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K-frame hand


stardust tommy

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what are the differences between the available hands for a K-frame? (non floating models)

I have some -5 hands and they don't seem to work in a mod 13-2. they cam in more than the original hand ( they stick out a mm into the frame)

can I weld up the front part of a -5 hand and fit it to the revo?

or just remove some material from the tip of the hand?

gr T

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Using calipers, measure from the pivot pin to the top of the hand and get the top parallel with the caliper jaw. The measurements will vary a little, depending on technique. It should be something close to this - K .935, L .990, N 1.070.

Don't worry about how far the hand sticks out of the frame, as that is self regulating because it can only go to the bottom of the ratchet base when the gun is in use. If you trim it back it may be too short to time properly.

Edit to add - Thanks for the good pics.

Edited by Toolguy
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If I meassure the distance it is close to .990... but I think I messure from the pin where the spring pushes against.

If I measure a K frame hand this way it is close to .930

so I tkink I have a lot of L frame hands :-), if you put a K next to a L frame hand you can see the difference... in pic 2 there is no difference :-)

If a good picture is the way to get good advise I can post a lot of good pictures!

Big thanks for the good advise

gr Tom

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I want my revolver to time perfectly with both right and left hand... in PPC we shoot both hands, a lot of used revolvers time perfect with right hand shooting but not when shooting left hand.

seems like the hand gets bent 1 way by shooting almost always righthanded, a new hand solved my problem with this 686

the problem with a L frame hand in a K frame is that the cilinder wants to start turning before the cilinder lock is pulled down by the trigger...

gr T

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I want my revolver to time perfectly with both right and left hand... in PPC we shoot both hands, a lot of used revolvers time perfect with right hand shooting but not when shooting left hand.

seems like the hand gets bent 1 way by shooting almost always righthanded, a new hand solved my problem with this 686

gr T

The hand doesn't actually bend, but may put uneven wear on the hand window in the frame, creating the difference from right to left. It's almost impossible to bend a hand without applying heat with a torch.

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The pin can bend. This is what you're looking for when you check the "sing".

Pull the trigger just enough to drop the cylinder stop and spin the cylinder. You should hear the hand ratcheting over the extractor. All this shows is that the hand can freely move in its slot. You adjust sing by bending the pivot pin.

There is left and right sing, and they are often different. If you don't pull the trigger straight back sometimes the hand will bind in its slot. This can be different for left and right handed shooters as we abuse the triggers in different directions. Check the sing with the trigger pushed to either side, it's difficult to make it perfect.

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Power trigger shims can help make the right and left hand timing closer by reducing lateral movement in the trigger. Experiment with which side of the trigger you put the shim(s) on. Too many and the trigger won't return. Trying to get them identical is probably just going to lead to frustration.

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