2 Wolf Spring Kits installed

[aandabooks]

Just got done putting Wolf Spring Kits in my 625 and 66 Combat Magnum. Went with the 13lb spring and tightened the mainspring all the way down. Watched Jerry's video on Youtube and the most difficult part was getting the side plate back on.

Made a huge difference in the trigger weights. Now I'm a little concerned about reliable ignition. I run a mix of primers and really don't want to be totally reliant on getting Federals. I'm going to shoot both guns tomorrow morning and see how it goes.

If the CCI and Tulas that I have now won't set off with the 13lb spring how much difference will changing to the 15lb make? And, does anyone know the weight of the factory springs?

[bountyhunter]

Made a huge difference in the trigger weights. Now I'm a little concerned about reliable ignition.

Properly installed, and with a good strain screw, you should be firing probably 99% of the ammo around. Very rare to have misfires, but the Wolff ribbed mainspring does taper the end of the strain screw (over time) turning the screw in and out. The shorter screw length eventually reduces spring force.

If the CCI and Tulas that I have now won't set off with the 13lb spring how much difference will changing to the 15lb make?

I think you are confusing the rebound slide spring with the mainspring? The RB spring does not affect ignition at all.

[PatJones]

Tuned revolvers are best used with federal primers, you can shoot the harder stuff in your bottom feeders.

Edited for spelling.

Edited February 22, 2015 by PatJones

[aandabooks]

Just got back from testing. Out of a cylinder of 6 it was setting off 2 on both guns. Either going tohave to put the original mainsprings back or load up some Federal primer stuff. Love the feel of the trigger pull but hammer is just not coming forward fast enough.

[granderojo]

I'd try an extended firing pin, before you go to all that trouble. Don't dry fire w/out dummies after installation.

[alecmc]

You could always bob/cut down the hammer too, see if that does anything

Edited February 22, 2015 by alecmc

[bountyhunter]

Just got back from testing. Out of a cylinder of 6 it was setting off 2 on both guns. Either going tohave to put the original mainsprings back or load up some Federal primer stuff. Love the feel of the trigger pull but hammer is just not coming forward fast enough.

Did somebody cut down the strain screw? The wolff RP mainsprings typically are designed to work very well but you have to have a full size strain screw. People often file the end to reduce trigger pull weight.

[aandabooks]

Just got back from testing. Out of a cylinder of 6 it was setting off 2 on both guns. Either going tohave to put the original mainsprings back or load up some Federal primer stuff. Love the feel of the trigger pull but hammer is just not coming forward fast enough.

Did somebody cut down the strain screw? The wolff RP mainsprings typically are designed to work very well but you have to have a full size strain screw. People often file the end to reduce trigger pull weight.

Not that I'm aware of.

[aandabooks]

You could always bob/cut down the hammer too, see if that does anything

I think I'd rather leave the hammer alone. I don't want to turn the revolver into a DA only. I like to be able to shoot SA if I want to.

[PatJones]

I don't care for the wolff springs. In my experience a recontoured factory spring is more reliable.

[bountyhunter]

I don't care for the wolff springs. In my experience a recontoured factory spring is more reliable.

+1 I just bend the standard spring. You can always bend it back if you get stubborn primers.

[alecmc]

If the screw is all the way bottomed out and your still not having enough main spring tension you could try getting a longer screw.

The wolff main springs have a rib that runs down the center of the spring where the strain screw makes contact, effectively making the contact point further away.

Alot of guys replace the strain screw with a basic allen key screw, i think it's either 10-24 screw or 10-32, i forget.

another option would be to toss the wolff spring in your parts bin and modify the factory spring, or pick up the Jerry M " Bang Inc " spring kit.

Edited February 23, 2015 by alecmc

[aandabooks]

I don't care for the wolff springs. In my experience a recontoured factory spring is more reliable.

+1 I just bend the standard spring. You can always bend it back if you get stubborn primers.

I take it you just put more bend in the spring thus making the spring shorter.

[PatJones]

Look at the picture of the Miculek spring kit on his website. See the slight bend at the top of the mainspring? I bend it down like that about 20 to 30 degrees. Just enough to shorten the spring and prevent knuckling when the strain screw is shortened.

[aandabooks]

Went to the hardware store bought some 8-32 3/8" and 1/2" SS screws. The stock measurement is 11/32". I'm going to try the 3/8" first and prime some brass and take them out in the garage and test for function.

I'll look into how Miculek has his springs bent. I want to maintain the lightest trigger pull but 100% ignition is a must.

[bountyhunter]

I don't care for the wolff springs. In my experience a recontoured factory spring is more reliable.

