for cleaning, the little pin on the left hand side of the fire control group fell out once. It landed where it was easy to notice and find. Not sure what it does, I just put it back...

Thankfully the design on that pin has changed so in the newest ones coming from the factory it is staked and will not fall out on you. Presently it's only something you have to watch out for when removing the FCU from the grip. I actually prefer the non-staked pin.

[alma]

After my first range session with my new P320 today, I'm pretty sure I'm going to run it this next season for Production. So what parts should I have on hand? I keep a little parts kit in my range bag for every pistol type I have in case something breaks, I have what I need with me to get back in the game. But being totally new to the platform I have no idea what I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Extra parts are still hard to come by but you might be able to call SIG and get some ordered.

Brownells now sells trigger return springs and I would get a couple of those. When disassembling are reassembling the FCU those springs can be pretty tricky.

If you aren't careful you can deform them when reassembling so it's a good idea to have one or two available if you are the type of person who wants to completely disassemble frequently.

There are several little tiny safety and sear springs that would be nice to have spares of just in the event that you lose one when the gun is torn down.

After about 15,000 rounds I have broken the small striker return spring. I assume a lot of dry fire contributed to that. It didn't affect the function of the gun when it broke and I didn't notice until I tore it down all the way and saw that it came out in two little pieces. I have also replaced an extractor but I wouldn't worry about that unless your ejection starts to become inconsistent.

For recoil springs I use an aftermarket guide rod so that the recoil spring can be replaced using common 1911 style. So far the P320 has held up very well to abuse.

Edited December 8, 2015 by alma

[saibot]

After my first range session with my new P320 today, I'm pretty sure I'm going to run it this next season for Production. So what parts should I have on hand? I keep a little parts kit in my range bag for every pistol type I have in case something breaks, I have what I need with me to get back in the game. But being totally new to the platform I have no idea what I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Extra parts are still hard to come by but you might be able to call SIG and get some ordered.

Brownells now sells trigger return springs and I would get a couple of those. When disassembling are reassembling the FCU those springs can be pretty tricky.

If you aren't careful you can deform them when reassembling so it's a good idea to have one or two available if you are the type of person who wants to completely disassemble frequently.

There are several little tiny safety and sear springs that would be nice to have spares of just in the event that you lose one when the gun is torn down.

After about 15,000 rounds I have broken the small striker return spring. I assume a lot of dry fire contributed to that. It didn't affect the function of the gun when it broke and I didn't notice until I tore it down all the way and saw that it came out in two little pieces. I have also replaced an extractor but I wouldn't worry about that unless your ejection starts to become inconsistent.

For recoil springs I use an aftermarket guide rod so that the recoil spring can be replaced using common 1911 style. So far the P320 has held up very well to abuse.

Alma, thanks for the info! I ordered what I could from Brownells to have some spares along with me, but might have to call Sig to get everything I want. And I agree, that trigger return spring is one tricky little thing to get in/out without damaging it. Do you know if there is a special tool that makes getting that in/out easier?

Also, can you use a 1911 spring on the factory guide rod, assuming I can get it apart?

Thanks!

[alma]

Alma, thanks for the info! I ordered what I could from Brownells to have some spares along with me, but might have to call Sig to get everything I want. And I agree, that trigger return spring is one tricky little thing to get in/out without damaging it. Do you know if there is a special tool that makes getting that in/out easier?

Also, can you use a 1911 spring on the factory guide rod, assuming I can get it apart?

Thanks!

Out isn't too bad. Just turn the FCU over, push down and forward on the spring and use a pick or something to unhook it.

Getting it back in I have found needle nose plyers to be a must. I think I have stumbled on a better way to get it back in as well that involves unhooking the rear leg of the trigger bar to get the spring in place. It's hard to explain but I will try to get it on video in the next couple of days.

The internal diameter of springs might make a difference. I guess you can try putting a stock 1911 spring on. To remove the factory spring just hook the end over the captured wing piece and start screwing.

I would, however, recommend just buying a new guide rod from Springer Precision or Gray Guns. They are thicker too so they add another .5oz of weight over the factory guide rod alone.

[saibot]

Alma, thanks for the info! I ordered what I could from Brownells to have some spares along with me, but might have to call Sig to get everything I want. And I agree, that trigger return spring is one tricky little thing to get in/out without damaging it. Do you know if there is a special tool that makes getting that in/out easier?

Also, can you use a 1911 spring on the factory guide rod, assuming I can get it apart?

Thanks!

Out isn't too bad. Just turn the FCU over, push down and forward on the spring and use a pick or something to unhook it.

Getting it back in I have found needle nose plyers to be a must. I think I have stumbled on a better way to get it back in as well that involves unhooking the rear leg of the trigger bar to get the spring in place. It's hard to explain but I will try to get it on video in the next couple of days.

The internal diameter of springs might make a difference. I guess you can try putting a stock 1911 spring on. To remove the factory spring just hook the end over the captured wing piece and start screwing.

I would, however, recommend just buying a new guide rod from Springer Precision or Gray Guns. They are thicker too so they add another .5oz of weight over the factory guide rod alone.

Looking forward to the video!

I plan on sending my 320 off to the smith to have all of the work done and new parts like the guide rod, sites, etc. I'm just having too much fun with it and don't want to let it go. The stock sights were waaaay off so I ground down the rear quite a bit, filled the dots with epoxy and repainted. I cut a channel down the center of the front sight, hogged off the sides, put in a piece of FO, filled the top with epoxy and painted, all so I could use it now! The stock trigger is heavy, but very nice. I pulled it apart and polished the friction points which knocked off a little over a pound. Again, the smith will have his time with it at some point, but I want to use it now. I ordered some Dawson sights for it, but won't have them until next week. I ordered two different fronts/rears to see what's going to work best on it. I'll start a new thread at some point on the sights.

Thanks for the info!!!!

[R34PER]

I can't wait to see that video! When I replaced the factory trigger with the Apex flat trigger it was a huge PITA! I think I bruised the tip of my index finger while I was fighting with it, because it was sore for days afterward. I didn't have a pair of needle nose handy, but hopefully Mrs. Santa will put a Leatherman Wave in my stocking this year.

[alma]

As requested:

[R34PER]

Excellent video! Thanks for making it. That's much easier than the way I did it. I used the Apex installation video method. I also didn't use pliers. My fingers were sore for a week.