1050, dies and powder feeder moving on their own?

[slavex]

So I'm a nice guy, I let my neighbor and good friend use my press while I am gone on long trips, he knows how to use my 1050 almost as well as I do, however on this last trip, something weird happened. I had purchased a new powder measure body recently to replace one I had broken (long dumb story), and once mounted it discovered the flare on the cases while getting powder, was way too much. So adjusted that, at the same time I made a point of adjusting all the other dies, making sure everything was as perfect as possible, cleaning them all etc. I then ran 5000 rounds in one sitting, with zero issues, and the ammo performed great in practice over the next couple of weeks. However, whilst I was over in Europe for 9 weeks my friend came over to water my gardens and load on the press and he ran into some issues. Using my brass (he cleans his and just adds to my buckets) he immediately had issues with so much flare it was splitting cases. Apparently the lock nut on the powder drop was loose, and needed to be tightened, but also the drop was too low and causing the super flare. So he backed that off and tightened it down. Then the Lee FCD was also loose, so much so, it was moving during the crimp process, so he tightened i up as it's lock nut had also come loose. He then loaded a few thousand rounds and was done. He sent me a text telling me all the issues he had and I was puzzled.

So, I come home Tuesday night and check out my press, it's still flaring too much, the FCD needs actually be completely reset and it was almost impossible to undo the lock nut. I had to turn the powder measure drop tube one complete revolution counter clockwise to get the flare right as well.
So, what the hell? Do I have a gremlin that went in and loosened stuff? I cannot see how, even with a loose nut, the powder measure drop could turn during loading and increase flare, when trying to turn it by hand, I have to remove the powder measure to get it to move. Same goes the Lee Die, it's got an O'ring on it that keeps it tight and locked to the press.

I am totally mystified about this, I seriously think someone has keys to my house that I don't know about, and an alarm code, and is messing with my setup. Because none of it makes sense to me.

Any ideas guys, have any of you experienced similar?

[Beastly]

I've had some lock nuts on my 1050 get loose. On more than one occasion the flare unexpectedly become too little, and I start noticing lead shavings at the case mouth (I'm loading coated bullets).

I starting using a sharpie to create 'index marks' on the press/locknut now so I can quickly visually inspect for changes, plus I manually test the lock nuts at the start of every session and any time I get suspicious something changed.

Other locknuts have come loose, the powder die seems to be the worst offender though.

[JatCarver]

Use a sharpie and mark your dies and keep a eye on them while loading.

[Ming the Merciless]

He's your friend.....BUT, since he's the only variable in the equation......I suspect he may have changed the adjustments on your press. Just sayin' "trust, but verify!"

I Junked all the Dillon lock nuts because the cheesy original Dillon wrench bent the first time I used it, so I switched to split ring set screw type lock nuts like the Lyman and haven't had a problem with loose nuts since then. Yeah, yeah, I know I said "loose nuts".

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/402579/lyman-split-lock-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread

[RonofVa]

I mark my dies with a sharpie too, that way I can spot if any of them begin to move.

A cotton swab and some acetone will take it off in a few seconds.

[gigs]

On my motor presses the nuts do get loose sometimes. I still use the Dillon style nuts, but I got a 1 inch deep socket so I can get them tight easily and loosen them easily without busting my knuckles any more.

The GSI wrench is nice as well, but the socket makes it easy on the dies that aren't really tall.

[Steve Moneypenny]

I have had nuts get loose on all of my dillons, Set screw ring time IMO. i always bought a set of the rings with a set screw so that my dies were repeatable and were not going to move once set.

[slavex]

thanks guys, I have Sharpie markings on the crimp die, and the seating die is a micrometer Redding one, so the only one not marked is the powder one.

I've readjusted everything and chrono'd some loads today, looks like things are good to go. I just don't understand how the powder measure/belling station could move so much, at least a full turn down.

[jmorris]

If the measure was clamped tight on the die, it could not have rotated a full revolution, even if you didn't have a nut on it. The fail safe rod would have bound up with just a few degrees of misalignment and the primer tube shroud would have prevented much more than a quarter turn.

That's a station I generally don't bother making witness marks on, the other being the PC.

Edited July 21, 2015 by jmorris

[Boxerglocker]

After setting my dies and final torque with a an actual torque wrench. I stripe each nut with inspectors anti-sabotage putty http://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool-Supply-Torque-Seal/dp/B005VR212M. If the nut loosens even the slightest bit the stripe will crack/ break. Instant visual indicator. Before switching over to loading 9mm on the S1050, I used my XL650. I did the same with my dies on that tool head and never touched them for years.

Edited July 21, 2015 by Boxerglocker

[slavex]

jmorris, that was my beliefe too regarding the powder measure die, but somehow......

Boxerglocker, thank you so much for that link, I've never seen a product like that, but I now have some on order, it will work for a variety of things around my house! That's awesome.

I think I am going to install a wee little spy camera down there and see what happens the next time I go away for an extended period of time.

[jmorris]

Check your measure and make sure the plastic bushing is still there.