+1 I just bend the standard spring. You can always bend it back if you get stubborn primers.

I take it you just put more bend in the spring thus making the spring shorter.

Correct. More curve = less spring force, flatter spring is more force. I use a mandrel type bend so it doesn't "edge" the bend you want a gradual curve.

I usually "center" the bend point about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom, but Jerry seems to like to put a more severe bend higher up the spring. I'm sure either way would work.

Edited February 23, 2015 by bountyhunter

[PatJones]

I bend the whole spring into an smooth arch for a carry-type trigger tune where the trigger pull will be left at 9 lbs or more. There is a limitation to how far you can take this type of bend.

For a competition trigger pull you need to shorten the strain screw or at least LocTite it in a partially unscrewed position, this makes the spring straighter and longer. The type of abrupt bend you see on Jerry's springs simply serves to shorten the spring so that knuckling doesn't occur when the strain screw is shortened. You still need to tune it with a slight arch.

[aandabooks]

So far I've had no luck with the Wolff springs. I put the factory springs back in and bent them slightly. Strain screw is all the way in. I've got extended firing pins coming for both guns. I'll get those installed and then try the Wolff springs. Might also be looking into finding some Federal primers. I've got a bunch ammo already loaded to go through first.

[bountyhunter]

So far I've had no luck with the Wolff springs. I put the factory springs back in and bent them slightly. Strain screw is all the way in. I've got extended firing pins coming for both guns. I'll get those installed and then try the Wolff springs. Might also be looking into finding some Federal primers. I've got a bunch ammo already loaded to go through first.

First thing to do with light strike misfires is replace the strain screws. Even a slight reduction in length can cause misfires. I couldn't count how many I have seen that have had their tips shaved and they do shorten up in time. The end "mushrooms" a bit.

I would definitely put in new screws before extended firing pins.

Edited February 24, 2015 by bountyhunter

[aandabooks]

So far I've had no luck with the Wolff springs. I put the factory springs back in and bent them slightly. Strain screw is all the way in. I've got extended firing pins coming for both guns. I'll get those installed and then try the Wolff springs. Might also be looking into finding some Federal primers. I've got a bunch ammo already loaded to go through first.

First thing to do with light strike misfires is replace the strain screws. Even a slight reduction in length can cause misfires. I couldn't count how many I have seen that have had their tips shaved and they do shorten up in time. The end "mushrooms" a bit.

I would definitely put in new screws before extended firing pins.

Thing is both revolvers are all but new. The 625 is a -10 and was manufactured just over a year ago. The 66 I bought new the other day. The tips of both screws have no wear on them.

[PatJones]

I have worked on some of the guns that come from the factory with the wolff springs installed. If memory serves, the strain screw on these models is a little bit longer than standard. New strain screws are usually a bit long, so new screws can help.

[Toolguy]

When I'm doing springs I weigh the hammer pull with a trigger pull gage. If you pull the hammer back and hook the gage under the part where it jogs in, you can pull the gage till the hook comes off the frame and take a reading. For Federal primers 48 oz. will fire all of them. On some guns/springs you can go down to 44 oz. or less in a few cases. To fire all kinds of primers you will need around 56 to 60 oz.

If you are working on an older gun with a hammer nose you can hook it under that, but then you will have a lower set of numbers, so I just do them all the same way.

This gives you a starting point when tensioning the spring and a way to tell whether you are going up or down in hammer force. It may be a good idea to write the numbers down when you find what works so you can go back to that at a later time if you change springs or have to take the spring out to work on something. Every spring is a little different and every gun is a little different. On my match guns I use a #8-32 x 1/2 long setscrew with blue loctite. On my carry guns I keep the stock strain screw.

Edited February 24, 2015 by Toolguy

[Carmoney]

. . . or at least LocTite it in a partially unscrewed position . . . .

This is the point in the discussion where I always say you should adjust the length of the strain screw so that the screw can be completely bottomed out rather than count on loctite to hold the strain screw in place.

The usual suspects will then jump in and say it's OK to rely on loctite because they've always done that, and it's never been a problem in the past.

Then I respond by saying it's only a matter of time, and sooner or later the loctite will fail and the screw will move.

By the end of the discussion, I usually mention that anyone who is competing against me is more than welcome to ignore my advice.

There--look at all the keystrokes I saved everybody!

Next topic, please.

[PatJones]

I'm a realist. I know they're just gonna glue it anyway so I don't argue.

[aandabooks]

Put the Wolff spring back in. Turned down the head on some SS screws. Put Federal primers in a few cases and with the 3/8" screws I didn't turn the all the way in to fire the primers. Looks like I'm going to be making up a bunch of revolver only ammo with the Fed primers.